CPM 20CV

I've had luck with a variety of different stones. SiC, alum oxide, and diamond.

For my ZT 0470 I used Edge Pro 220, 400, and 1000 alum oxide and 2300, 4000 diamond matrix.
 
Bonded diamond stones. I've used venev bonded diamond stones and gritomatic metallic bonded diamond stones.

You may want to try out the edge pro diamond matrix stones that alot of people are saying are very good.

But If you can't spring for diamond. Use SiC as long as your not going to high polish with them.

Then strop on diamond compound/spray.

I personally dislike using ceramic on this steel. Most of the powdered steels with carbides I'll avoid ceramic.
 
FLHTK said:
Mo2, why do you dislike ceramics on powdered steel?
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Not Mo2 but I suspect the reason is because ceramic (aluminum oxide hones) are considered less effective on steels with high vanadium carbide content. (Roughly above 3%, but some claim slightly lower or slightly higher.)

There are several threads on the topic in this sub-forum.

My own recommendation, if you are seeking to purchase hones for 20CV would be to look into diamond hones...whether the plated variety, (such as DMT et al), or bonded diamond hones such as those from Edge Pro, (Matrix), or Venev among others which I am less familiar with.

Diamond will sharpen any steel regardless of the carbide content.
 
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FLHTK said:
Mo2, why do you dislike ceramics on powdered steel?
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They are more time consuming, they load up very fast and require to be cleaned more often to cut better, Vanadium is also harder than ceramic and after 3 micron you can get carbide tear out. I generally saw more chipping with ceramic vs using diamond in some steels too.

With diamond it's fast and easy. No complications. Very crisp edges and that razor edge stays for much longer.

I'll use ceramic on other steel without problems.
 
I use DMT Diafolds ... have used my DMT plates I just prefer the Diafolds on folders and smaller knives ... and any knives I have in this steel are folders ...

I have used my Shapton Glass on it and I may finish on the Shapton or a ceramic hone ... but any real sharpening the diamonds are faster with this type steel ... and it would wear on my Shaptons and other ceramics alot more.
 
The Sharpmaker I have been told is sintered ceramic. Does that make a difference?
 
FLHTK said:
The Sharpmaker I have been told is sintered ceramic. Does that make a difference?
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You can sharpen 20CV on the Sharpmaker. If it's just a touch-up it won't be particularly laborious. If you have to sharpen a dull or damaged knife...prepare yourself to be there a while. (Diamond rods might be helpful in the second instance if you are set on staying with the Sharpmaker system.)

Consider Mo2's points above, they are well taken.
 
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Not set on the Sharpmaker system but I have one with the (CBN, Fine and Ultrafine rods). I mostly use my waterstones for my blades but am trying to understand the limitations of the ceramics.
 
FLHTK said:
The Sharpmaker I have been told is sintered ceramic. Does that make a difference?
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No. Sintered doesn't make any difference.

It will sharpen, just clean as the stones load up with marks, So it will keep cutting. Not idea but they will work.

Sharpmaker has optional diamond rods at 400 grit that can help re profiling if needed. But these take practice using a very light touch so you don't break the diamonds off the surface.

I find the system overall not idea for me on powdered steels with Vanadium. Does great on other steels imho. But should get you sharp after some time on 20cv.

Water stones also not idea. Due to the hardness of the carbides. They would just take a longer time and not give the best edge possible.

I find sic abrasives a good cost effective abrasive that's going to work fast. But they also wear down fast too.
 
Mo2 said:
https://www.congresstools.com/catalog/categories/get-subcategory/?id=27

I forget the exact sizes for the sharpmaker but a forum search will get you that info... Mold masters sic rods are pretty good.
Edit.. 1/2" x 6" triangles and use windex for the lubrication for sharpening with them.
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Just be aware that the corners, (edges), aren't cleanly finished and often have chips or other irregularities. I've never seen one that hasn't had those issues. The flats are usually fine, or can be smoothed in relatively short order.
 
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Blues said:
Just be aware that the corners, (edges), aren't cleanly finished and often have chips or other irregularities. I've never seen one that hasn't had those issues. The flats are usually fine, or can be smoothed in relatively short order.
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I guess flat ones can be clamped to the sharpmaker ceramic stones if needed too.

Edit... Pic in this thread
https://forum.spyderco.com/viewtopic.php?t=75549
 
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