Corrosion resistance : Double cut, or satin?

FoxholeAtheist

FoxholeAtheist

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Apr 7, 2003
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I think the thread title pretty much says it all: What's more corrosion resistant/easy to care for, a double-cut finish, or a satin finish? I'm contemplating getting an AD for EDC, and will (some time in the distant future) hopefully be spending time around salt water. My thinking is that the satin finish wouldn't have as many small spaces for water to sit and do it's evil work, but I'm just guessing. I would prefer a coated blade, but the Company store only has these two blade finishes for an AD, so that's what I'd most likely have to choose from.

So, thoughts?
 
If I was working around saltwater I'd wait for the coating. However, satin or DC shouldn't be too bad, and I'd prefer double cut. According to Busse, DC blades are brought to satin first and then finely ceramic peened, actually making it harder for water to do it's dirty work.
 
What exactly is "Double Cut"? It looked like it was a coating.

Sorry, still a bit of a Busse newbie.
 
When doublecut first came out thereJerry gave a detailed explanation of it. IIRC doblecut seals the blade more than satin which would make it slightly better for the elements. Although I image a coated blade would still be far superior.
 
double cut = bead blasting

except that with busse's bead blasting, a lot of extra care is done to get it perfect across the flat, and as smooth as possible (multiple blast passes)

the reason i like satin is that i can take sand paper to it and not worry about the finish... but i do weird things to my busse's :(
 
Double cut is a ceramic ball peen bead blast, which 'peens' the finish on a microscopic level as opposed to a bead blast with an abrasive media, which tears up the surface and increases the surface area massively for corrosion.
 
both Satin and double cut finishes leaves the blade "naked", it would seem that they would both corrode at the same rate :confused: :confused:
 
satin finish is in effect a set of uniform scratches on the surface of the blade. the only way to remove these scratches is to bring it to a true mirror polish.

bead blasting is a set of micro dots, rather then scratches, formed by tiny beads of glass or ceramic bouncing off of it.

the tiny bead dots will tend to be a lot smaller then the scratches in a satin finish, so water and condensation will have less valleys to crode in. when the blade is wiped on something, the valley's in the satin finish can sometimes be left uncleaned or undried, and you end up with corrusion, where as with bead blasting your getting a more even easier to clean surface, because there arent any long valleys for things to collect in....

at least, thats the way it seems to me....
 
Thanks for the replies!

Andrew, I agree that a coated blade would be better. For that matter, by the time I save up enough to buy one, the AD might be back around in the rotation. :( On the other hand, if a little bird should drop some money in my pocket, I might just have to go with one of the DC blades at the Co. Store.
 
SethMurdoc said:
satin finish is in effect a set of uniform scratches on the surface of the blade. the only way to remove these scratches is to bring it to a true mirror polish.

bead blasting is a set of micro dots, rather then scratches, formed by tiny beads of glass or ceramic bouncing off of it.

the tiny bead dots will tend to be a lot smaller then the scratches in a satin finish, so water and condensation will have less valleys to crode in. when the blade is wiped on something, the valley's in the satin finish can sometimes be left uncleaned or undried, and you end up with corrusion, where as with bead blasting your getting a more even easier to clean surface, because there arent any long valleys for things to collect in....

at least, thats the way it seems to me....
Click to expand...

HUH??

Sounds good though. Really, I have less rust issues with my DC blades than the satins. Well, 1 of each (users). AD, DC worn next to body and sweated on ... no rust. Super polished ZTNO satin, used in kitchen, left to 'soak' by wife. Couple of small spots (pinhead size). No big deal, both are users. A bit of S-L-I, and no further problems.

Rob
 
i was told that the dc blade will trap oil and hold it better. it also allows for an easy refinish. i've had no problem with my naked blades and have left them sitting in water for a couple of days. i have not used any of mine in salt water but i have left them bloody and blood is salty.
 
In my experience the info about the DC trapping the oil better is valid. Also, IMO being around both, blood is WAY more corrosive than salt water. I believe the couple of pin pricks of rust on the ZTNO was from blood left on the blade and not the water soak that followed. It has been soaked since with no effect.

Rob
 
voracious said:
holy happy trails uncle cid, pass off!
Click to expand...

Jody now licking all his DC blades to see where the purple micro dots are hidden. LOL

Hey Jody, I can send you a couple of Bufo's. We got more than we need down here. Hee Hee

Rob
 
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