Couple questions

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May 24, 2016
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New to traditionals, still picking out my first one. I had a couple questions I figured could be answered here:

Blade length - I noticed many listings don't have blade length on these, only closed length. Is this typical of traditional knives? Is there a formula to getting blade length, for example a quarter inch under the closed length? I live in a state with a 3 in limit and I'm paranoid so I like to carry around that.

Opening - how hard is it to open these knives if you keep short nails :D i basically lack a nail edge due to my horrid nail-biting habit.

Thanks for any info!
 
You should be safe on blade length with just about any traditional knife that has a closed length of 3 3/4 inches or less. 3 1/2 inches closed would pretty much eliminate all doubt. If you want to be 100% certain you could pick out a few patterns and ask the members here to measure the blade length on theirs.

Pull strength varies too widely among brands and patterns. It would probably be best to ask about that after picking a few patterns as well. You could also ask a dealer about both things once you have something in mind.
 
Master blade on a jack knife (all blades pivot from the same end) usually runs about ¾" less than the closed length, but can vary from about ⅝" to ⅞". The actual cutting edge will be around a quarter inch shorter than the blade length. For pen knives and double-ended jacks (blades pivot from both ends) the master blade will be a little shorter because of the second pivot. The knife in my pocket as I type this is a Queen gunstock jack, which is 3.58" closed. The master blade, a clip, is 2.78" from bolster to tip with the blade open, and the cutting edge is 2.51" from plunge to tip.

I agree with Railsplitter on the pull strength. Ask in the forum, or you may be disappointed. They come in a wide range of strengths.
 
pull strength is very subjective, your 8s may be someone else's 4 and someone else's 10 might be your 5. can always pick one with a blade that is pinchable
 
A suggestion for the OP. Pick up a Victorinox Swiss Army Knife. It is generally accepted that the pull on a standard size SAK is a “5”. Most everyone has one, so when you discuss how hard a particular knife is to open, comparing it to a SAK will be helpful.
 
That's a whole other can of worms :D but good point, maybe I'll get my first SAK before I get a traditional.
 
A SAK is a traditional knife:) But I agree, that is a great place to start! Something like the tinker or spartan would be good, they are 3.5" closed so your blades should be the correct under 3" length. Also, they are cheap and don't tend to worry people! While you are enjoying your new SAK, take a look in the exchange and the daily carry thread for knives that catch your eye.
 
Some traditional knives don't require nails to open. Whether it's a blade shape that has a lot of steel exposed for pinching (many sheepfoot blades) or an easy open notch, there's options out there.

Blade length is a tough one for some reason. I just went to my three favorite dealers' sites, and each of them have a different master blade length on the same model. With the closed length usually being listed consistently and accurately, I'd recommend measuring the closed length on your computer/phone screen, and scaling that to the blade length.
 
91mm or smaller Victorinox knives are under 3" in blade length and are easy for me ( a fellow nail biter ) to open and might be a good place to start.

Now I would say the very best place to start would be the case sodbuster jr which has a sub 3" blade, isn't too hard on the pull, and is very easy to pinch open.
It's a good working knife so while it's relatively easy to open has a good strong backspring to keep it open.
 
Ernie1980 said:
A SAK is a traditional knife:) But I agree, that is a great place to start! Something like the tinker or spartan would be good, they are 3.5" closed so your blades should be the correct under 3" length. Also, they are cheap and don't tend to worry people! While you are enjoying your new SAK, take a look in the exchange and the daily carry thread for knives that catch your eye.
Click to expand...
Ah you're right. In my head I consider a SAK to be a multitool, but "knife" is in the name after all. I'll have to research the different models more.

Sabercat said:
Some traditional knives don't require nails to open. Whether it's a blade shape that has a lot of steel exposed for pinching (many sheepfoot blades) or an easy open notch, there's options out there.

Blade length is a tough one for some reason. I just went to my three favorite dealers' sites, and each of them have a different master blade length on the same model. With the closed length usually being listed consistently and accurately, I'd recommend measuring the closed length on your computer/phone screen, and scaling that to the blade length.
Click to expand...

Thats a neat idea for measuring, I never thought of that. I actually am leaning towards a sheepsfoot profile, partly aesthetics but also I noticed they can stick out more. I do like the belly on spear points though.
 
Are you thinking of a brand new, or a "vintage" knife?

There are some great deals to be found on a certain auction site, but beware of sellers that don't mention snap or blade wobble. Slip joint knives need that strong spring snap. As mentioned above, "easy opener" jack knives have a cutout so you can pinch the blade.

Happy hunting!
 
Many dealer sites will list the factory spec's. I have found that they are not very consistent and are many times in metric or decimal, etc. Do you measure from the pivot? Do you measure from the liner in the full open position? Also, pull weight is very subjective, so most don't try and gauge that. At one time I was trying to find a device to measure actual force required to get to 45 degrees open; but had no luck.

We measure closed length; length from liner to tip of blade in full open; and actual cutting edge. We also offer an opinion on pull weight and overall rating versus all knives in that maker's catalog.
 
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