CPM 3V vs D2 and O-1, any thoughts?

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DocT

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Anyone have experience with CPM 3V? I know it is tough. But, how does it hold an edge compared to D2 and O-1? I would assume it does not chip.
Can someone help me with this? I was thinking buying a fixed blade general utility knife in 3V but want some feedback, first. Actual experience would be appreciated.
 
I recently had a thread about cpm-3v where many people much more knowledgeable than myself responded. In that thread it was mentioned at least once how 3v seemed to have very similar semi-stainless properties to D2, with similar edge holding, but much much higher toughness. D2 is not known for being a very tough steel at all (rather, its known to be a touch on the brittle side).

I have no idea how it compares to O1 though.

I hope others chime in and teach us though :).
 
I've made and used quite a few knives in all three steels. They're all pretty dang good :)

O1 has very good toughness, decent edge-holding with proper HT, and is easy to sharpen. It's rightfully famous for taking a clean, crisp "scary-sharp" edge with a bit of care, and you don't need any special gear to hone it (a good old Arkansas or India stone will work just fine). It will patina and even rust pretty easily. It's a very good choice for a general-purpose/utility knife, including ones that might be used for chopping and other rough work. Just keep it clean and dry and it will most likely outlast you.

You didn't ask about it, but since we're talking tool steels we should mention A2 as well. I haven't worked with it myself but by all reports it's sort of a balance between O1 and D2, with good toughness and improved wear-resistance over O1. Another fine choice for a utility blade that can take a good deal of hard use.

D2 has relatively poor toughness but very good wear-resistance; when cutting soft or abrasive materials it will hold its edge a good long time. It's prone to chipping a bit when used for "impact" work. It can pit a little bit, but you have to neglect it pretty badly to get it to actually rust. D2 is known for "taking a lousy edge and holding it forever", but that's not entirely true - it's definitely capable of nice "toothy" edges but it can also be refined to a near-razor edge if you want. It's not real easy to sharpen but good diamond stones can address that. Hunters really love D2 with good HT (Bob Dozier is widely regarded as the King of D2 hunting knives), because that toothy edge and high wear-resistance hold up very very well to dirty, muddy animal hides. I don't recommend it for chopping.

3V has outstanding toughness and edge-holding; its wear-resistance is very similar to D2 but the extra toughness makes it resist chipping. It can get dang near as "scary sharp" as O1 and can be called "semi-stainless" like D2. Again, you're going to prefer diamonds to keep it touched up. It works great for big chopping blades, medium general purpose blades and light, thin slicers. CPM-3V is my favorite steel overall.

Hope this helps.
 
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james terrio said:
I've made and used quite a few knives in all three steels. They're all pretty dang good :)

O1 has very good toughness, decent edge-holding with proper HT, and is easy to sharpen. It's rightfully famous for taking a clean, crisp "scary-sharp" edge with a bit of care, and you don't need any special gear to hone it (a good old Arkansas or India stone will work just fine). It will patina and even rust pretty easily. It's a very good choice for a general-purpose/utility knife, including ones that might be used for chopping and other rough work. Just keep it clean and dry and it will most likely outlast you.

You didn't ask about it, but since we're talking tool steels we should mention A2 as well. I haven't worked with it myself but by all reports it's sort of a balance between O1 and D2, with good toughness and improved wear-resistance over O1. Another fine choice for a utility blade that can take a good deal of hard use.

D2 has relatively poor toughness but very good wear-resistance; when cutting soft or abrasive materials it will hold its edge a good long time. It's prone to chipping a bit when used for "impact" work. It can pit a little bit, but you have to neglect it pretty badly to get it to actually rust. D2 is known for "taking a lousy edge and holding it forever", but that's not entirely true - it's definitely capable of nice "toothy" edges but it can also be refined to a near-razor edge if you want. It's not real easy to sharpen but good diamond stones can address that. Hunters really love D2 with good HT (Bob Dozier is widely regarded as the King of D2 hunting knives), because that toothy edge and high wear-resistance hold up very very well to dirty, muddy animal hides. I don't recommend it for chopping.

3V has outstanding toughness and edge-holding; its wear-resistance is very similar to D2 but the extra toughness makes it resist chipping. It can get dang near as "scary sharp" as O1 and can be called "semi-stainless" like D2. Again, you're going to prefer diamonds to keep it touched up. It works great for big chopping blades, medium general purpose blades and light, thin slicers. CPM-3V is my favorite steel overall.

Hope this helps.
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Thanks! That was the kind of feedback I wanted. I am a fan of carbon and tool steels. My hunting knife is D2 and yes, I love it for the reasons you mention. The CPM 3V sounds like the perfect steel choice for me, then. (What is weird is that I note Cold Steel using it). I am looking at a Bark River for Christmas, but they are a bit costly.

I bookmarked your home page.
 
3V is one of my favorite steels from experience.

As JT said above; all three are good! :thumbup::cool::D
 
james terrio said:
O1 has very good toughness, decent edge-holding with proper HT, and is easy to sharpen. It's rightfully famous for taking a clean, crisp "scary-sharp" edge with a bit of care, and you don't need any special gear to hone it (a good old Arkansas or India stone will work just fine). It will patina and even rust pretty easily. It's a very good choice for a general-purpose/utility knife, including ones that might be used for chopping and other rough work. Just keep it clean and dry and it will most likely outlast you.

You didn't ask about it, but since we're talking tool steels we should mention A2 as well. I haven't worked with it myself but by all reports it's sort of a balance between O1 and D2, with good toughness and improved wear-resistance over O1. Another fine choice for a utility blade that can take a good deal of hard use.

D2 has relatively poor toughness but very good wear-resistance; when cutting soft or abrasive materials it will hold its edge a good long time. It's prone to chipping a bit when used for "impact" work. It can pit a little bit, but you have to neglect it pretty badly to get it to actually rust. D2 is known for "taking a lousy edge and holding it forever", but that's not entirely true - it's definitely capable of nice "toothy" edges but it can also be refined to a near-razor edge if you want. It's not real easy to sharpen but good diamond stones can address that. Hunters really love D2 with good HT (Bob Dozier is widely regarded as the King of D2 hunting knives), because that toothy edge and high wear-resistance hold up very very well to dirty, muddy animal hides. I don't recommend it for chopping.

3V has outstanding toughness and edge-holding; its wear-resistance is very similar to D2 but the extra toughness makes it resist chipping. It can get dang near as "scary sharp" as O1 and can be called "semi-stainless" like D2. Again, you're going to prefer diamonds to keep it touched up. It works great for big chopping blades, medium general purpose blades and light, thin slicers. CPM-3V is my favorite steel overall.
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I too have had a fair bit experience with the steels in question.

James covers them very well, :thumbup: ...and his experience mirrors my own. ;)


Also, I do have a lot of testing/field use experience--read abuse--with large A2 knives, I can testify to it's toughness, it's a very strong steel.

Edge retention is quite good, and it sharpens up easily.

A good balanced knife steel.



Big Mike
 
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If you are buying one of these then you are probably looking for a somewhat tough knife. I would pick 3V or O1 first, D2 last. I do own some D2 knives and there is nothing wrong with it. Some makers seem to prefer 3V and some prefer O1, pick whichever one the maker prefers.
 
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