CPM 154 large paring knife

Curt@JCKnifeworks

Curt@JCKnifeworks

Joined
Sep 18, 2012
Messages
18
This was a large paring knife I was making for a customer that I wanted to share.
Specs: CPM154 blade, 60/61 HRC (cryo/double temper), Mosaic Pins, Cinnamon Liner, California Buckeye Burl handle
I data log every heat treat batch I run for my records in case something happens in the future to a knife, and also to ensure a top notch heat treat. I'm also blessed to have access to an electron microscope trough my "real job", so I have the benefit of checking heat treat samples for grain structure, and retained austentite transformation (I'm picky).

I am quickly becoming addicted to Kitchen Cutlery, and have been doing tons of research on the various grind types and steels for Chef knives, etc. I'm striving to provide value added to Kitchen Cutlery, so I want to get it right. I probably put more time into making sure this handle was comfortable than I would like to know. It balances right on the forefinger and you don't even know the thing is in your hand.

One thing I already know I could benefit from is a class in photography! My picture taking is horrible. Does everyone just invest in photography strobes? I notice no glare or shadows on a lot of pictures in the forums.

Please let me know what you think of this knife. Any suggestions/feedback more than welcomed!

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consider using thinner stock, tapering the tang, no bolster or use an integral one for ease of sharpening, rounding of the spine and choil (once there's no bolster or use of an integral bolster).....

try considering a french kitchen knives, american vintage style knives, or even japanese knives as inspiration.

=D
 
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I agree with Franz's points.

Furthermore, unless this knife going to be use as boning or outdoor uses, a thinner blade would be more appropriate for paring tasks. This knife remind me of a Bark River Fox River Knife - Cottonwood Burl #1. otoh, really it's up to your customer and if it met the customer requirements & expectations - congrats, well done!

btw - my backyard tinkered knives are thin & eyes sore. Perhaps I'm biased on the thin part :foot:
 
paring knives are usually handle heavy coz they are usually used for cutting tasks being held above the cutting board. as the name defines the knife, for paring, peeling.

=D

a heavier thicker knife can be quite tiring. so a thin lighter knife will make things easier when it comes to cutting down a bunch of stuff in the kitchen, and easier to cut with as it is thinner.


kitchen knives, as would any knife actually, should feel like an extension of your hands.

research on different grips on paring knives that are used to be able to further refine your design.

youtube would have lots of examples. =D


if it's a large paring knife, i would refer to japanese petty knives for this.

i tend to like taller petty knives as they act more like smaller chef knives.


true paring knives would be around 70mm-90mm in length for most needs.

and i like most kitchen knives to be around 60-62RC....
 
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hi,
i agree with redoing the blade without bolster, definitely easier to sharpen.
On handles, I probably spend twice the time making a handle as I do making the blade. The results sometimes look a little strange, but they have been tested by me(large hands with arthritis) and my wife(small hands with MD).
this site has some good threads on knife photography. IMHO, use natural indirect light, put camera on a tripod if you have to so you can turn flash off, shoot from a distance using zoom so knife is in focus but backround is not.
if you haven't already, go to gator97's site zknives.com. He has tons of pictures of all sorts of knives and some good reviews and articles on kitchen blades.
scott
 
i visit gator's site often when i need to read up more on steels. I've pretty much read everything what gator has to say about kitchen knives. =D
 
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