The emerson web site states that the cqc12 blade has a conventional V grind. Someone in a post said that the cqc12 is a V-grind chisel. Is that possible? A v grind is an equal angle on both sides of the blade. for example 20 deg on the left and right sides of the blade. Does emerson have a different way of grinding the blade?
Also is the pivot on the CQC12 biggger, stronger or different then on other emerson models?
The primary grind is a V grind, but the edge bevel is one side only or 'chisel' which is what it meant when that was said. For what its worth many folks change this when they get them so they are traditional v grind edge bevels since that is what they are used to having and sharpening.
Pivot is 1/4" just like the others. Stop is 3/16" just like the others. Only difference is that its a frame lock in .125 thickness and has one side G10 only. Its Ernie's best production folder currently followed by the HD7. If he offered that HD7 in the A blade which is a V grind blade like the 12 it would be one of my carry knives and a highly favored user.
STR
I use a lansky to sharpen. What angle would you put on the side that is not beveled to make it a v grind edge?
Also I have a CQC7 and it seems to have a plastic bushing. Does the cqc12 have a plastic bushing also. Other expensive knives I own have the P-Bronze washers.
I actually like the nylon and nylatron type washers like Ernie uses in those so don't fret about them. They are thicker than most PB washers you can find and I only know of one place to get the nylon ones to replace those. Its from Fastenal.
On the question of the SnG pivot. Both these knives have what you would call 'bull pivots'. All this means is that the pivot is oversized. Both are unique with the Striders being slightly bigger around in diameter but these are in my experience just as thin walled as the Emerson. I doubt there is any significant difference in strength from one to the other.
Both of these are good choices in a large tactical heavy duty folder. I favor many things about the SnG personally because I feel its more versatile for my own uses and I also like the built in choil for choking up closer to the blade to get some detail work with the point done but its not a big deal usually in a thicker more obtuse edged knife.
Either of these knives will perform fine with a regular 20` bevel V sharpening on the Lansky but I can't guess what your one side sharpening may be at without seeing it. They vary a bit. I would guess its at about 20` on the 12. I would not take it down to less than this on the Strider in particular with S30V. The 12 will probably be that steep or more when you open it up and this is another of the reasons many people elect to change this before even using the blade. The 20` on one side is a thinner edge than when on both in a V so I'd resharpen the one non sharpend side and see how it looks. It can be slightly uneven but that is not really that big a deal so long as the edge is strong.
The most frequently seen edges with little nicks out of them are these chisel grind ones. In fact I have one here that I'm resharpening right now for someone for just that reason. The new V grind edge at 20` on both sides will thicken it fairly well to make it less prone to chipping out but of course there is never a guarantee about how the edge will hold up with a knife used hard. If you still note some chipping after doing this I'd suggest moving up to the 25`or perhaps combining a first sharpening with the course stones at 20` and following up with a more obtuse micro bevel at 25 after that to experiment some with what works best for you.
EDIT: Boy I must be brain dead. I need to change this. By the way. I just noted you said you also had a CQC7. I don't know if its an A or B blade. If the B I'd suggest not trying to sharpen the other side of that true chisel grind blade. I'd leave it one side only and simply resharpen it with a micro bevel so you'll essentially make the cutting edge a bit stronger to resist chipping out for you. Thats probably at like a 25` now so it may be hard to match up the Lansky to repeat the same edge bevel that is there now but I'd simply set the Lansky at 25` and put a secondary bevel on it at the 30` if it has one on yours. If its barely noticed that you did anything you may need to bump up above that if possible. I have a Lansky but have not had it out for a long time.
One of the things I see a lot is some edge chipping on these true primary chisel grind blade like the 7 B and the SARK have on them because its a fact that although the cross sectional mass of the blade with the primary grind this way is actually thicker in the middle making it stronger for prying it isn't quite the same at the edge bevel. There at the edge the one side grind is actually thinner at the edge and so thin it can be weak so it will chip easier being that thin. When you reprofile that one side sharpened edge bevel it will be stronger. By reprofile I mean first identifying what the angle on it is now. Then once you have an idea you'll have to try to discern what it will take to put a secondary bevel on it to make the edge stronger.
I have problems cutting a straight line with my cqc-7.
The cqc-12 is V-grind with a chisel edge. I do not mind sharpening a chisel edge. Also I now have directions on how to change the edge to a V-edge thanks to STR.
My question is does the cqc12 with the chisel edge cut pretty much straight?
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