Couple of leather ?s

Joined
Dec 2, 2011
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How can I remove marks from a sheath? It seems that no matter how hard I try, there is always some marks on a sheath by the time I'm done with it. Not scratches usually, but light burnishes or stuff. Looking at "the big boys" stuff, it all seems clean and smooth. Are you guys just more careful then me? Or just better at hiding marks? I tried rubbing them with a spoon orthe like, but then the whole thing looks burnished.

One other problem is sometimes the Tanners bond cement sticks to my awl, is this common, or am I usin to much, not letting it dry enough, to thick, ect?

On a blade type Bowie sheath, should the welt be thicker on the spine then the edge? On that type sheath, would you skive the edges thiner? I would think that might make the top look domed, and might look odd. I can see doing that on a pouch type.

Thanks in advance. Sorry for all the questions.
Cody
 
Cody, you have to realize you are working with a material that is just looking for a random mark here and there, hence you will learn through experience to be very careful handling the project. Keep your finger nails clipped and remove watch (bands), rings etc. when working with cased leather. Careful not to set things on, or drop the piece onto ridged surfaces. Remember cased leather will mark very easily.

Marks can be "erased" by really wetting the area and then with a spoon or other round smooth utensil or tool gently stroke over the area and the mark will almost always disappear or improve greatly, but the area will be slightly burnished. This burnishing tends to disappear also when you apply the final liquid finishes provided you have not been too aggressive and used too much pressure removing the mark.

The Tanner's Bond question could be some or all of the reasons you cited. I neither hand stitch nor use that product so I can only venture a guess, and that would be it is not dried sufficiently or second choice it is too thick.

Blade sheath type welts according to my method should be the same thickness on both sides, and in most cases would be only one layer. The knife blade will form the interior of the sheath to its size and thickness through the process of "damp molding" with repeated insertions and extractions. I am not a fan of multiple layer welts or wedges except in extreme examples.

Paul
 
Thank you Paul for the clear answers. I'm ordering your vids soon. You are an inspiration to my leather work. Thanks again

Cody
 
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