could use some advice and help.

neetones

neetones

Joined
Apr 30, 2001
Messages
701
Hi everyone. This is my first post in this particular forum. I'm looking at getting a Darrell Ralph 605 kit, without the added cost of the handle material. I would like to use wood for the scales if possible. This is my first ever kit and would be the first time that I'd be working with wood with intentions that the piece look good and fit extremely well.
Well, a couple of questions:
1) where can I find suitable wood for scales on a folder? Would I be able just to walk around the woods and pick out a good looking dead branch? (I can identify trees with a small degree of proficiency). Or, (more likely), where would I purchase wood of this type? What would I finish/protect it with?
2) I'm purchasing a dremel tomorrow, will this just about cover my needs?
3) any general tips as to what I should look out for?

Thanks in advance everyone, I'm really looking forward to this.

Nitin
 
hardwood is good. Wood for knives need to be hard enough you can't dent it with a fingernail.

Branches could work, wood needs to be seasoned to use, thread here on drying in the archives.

The knife supplies or woodworking suppliers are places to buy, USED PALLETS have often been a source of good woods for me:D
 
just a little update... I went ahead and ordered the 605 kit as well as enough cocobolo from Koval supplies to cover both scales. I also got a decent dremel kit.

What's next? What will I have to do to finish/protect the wood?

Thanks

Nitin
 
Hi
Cocobolo is a great looking wood,but word of warning about it
it is a very oily wood,when working with it be carful some people
can not work it because it gives them a rash,I thought I would let
you know I know some makers who can't use it,so be careful
and don't breath any of it,have fun in your makeing.><>
:)
 
Neetones, <p>I hope you haven't started yet. I just "finished" one of those kits, and I hope to help you avoid something doing something stupid, which I didn't .<p>After epoxy-ing the handle scales I started grinding away with a rotary tool to profile the scales to the handle shape. I very quickly, and permanently, marred the bead-blasted surface of the kit,especially along the liners and bolsters. Now my kit is "finished," for sure, and it isn't something I am very proud of, at all.<p>Unless you have a bead-blasting cabinet handy, you should try to be <i>exquisitely</i> careful while using a rotary tool to finish the handle, once the scales are fixed. Or, perhaps, finish as much of the scales your scales as possible before affixing them to the frame. <P>I hope this isn't too late.:)
 
hey everyone. samwereb, I think i'll try to shape the scales before I attach them. I don't know for sure yet though, I haven't gotten my kit yet so we'll see.

Thanks for the tip though.

And oh yeah...what size Torx bits will I need? Anything smaller than a T-5?


Nitin
 
Neetones<p>Sorry, pal. Just would hate to see you do the same thing and ruin your enthusiasm. Good Luck! :D
 
samwereb... I have an idea. If you're unhappy with your kit because of the damage to the beadblasting, why don't you satin finish your bolsters? It isn't hard to do and that's what I plan on doing anyway.

just take some sandpaper, start around 400-600 grit and move your way up to about 1000 or even 1500. you'll get a beautiful finish that wont be so easily marred. It only takes a little time and elbow grease and it'll make you feel much better about the project.

Nitin
 
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