Couple sharpening questions for a newbie

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vickmacky

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Mar 11, 2010
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Well first of all I have learned quite a bit from this great site but I still have a few questions.

When sharpening, does it really matter if I use a forward stroke or backwards stroke on a stone? I have seen some say its best to "slice a piece off the stone" and some that say you should sharpen away from the blade, like when your stropping.

I currently use Arkansas stones but I read a lot of people using sandpaper, will sandpaper really do the job and do you have to sharpen any differently than you would on a stone?
 
Yes a burr is created when you sharpen an edge, but one of the benefits of "slicing into the stone"(apart from comfort if that method is preferred) is that the burr in removed during the sharpening process. So IMO if you're not planning on stropping or moving up to very fine grit waterstones I would recommend sharpening in that manner. I do it myself when I'm sharpening scandi's on a small diamond stone or if there are no nicks to be removed. If I'm trying to remove a lot of steel on a small stone I hold it flat facing away from myself and then do lots of small forward and backward strokes along each side of the blade and finish of by slicing into the stone alternately to remove the burr. You always want to remove the burr before taking it to the task or the edge can actually be dulled very fast as it's torn off. And last of all a leather strop and compound is hands down the best method of removing the burr and creating an atom splitting edge that stays sharp much much longer. Who wouldn't want that??? :)
I know I ranted on a bit but I hope this helps,
Gabriel.
 
Doesn't really matter. I sharpen 'backwards' (dragging the blade) to hone my blades with convex edges, and forwards for the others with V edges. Sharpening 'forward' as if slicing into the hone will produce a burr, no problem. You can use any sort of abrasive such as sandpaper, natural or artificial stones, ceramics, diamond, etc. I prefer DMT diamond hones for stainless/high alloy knives, and an ancient Black Arkansas stone for my high carbon steel blades. Keep the BandAids handy...:D
 
"I currently use Arkansas stones but I read a lot of people using sandpaper, will sandpaper really do the job and do you have to sharpen any differently than you would on a stone?"

Not sandpaper!! Emory paper. Sandpaper is for wood; emory for steel. If using emory,
tape it to a board (I use paint stir paddles,get for free at hardware or paint store), and
ALWAYS sharpen away from the edge when using emory. I use 400 (if really dull); then
600, 1200 grit emory, then strop. Gives a razor edge. I also use several types of stones at times and more and more moving to diamond stones.

Rich S
 
Thanks for all the help gentleman. Rich, I found emery papor but it was a lot like scotch bright pads, at least the stuff I found. I ended up getting some Wet or Dry paper, 2000 grit, for use on cars and paint. Is that not the correct stuff?
 
Rich S said:
"I currently use Arkansas stones but I read a lot of people using sandpaper, will sandpaper really do the job and do you have to sharpen any differently than you would on a stone?"

Not sandpaper!! Emory paper. Sandpaper is for wood; emory for steel.
Click to expand...

For what it's worth, there IS such a thing as sandpaper for metals (aside from, and not including emory paper). A lot of folks using sandpaper for sharpening are referring to something like this 3M Wetordry product:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...2K94_nid=J2KMBW4WBRgsQ15LPGNZZQgl2BD509TNFQbl

This is what I've used (available at Walmart):
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Wetordry-Sandpaper-11-Inch-Assorted-Grit/dp/B001449TPS
 
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i use the "slice" method now when sharpening, and like it better...doing so you don't end up creating a burr that needs to be nocked off...but if all your doing is touching up, it doesn't matter as there is no burr created then
 
I've been tinkering with the sandpaper and my Breeden PSKK II (01 tool steel I believe) and I just cant get it sharp. But then again, I cant get it sharp with my Arkansas stone either. Its some tough steel. I have no problem getting my Spyderco, ESEE or Ranger knife super sharp but this ones giving me trouble. Maybe I should try a lower grit, I've been using a fine stone/2000 grit paper. On the other hand, where are you guys getting good glass for the sandpaper? Can it be a small mirror maybe? That might be one of my problems using the paper.

ETA: and are you guys adding water to the paper or leaving it dry?
 
adding water will float the particals out of the paper and give u cleaner cuts and makes the paper last longer ,but for what its worth go buy a dimond stone even from wallyworld the more u use them the better they will work and use water on them as well for real sharpening if just touching up spit or dry will be fine(the best 5$ u'll ever spend)
 
A burr is a form of plastic deformation and is a after effect of abrasion to the metal. Studies have shown using edge leading strokes reduce the formation of this deformation and debris at the cutting edge.

Sandpaper AKA 3M wet/dry uses silicon carbide as the abrasive so don't worry it will work with metal.

Sandpaper is also a well known way of getting some really sharp edges, and if you have good control can uses edge leading strokes with it too.
 
I'm gonna get a couple more grits of sandpaper and work on my skills with that. Brad, I actually have a DMT diamond diafold (course/fine) and I really dislike it. I dont know if it has a break in period or not but it just scratches up my blade and gets it duller. I'm probably gonna throw it up in the pay it forward thread.
 
The DMT diafolds are probably one of the best portable hand held sharpeners you can buy. Yes there is a break-in period before they show proper results.

The blue/coarse 320 mesh side can actually get a knife to a level of clean shaving sharpness so I wouldn't give up on it too soon. Using very light pressure is very important to, too much pressure can ruin the stone and make your edge not as refined as it could be. You want to just brush the tips of the diamonds not let them dig deep.
 
knifenut1013 said:
A burr is a form of plastic deformation and is a after effect of abrasion to the metal. Studies have shown using edge leading strokes reduce the formation of this deformation and debris at the cutting edge.

Sandpaper AKA 3M wet/dry uses silicon carbide as the abrasive so don't worry it will work with metal.

Sandpaper is also a well known way of getting some really sharp edges, and if you have good control can uses edge leading strokes with it too.
Click to expand...

I'd like to read these studies . DM
 
I've read all of Dr. Verhoeven's writings I can find but I've not found that . Not that I doubt him writing on that subject matter . I can see the edge leading stroke reducing burrs but just thinking about it I thought the trailing stroke would reduce debris at the edge . DM
 
Truthfully I don't see or even think it makes a difference. If your only going up to a 1k or even less finish it might be a issue because of the amount of deformation that the stone is causing but at the same time I can get near flawless edges from 220 grit paper on convex edges so its a bit of a questionable question. I can't tell a difference with a 400x camera and the only time I actually see it is when using a beltsander.
 
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