Could I sharpen this curved blade and maintain its profile?

That particular blade looks removable, so it should be easy to sharpen the full length of the recurved edge.

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Use a round rod-type sharpener ('field' or pocket diamond rods work well, or a ceramic rod for finishing/polishing the edge), making linear strokes INTO the edge, keeping the rod perpendicular to the cutting edge as you go. Keep pressure very, very light while doing so, as the rod sharpener has a very narrow point of contact and will focus and magnify pressure against the edge. Assuming you're working on that type of removable blade, you could take it out of the handle and clamp it in a hobby vise or similar device, to make the work easier.


David
 
Thank you for the response.

What is the reason I cant make strokes away from the edge like a normal knife? Just want to get that piece of knowledge.

Im thinking of getting a blade like this but with the curved profile
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. Im tryin to figure out most, not how to sharpen but if a curved profile blade can follow all the way down the blade after repeat sharpening. It seems like it might.. yet still a chance that it cant.

Say if I sharpen a kiridashi blade 200 times it may go from 8 inches to 6 inches still with the same profile. Can the same be said with a 8 inch curved profile blade after 200 sharpenings or does it lose it shape?
 
Ah, got it. Seems like it could be done, but might be a lot more tedious to maintain the profile without occasionally regrinding the whole radius of the curve; seems like powered equipment might be best for that. These blades don't seem to be too expensive, so I don't know if it'd be worth it. Also, I wonder if the greater length of the blade is hardened to the same degree as the cutting portion, or if the rearward portion inside the handle is a bit softer (maybe annealed) to maintain some toughness. If so, the cutting edge might eventually be back into soft steel that won't hold an edge for long. Just speculating, but that's what I'd be wondering about.

I recommended strokes into the edge, because it's usually easier to minimize burring when done as such. With a round rod sharpener's tendency to focus pressure on the edge, it's real easy to roll/burr the edge when moving out & over the edge, instead of into it and up the bevel.


David
 
Thanks.

makes sense. The blades sold dont have a rc rating or type of steel. So custom was my first choice especially if a blade can continually be resharpened.

From what I've read the blade needs replacement every 2 weeks. That is for 8 hour days and resharpening every few mins or so. It is oversight on my end because that is still 102 hours per blade as an estimate.
 
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