CPM M4 heat treat - WTH!!!???

stompbox64

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So I just upgraded to the Knife Maker profile/account, waiting on email, so please bear with me.

Me and my buddy are making knives as a hobby, selling a few to get more good stuff. We just did a heat treat on a round of CPM M4. However, we saw something really strange. We appear to have "case softened" the steel. We went with the Crucible sheet on the heat treat, but when finished, we noticed the following:
1. Sand blasting won't touch the stuff.
2. Files cut the metal easily, to a point, then glide like glass.
3. A hit with a punch resulted in a divot, but the metal shot outwards (like an impact crater on the moon).
4. When we did the punch test with the cut-offs from the untreated stock, the punch simply pushed the material in, no explosive factor in move the metal out of the way.

We did a round before where the punch test resulted in a blunted punch, but no marking on the M4.

Heat Treat (with case softening) - ramp to 1500 F, hold for 30 minutes to equalize, then quick ramp to 2200 F for 20 mins. Quick quench on Aluminum plates. Then 3 rounds of tempering at 1025 F at 1 hr each. Then a 6 hour Cryo treatment with dry ice (-118 F).

Heat Treat (with no issue) - Foil wrap, ramp to 1500 F, hold for 30 minutes to equalize, then quick ramp to 2125 F for 20 mins. Quick quench on Aluminum plates. Then 1 round of tempering at 1000 F at 1 hr. Then a 6 hour Cryo treatment with at 31 F (freezer).

The only differences we can see between the 2 treatments is the foil wrap, the # of temperings, and the Cryo treatment. But our biggest thought on this is that we over-cooked the metal exposed to Oxygen, thus cooking the carbon out of the outside layer.

Anyone else seen this, or can let me know what we did wrong?
 
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Sounds like decarb to me. Try grinding off the outer layer to get to the hard steel below.
 
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You have to use tool steel wrap when heat treating M4, unless you have a vacuum furnace.
Like Shane said above you may be able to grind down to good steel, but I would scrap those and start new.
Also just putting the blades in a freezer does no real good. Austenize at 2150, plate quench, sub-zero, temper, in that order and you will be fine.
 
It sounds like you didn't use foil on the blade you had issues with? Exposure to oxygen at such high temperatures (2200ºF!) will remove a lot of carbon from the steel, and this will result in soft steel down to the depth of the 'decarburization'. Depending on the depth of the decarb the blade may be scrap at this point, at best you'll have to grind off a bunch of steel to reach the good steel in the middle.
 
if i was doing it first like said foil wrap(at those temps pay for the good stuff high temp) then for me 1500f 5 min 1800f 5 min 2100f 30min plate quench and right into at the least dryice and K1 (i use LN tho for -300f over night ) here is where thing s get tricky. if you do true cryo you can temper at 400-500f 3x 2 hours to get your proper hardness. if no cryo then you need the high ranget in the 1000f again 3x 2 hours each ajusting temp to get your aimed RC the worst part of the high temp range for temper is if you over shoot even a little bit you can end up with a overly soft blade

and as said you burned the steel that you didnt wrap
 
Case softening is not a process for knives. It is a process where a part or object is desired to have an outer layer of carbonless steel that will be very soft, and an inner very hard core. Mono-steel knives should be high carbon throughout. Foil wrapping is required at temperatures above 1600F and soaks over 10 minutes....or you will get a soft decarb coating.
 
Thanks all, and I did get the order wrong, we did do the cryo before the temperings. It sounds like a case of the decarb, and we ended up scrapping the whole lot (took it to the grinder and couldn't find a good core). We are going for super hard on this next round of knives.

We were going for a forged look to the flats of the blade, but now it's back to the foil. Thanks all for getting back to me so quick! I appreciate and the advise is well taken.
 
Stompbox, your last post mentioned, "...I did get the order wrong, we did the cryo before temperings". If I understand that comment right, and the process correctly, you want to cryo BEFORE tempering, not after. However, a "snap" temper, immediately after quench before cryo is OK, and sometimes recommended. But generally speaking, harden....then cryo...then temper.
 
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