CPM20CV Dulls quick?

T

Trailer_Ape

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Jun 22, 2017
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Ok, I realize cutting steak on a porcelain plate isn't the best thing for an edge BUT (1) I am always careful not to make any more edge/plate contact than necessary (2) I do it with ALL my folders.

My Hogue Ritter (I know most say "Ritter Hogue" but I just think that is backwards) seemed to dull quick. It is really the only thing the knife has been used for and the only area to dull has been the "steak part" so I am pretty convinced this is what did it.

Should CPM20CV dull noticeably quicker than say S35V?

I'm about to strop it and see if I can bring it back w/o an actual sharpening.

Not doggin on the steel, just legitimately curious because it sounded like this was a steel everyone was pretty happy with.
 
Your blade should get about 20 percent more wear resistance than S35VN, all other things being equal. Maybe you had a burr or wire edge.

Try a couple very short, very light, edge-leading strokes with a fine stone on each side of the edge. Then strop if you know how to do it, but not if you don't. Either way, those short, light strokes should make a difference.
 
Has the knife been sharpened repeatedly or never been sharpened ?
 
My 20cv blade seemed to dull quickly when I first got it but after a few hand sharpenings to newer metal now it holds an edge better than any other knife I’ve had. And I use it hard on tough materials. I’ve noticed that on s30v as wel.

I think the factory machine grinding effects the very fine edge maybe tearing or loosening the carbides. The soft materials can then remove the loosened carbides like a strop. Hand sharpening is not as aggressive as a machine using speed and power.
 
Factory edges tend to fall well short of true performance. Getting down to fresh steel and putting a decent edge on it can make a big difference. Check out Outpost76 on YouTube for some good demonstrations on how much of a difference it can make.

... that and don't cut on porcelain, just in case.
 
Danke42 said:
I tell you this steak still has marks where the jockey was hitting it.
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Main problem is that you are using the wrong tool... smatchet is the answer.

And if you ask me, a serrated one could be an even better choice.

Kidding aside, steak knives are serrated for a reason... Makes sense to use a serrated folder for this if you want to use your own knife.

Mikel
 
Trailer_Ape said:
Ok, I realize cutting steak on a porcelain plate isn't the best thing for an edge BUT (1) I am always careful not to make any more edge/plate contact than necessary (2) I do it with ALL my folders.

My Hogue Ritter (I know most say "Ritter Hogue" but I just think that is backwards) seemed to dull quick. It is really the only thing the knife has been used for and the only area to dull has been the "steak part" so I am pretty convinced this is what did it.

Should CPM20CV dull noticeably quicker than say S35V?

I'm about to strop it and see if I can bring it back w/o an actual sharpening.

Not doggin on the steel, just legitimately curious because it sounded like this was a steel everyone was pretty happy with.
Click to expand...

Factory grinding overheats the blade apex and ruins the heat treat. Sharpen it and get to some good heat treated steel.
 
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"Oh, I'm telling you this is a tough crowd."



For the record, I agree with Alberta Ed that most ceramic / earthenware / porcelain dishes will quickly dull a knife...and also with others that the original factory sharpening is usually not as good as what you will have a couple of sharpenings down the road when you get to fresher undamaged steel.
 
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