So my new GEC#81 in Osage orange has developed a crack, right through to the scale at the pin to the spine. (Don’t ask for pics, I’ve tried before and have given up trying). I’ve had it happen before, my “fix” is working some linseed oil in and give it a few days, light sanding, if crack seems big enough apply superglue, sand and reapply oil. It’s worked with no further issue with the crack. Just wondering if anyone else has any tricks? It doesn’t seem likely to cause any issues, it’s going to get used and build character anyways so the crack will just be part of it.
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Crack by pin
- Thread starter spyderg
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2015
- Messages
- 295
I would put painters tape up on the side of the crack to act like a wall and fill with superglue. Take some sand paper and lightly sand around it before the glue drys to match the color if the clear superglue doesn’t look good. Linseed oil on the wood after that because if the crack didn’t come from misuse or falling, it’s from the wood drying out. Recently after finishing a few gunstocks with it I find I like to cover the wood piece with the oil and let sit 10-15 some times 20 minutes before wiping it off.
My preferred way to fix cracks in wood is similar but with lacquer instead of glue. Tape up the edge, dap in a small amount not enough to fill the crack. Sand lightly to add color and mix it a little with a sewing needle, toothpick or whatever can fit in there. Let dry. Repeat till the crack is filled. Done properly no one but you will know the crack is there unless you tell them. Apply linseed oil.
Or you could just put new scales on it, I’ve done that before.
My preferred way to fix cracks in wood is similar but with lacquer instead of glue. Tape up the edge, dap in a small amount not enough to fill the crack. Sand lightly to add color and mix it a little with a sewing needle, toothpick or whatever can fit in there. Let dry. Repeat till the crack is filled. Done properly no one but you will know the crack is there unless you tell them. Apply linseed oil.
Or you could just put new scales on it, I’ve done that before.
Wowbagger
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2015
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- 8,006
I would add two things :
Super glue is a lousy crack filler. It is only of any use with a very tight fit up e.g., if you could inject the glue and then close the crack then you have a repair . . . probably just crack next to it if thin like a scale.
Oil first is going to defeat the purpose.
Best filler / with sanding , to generate wood particles to color the crack, is going to be : good quality, thin, WELL MIXED epoxy.
(guess that is three things)
PS : I guess this is yet another example of why wood knife handle material (? should be?) pressure injected (with epoxy designed for the purpose) before making handles out of it. Or at least super saturated with wood finish. Problem is not all wood looks good with oil based finish; far as I know the injected epoxy isn't going to ruin the look from bare wood.
PPS : three wood types that look better bare than with any kind of oil finish are :
cocobolo, hickory and purple heart. There are others.
Super glue is a lousy crack filler. It is only of any use with a very tight fit up e.g., if you could inject the glue and then close the crack then you have a repair . . . probably just crack next to it if thin like a scale.
Oil first is going to defeat the purpose.
Best filler / with sanding , to generate wood particles to color the crack, is going to be : good quality, thin, WELL MIXED epoxy.
(guess that is three things)
PS : I guess this is yet another example of why wood knife handle material (? should be?) pressure injected (with epoxy designed for the purpose) before making handles out of it. Or at least super saturated with wood finish. Problem is not all wood looks good with oil based finish; far as I know the injected epoxy isn't going to ruin the look from bare wood.
PPS : three wood types that look better bare than with any kind of oil finish are :
cocobolo, hickory and purple heart. There are others.
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The knife was not dropped or anything that would cause it, sat on in pocket would be the most stress in encountered. There was no perceiveable gap but you could feel it and see the crack. The steps I took were,
1. Rubbed in linseed oil and let sit one day.
2. Add 1 drop of “Gorilla Glue” super glue, the gel kind because that’s what I had. With one hand apply pressure to open the crack enough to rub in some of the glue with the other hand. Then wipe off excess and switch direction of pressure to force crack together. Some glue squeezes back out. Wipe away. Once dry, (few minutes) sand and or scrape away any glue from surface.
3. Reapply some linseed oil.
You can no longer feel it, and you have to know where it is and look in just the right light to see it. It happens to be located in a slightly darker spot on the wood. Hopefully this repair holds up as well as on the two others I’ve done the same to, (one wood and one bone). I guess I’ll make sure to periodically apply some oil to this one.
1. Rubbed in linseed oil and let sit one day.
2. Add 1 drop of “Gorilla Glue” super glue, the gel kind because that’s what I had. With one hand apply pressure to open the crack enough to rub in some of the glue with the other hand. Then wipe off excess and switch direction of pressure to force crack together. Some glue squeezes back out. Wipe away. Once dry, (few minutes) sand and or scrape away any glue from surface.
3. Reapply some linseed oil.
You can no longer feel it, and you have to know where it is and look in just the right light to see it. It happens to be located in a slightly darker spot on the wood. Hopefully this repair holds up as well as on the two others I’ve done the same to, (one wood and one bone). I guess I’ll make sure to periodically apply some oil to this one.
Oh, in case anyone is wondering why I oil it before applying the glue, it’s simply to let the oil darken that spot if it’s going to at all. Otherwise the tiny spot where the glue seeps into the wood might not darken as evenly and become more noticeable over time. I’ve seen it happen on repaired furniture. I’d rather the crack darken more than the surrounding wood rather than be lighter if there ends up any noticeable difference down the road. Not sure if it would be a factor on such a dense wood as the Osage but figured it wouldn’t hurt, and not enough oil gets in there as to not allow the glue to bond to the wood either.