Cpm-3v

NjHart

NjHart

Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
715
After much soul searching (sort of kidding), massive amounts on internal debate, hours spent making mental and physical pro/con lists, many youtube videos, and endless help from this forum, I think I finally feel confident in my selection of my next knife- which will be my first truly higher quality specimen. I decided on buying a Spyderco TUFF (narrowly edging out microtech socom elite, zt301, and zt561 in that order), and now I'm curious what else I should know about cpm-3v? From my reading thus far, its seems it holds an edge almost on par with s30v and its ridiculously strong, which is a major major plus for me. I will be carrying the blade everyday and would love any information or tips you could give me on the steel from sharpening, to maintenance, to any resist resistance issues.
 
Well it's not very rust resistant, so I suggest that you should either polish the blade, put on a layer of Sentry Solutions tuff cloth, force a patina or just keep it really well oiled. I don't know what you are looking for in a knife other than steel but you also need to consider the design of the knife. I don't own the Tuff, but I have handled one and it is one awesome knife and it is what it claims to be. The Socom Elite is hands down the best slicer of any knife I have owned while still being extremely solid. I've never owned or handled a ZT but I have heard they very good knives as well. The Tuff is too big for me to edc, but that's just me. 3V Steel from what I have found is very tough and will not chip and it should be fairly easy to sharpen, easier to sharpen than many common stainless steels.
 
RevDevil said:
get cracking doing thumb pushups ! :p
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I have Kershaw 1ton that is ridiculously (I actually think something is wrong with it, but it doesn't bother me nearly enough to send in) that is ridiculously stiff and I'm left handed so I have less area to work with. I tightened it down even further last night just to start giving my thumb a workout. I think the flipper on the JYD may have spoiled me.

Oh and unrelated to the title, but somewhat topically- anyone have both the TUFF and zt560? They seem quite similar in the things that matter to me (size, durability, left handed friendliness), but its sort of a tough call. I think the TUFF is more aestheticly pleasing, but the 560 series has the ever desirable flipper. I couldn't begin to get into the steel difference since I'm not even sure I'm qualified to even be a novice there, or in the locks (though the titanium on steel in the 560 sort of concerns me with potential stickiness). As much as I may like some other knives, for my use and the features I desire these are probably the top 2 in functionality, so comparisons or thoughts are certainly encourage- who knows I may even change my mind again!
 
From what I have heard, never, EVER let the 3v get dull. You can let the edge dull some, but you MUST keep it within the realm of stropping back. I mean, I could be wrong, but multiple people have said that 3v is basically a nightmare to sharpen, worse than S30V but about the same as Elmax. I just recently reprofiled an Elmax knife, and even with a belt sander it took about an hour to set the bevel back like 3 degrees.
 
dkb45 said:
From what I have heard, never, EVER let the 3v get dull. You can let the edge dull some, but you MUST keep it within the realm of stropping back. I mean, I could be wrong, but multiple people have said that 3v is basically a nightmare to sharpen, worse than S30V but about the same as Elmax. I just recently reprofiled an Elmax knife, and even with a belt sander it took about an hour to set the bevel back like 3 degrees.
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If anything I over sharpen my knives. I actually find the act of sharpening on my stones to be a wonderful source of relaxation. Also, I'm sort of in the process of making a little pocket strop after an article I read (seems extremely easy and quite beneficial). It's good to know not to screw around and let it get dull accidentally though! ;)

@The Abakar - My desire for the crazy slicing ability on the SOCOM was ridiculously hard to overcome. It's like a lightsaber in pocket form from some of the tests I've seen, but for me I tend to err on the side of harder use knives. I don't put them through crazy abuse typically, but I like to feel like I could and I enjoy a little weight in my carry. All of that being said, a chisel ground tanto SOCOM elite is still on my short list of "must buy when I can afford" knives. It just can't take the top spot over super durable knife for me right now.
 
3V has a third the carbide volume of S30V, I can't imagine why someone would have a problem with the steel itself.
 
Oh, and for the record I just recently reprofiled a few S30V knives, and (again with my belt sander) it takes a bloody long time. Not as long as Elmax, but still a long time. S30V is, for the record, easier to sharpen than 3V. I have heard it is harder to machine, though.

I should add, this is all stuff I have heard. Granted it is from some people who have worked with 3V, but it is mostly heresay. Don't quote anything I have said as facts, aside from not letting 3V get dull. Most all of your high end steels are a PITA to resharpen, but it varies on touching them up.
 
dkb45 said:
From what I have heard, never, EVER let the 3v get dull. You can let the edge dull some, but you MUST keep it within the realm of stropping back. I mean, I could be wrong, but multiple people have said that 3v is basically a nightmare to sharpen, worse than S30V but about the same as Elmax. I just recently reprofiled an Elmax knife, and even with a belt sander it took about an hour to set the bevel back like 3 degrees.
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An hour to reset a bevel? No offense intended but something is wrong with the belts you chose or the belt sander.
 
CPM-3V is definitely easier to reprofile & sharpen than CPM-S30V, and it also holds a razor edge noticeably longer.
Personal experience with a K9 Dingo in 3V, a Koster Bushcrafter in 3V, and countless knives in CPM-S30V.
 
CPM-3V will take a more acute edge angle than S30V without chipping or rolling. Although much tougher, 3V is a little less wear resistant than S30V. I convex mine on a belt sander and maintain by stropping and don't notice 3V to stand out as being particularly difficult to sharpen. I have several Bark Rivers in 3V, a couple of which are frequent users and haven't found them to be any less stain-resistant than M4, but I am pretty meticulous about wiping all my non-stainless with Marine Tuf-Cloth.

3V is considered a semi-stainless by many. Stainless steel are at least 10.5% chromium and 3V is 7.5%. I once read that a guy tried to force a patina on 3V and it wouldn't take.
 
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I like 3V on fixed blades but find it's ultimate toughness lost on folders.


Now CTS XHP is the cats meow for a folder.




Big Mike
 
capid1 said:
An hour to reset a bevel? No offense intended but something is wrong with the belts you chose or the belt sander.
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I agree, not even S110V takes that long to reprofile and sharpen, and I use an Edge Pro.
 
I removed the micro bevel from my brkt bravo necker 2 in cpm3v. Used diamond stones, then sandpapers, then the strop. It didn't seem any more difficult to reprofile than other steels in that category. I will say this, the 1/8" thick stock with a full height convex zero grind makes a scary sharp slicey knife. Holds very well, I'm a contractor and I carry and use my blade everyday. I've only had to hone it about every three days or so on the strop. My eskabar had to be stropped everyday after work.
 
dkb - I sharpen s30v all the time and have not noted it taking extremely long to sharpen.
Same with Elmax. I had to fix a really terrible edge on elmax and it took 45 minutes at the most.
And then, regular sharpenings would take 15 minutes at the most.
 
BladeChick777 said:
dkb - I sharpen s30v all the time and have not noted it taking extremely long to sharpen.
Same with Elmax. I had to fix a really terrible edge on elmax and it took 45 minutes at the most.
And then, regular sharpenings would take 15 minutes at the most.
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I've read some mixed things about elmax- in particular its ability to take a fine edge. Any truth to that? I've sort of started reconsidering the 561 and I'm not sure which steel I'd prefer.
 
Elmax not take a fine edge? That's nonsense haha. I've noted that it holds a razor edge much longer than S30V and it can hold a 15micron grit edge extremely well. It as an all around great steel.
 
any steel in about any condition will 'take' a fine edge, that depends on the person doing the sharpening and the tools they use. keeping the edge is the concern.
 
capid1 said:
Elmax not take a fine edge? That's nonsense haha. I've noted that it holds a razor edge much longer than S30V and it can hold a 15micron grit edge extremely well. It as an all around great steel.
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I'm generally skeptical about people claiming anything won't take an edge (I'm pretty sure I've heard of people sharpening toothbrush handles, so yeah), but it seemed worth asking about. I'm not super into polished edge. At 1000 grit I can shave hair, have a sufficiently toothy edge, and fix whatever blade edge in a reasonable amount of time with reasonable tools and that is with some less than stellar steels.
 
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