Coyote Rifle

Joined
Sep 14, 2010
Messages
556
I am currently looking at getting a new rifle for Coyote and mabey some Boar rifle. The guys that I hunt with we tend to do a bit of this sort of hunting now days between the other seasons Deer and Turkey. My buddy uses a 270 bolt action but we are having a little bit of trouble with these at the moment because the bolt action tends to make follow up shots to drop others in the same group as the original target a little difficult. While those of us that have been using AR varients with 10 round mags have had more luck. I already have one but am considering giving it to my little brother who is just getting started and buying myself a new one. I have been looking at the Remington R15 Preditor, the Rock River Arms 20" Varmint Rifle with Elevated Optical Platform, and the Bushmaster Predator 20" Fluted Barrel. These all have what I am looking for, 20in barrels and ability to mount my preditor scope. I was just seeing what else is out there of quality. I dont realy want to spend more then I have to eather. Prefferably around 1000$. Any Suggestions?

Just some more background info we hunt fields with an electronic caller and most of our shots occur at 100-150 yards from the ground.
 
The predator titled rifles aren't any big deal, and in my view a negative. most any decent brand of AR is going to shoot 1 MOA, with quality ammo. Basically this means be able to hit a 1" dot at 100 yards, 2" at 200 etc.

The predator barrels are not chrome lined so in the eyes of most AR enthusiasts are inferior. they do not chrome line them because in theory chrome lining is one more step to have a slight error and affect accuracy. however, you are talking mass produced barrel in all three of those brands and the luck of the draw is a bigger deal then chrome lining variance. When I say luck of the draw, I am talking about the barrels that were cut after the bit was sharpened or right before it was sharpened, and etc. it is mass production not individual.

I don't know if any of those are Bull barrels, but don't buy a bull. It completely ruins the balance of the gun and has no advantage, except when you are trying to take the cheapest possible blanks and make them shoot fairly well.... not great, just fairly well.

A good blank that is cut well and chrome lined will shoot very well. But I prefer stainless match grade barrels for such work. I have 2 that are chrome lined, and one stainless in 20" that shoots like a dream and one in 16" that I am just finishing up. Also my 308 AR (DPMS LR308). The original barrel on that one was a turd, but the match barrel will shoot dimes at 100 yards.

Rather then the high rise receiver get a regular flat top and the Rock river scope mount. If you ever find a rifle you like better those hi risers are a tough sell on the used market.

Also, get a 2 stage trigger, RRA makes a good one. I really do not like the sales staff and management Armalite, but in all honest their 20" stainless is what I have and it is superb, I like their 2-stage trigger. I just hate having to deal with them (errors, excuses, attitude) Service dept has a great reputation though.

If you buy the upper and lower separately you save 13% (I think it is) on firearm excise tax, so consider buying them separately, you can mix brands with no problems.

I have owned 9 AR's and am wrapping up #10, and have half the parts for #11. Building your own allows you to use all of your favorite parts and allows you to buy sale items for the lowest final cost. But I do not recommend this until you have handled an AR and thoroughly understand it through maintenance. Anyone can follow the directions and do it, but many newbies have problems.


So in closing look at a regular stainless 20" from Armalite and Rock River, and also check out some of the custom shops like adco firearms, Bravo Company USA, Rainier Arms. Google those names. those guys can be rude, but it is because so many tire kickers call them constantly, their patience is all gone.

Send me a PM or e-mail if you wish.
 
The predator titled rifles aren't any big deal, and in my view a negative. most any decent brand of AR is going to shoot 1 MOA, with quality ammo. Basically this means be able to hit a 1" dot at 100 yards, 2" at 200 etc.

The predator barrels are not chrome lined so in the eyes of most AR enthusiasts are inferior. they do not chrome line them because in theory chrome lining is one more step to have a slight error and affect accuracy. however, you are talking mass produced barrel in all three of those brands and the luck of the draw is a bigger deal then chrome lining variance. When I say luck of the draw, I am talking about the barrels that were cut after the bit was sharpened or right before it was sharpened, and etc. it is mass production not individual.

I don't know if any of those are Bull barrels, but don't buy a bull. It completely ruins the balance of the gun and has no advantage, except when you are trying to take the cheapest possible blanks and make them shoot fairly well.... not great, just fairly well.

A good blank that is cut well and chrome lined will shoot very well. But I prefer stainless match grade barrels for such work. I have 2 that are chrome lined, and one stainless in 20" that shoots like a dream and one in 16" that I am just finishing up. Also my 308 AR (DPMS LR308). The original barrel on that one was a turd, but the match barrel will shoot dimes at 100 yards.

Rather then the high rise receiver get a regular flat top and the Rock river scope mount. If you ever find a rifle you like better those hi risers are a tough sell on the used market.

Also, get a 2 stage trigger, RRA makes a good one. I really do not like the sales staff and management Armalite, but in all honest their 20" stainless is what I have and it is superb, I like their 2-stage trigger. I just hate having to deal with them (errors, excuses, attitude) Service dept has a great reputation though.

If you buy the upper and lower separately you save 13% (I think it is) on firearm excise tax, so consider buying them separately, you can mix brands with no problems.

I have owned 9 AR's and am wrapping up #10, and have half the parts for #11. Building your own allows you to use all of your favorite parts and allows you to buy sale items for the lowest final cost. But I do not recommend this until you have handled an AR and thoroughly understand it through maintenance. Anyone can follow the directions and do it, but many newbies have problems.


So in closing look at a regular stainless 20" from Armalite and Rock River, and also check out some of the custom shops like adco firearms, Bravo Company USA, Rainier Arms. Google those names. those guys can be rude, but it is because so many tire kickers call them constantly, their patience is all gone.

Send me a PM or e-mail if you wish.

Lots of information lol thanks alot and will deffenitly shoot you an email, My dad is an Ex-Army Ranger so could probably ask him for help putting one togeather.
 
second what CCKW had to say... my 16inch RockRiver upper with intermediate gas system is full floated and shoots 1moa at 400y with S&B 55grain factory ammo.... RockRiver trigger in ArmaLite Eagle reciever and A1 stock... Enidine buffer and modified Miculeck comp allows you to keep on target thru the 4x32 scope ... balanced better than my ArmaLite AR15T with 20inch stainless bbl
 
If not interested in AR route. Have you considered a lever action? Either way I am sure you will have fun.
 
If not interested in AR route. Have you considered a lever action? Either way I am sure you will have fun.

No have not to be honest I like how easy mag exhanges are compared to loading the tube on a lever action. I dont like to carry loose ammo would rather just carry 2 or 3 extra clips with me.
 
a browning blr comes with a mag, pretty sure you can get them with calibers like the 7-08 and 284 as well as a few others. a friend has one in 284, sweet little rig, very clean action.
 
For boar, do you really want a .223/5.56? A Browning BAR has good caliber options. AR-15's in 6.5Grendel/458Socom/etc. are options for some.

A separate AR-15 upper and lower can save you FET but, you pay more for buying the top and bottom halves separately so there really isn't that much of a savings (assuming you are comparing same quality parts).
 
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