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CPM S110V reprofiling

R

rororo64

Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
882
Hey all, I recently went on a Manix shopping spree and have decided that it is going to be my main work EDC. It's going to replace my S30V Paramilitary 2 which has been a great workhorse of a knife and I haven't been this excited for a knife since I first got my Paramilitary 2 when they had just came out with the DLC for it....

I do plumbing, so it's going to be used pretty hard on stuff like pipe insulation, hard rubber, silicone, cardboard and many more things. I was wondering what type of edge geometry you guys prefer with the CPM S110V steel and if it's better to have a course or polished edge?
 
15 Degrees per side should be fine. :)

400 to 600 grit will be fine.
 
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I am interested in this too...

How difficult is it to work with something like reprofiling over plain sharpening? It is a majorly slower process than say S90V, which is already pretty slow compared to most steels? Working and removing the bur on S90 is a pretty slow process as it is...
 
pnsxyr said:
I am interested in this too...

How difficult is it to work with something like reprofiling over plain sharpening? It is a majorly slower process than say S90V, which is already pretty slow compared to most steels? Working and removing the bur on S90 is a pretty slow process as it is...
Click to expand...

Depends on what one is sharpening with, I find the burr is easy to remove on both S90V and S110V.
 
I reprofiled & sharpened my forum Native 5 on a standard Paper Wheel with 220 grit SiC, and it was in fact quite easy to do (easier than for instance CTS-204P)
Afterwards i refined the edge with two other Paper Wheels (one with 15 micron and one with 6 micron diamond compound) and these not only produce little burr, whatever is left is also very easy to remove.
In real life the edge looks a bit like a hazy mirror (although some pics make it look more shiny than it really is)

First i tried an edge angle of 25 degrees inclusive to see what it would do, but that turned out to be too narrow as i got a very little chip at the heel after cutting into my testblock (a laminated piece of desk) while pushing on the back of the knife with my other hand.
I removed the chip and enlarged the edge angle to about 26-27 degrees inclusive, and then the edge survived the same test without any damage.
(checked under bright light with a loupe)
So 30 degrees inclusive would certainly be fine.
I also find that the steel keeps quite a lot of bite even when refined up to 6 micron.

This is how the knife currently looks:



 
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Ankerson said:
Depends on what one is sharpening with, I find the burr is easy to remove on both S90V and S110V.
Click to expand...

Ankerson, I was wondering if you could help out with this question since you probably have more experience with all these steels than most others.

I'm not really a steel junkie, but from what I understand, S90V is the steel everyone clamors for more than most any other (just from what I see). What's the differences between that and S110V besides them both being highly wear resistant? Which one has better edge retention? The most wear resistant steel I own is M4 and reprofiling can be quite a task. How much more wear resistant, edge retentive would you say 110V is over M4?
 
uofaengr said:
Ankerson, I was wondering if you could help out with this question since you probably have more experience with all these steels than most others.

I'm not really a steel junkie, but from what I understand, S90V is the steel everyone clamors for more than most any other (just from what I see). What's the differences between that and S110V besides them both being highly wear resistant? Which one has better edge retention? The most wear resistant steel I own is M4 and reprofiling can be quite a task. How much more wear resistant, edge retentive would you say 110V is over M4?
Click to expand...

https://www.crucible.com/PDFs/Knifemaker REV June 2010.pdf

The biggest difference is the alloy content between S90V and S110V and the hardness ranges that they can be taken to, read the above link for the alloy contents.

S90V - 59-61

S110V - 59-65

Both have the same level of Vanadium at 9%, but S110V has more carbide forming alloy than S90V and it's more stainless.

As far as M4 vs S110V, they aren't even in the same range when talking about wear resistance.
 
Reprofiled CPM S110V.....

DSC_4405.JPG


DSC_38641.JPG


DSC_3264.JPG
 
uofaengr said:
Yeah, I don't think I want any part of that lol.
Click to expand...

Not too bad really depending on what you are using to reprofile with, I use Silicon Carbide and it works fine with CPM S110V, CPM 10V, CPM S90V, K294 and K390 etc.

I don't use diamonds, never saw the need....
 
Ankerson said:
Not too bad really depending on what you are using to reprofile with, I use Silicon Carbide and it works fine with CPM S110V, CPM 10V, CPM S90V, K294 and K390 etc.

I don't use diamonds, never saw the need....
Click to expand...

The good thing about diamonds (Atoma 140 and 400 are the ones I have for edgepro) is that they don't dish, setting things up consistently for follow up stones without the need for flattening. The course stones I used before (Shapton 220) was wearing as I reprofiled wear resistant knives and the angle would be changing even if very slightly as I reprofiled a knife (as measured with angle cube before and after use of stone.) The diamonds also cut very fast.
 
WorkingEdge said:
The good thing about diamonds (Atoma 140 and 400 are the ones I have for edgepro) is that they don't dish, setting things up consistently for follow up stones without the need for flattening. The course stones I used before (Shapton 220) was wearing as I reprofiled wear resistant knives and the angle would be changing even if very slightly as I reprofiled a knife (as measured with angle cube before and after use of stone.) The diamonds also cut very fast.
Click to expand...

The Congress Moldmasters I use haven't worn hardly at all and I have done a lot of knives with mine since I got them.... Hard Silicon Carbide......

Still on the 1st set.. :D
 
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