Crack Repair Question...

SASSAS

SASSAS

Joined
Aug 16, 2005
Messages
616
Anybody ever tried this? I have a couple cracks to fill and I saw it at a hobby shop pretty cheap...$4.25.

DEVCON 2-Ton Epoxy (30 minute work time, 2 hour handling time)
Epoxia Crystalina Transparente

Works on metal and wood and other stuff. (It doesn't list horn, but not much does).

It's got a nifty applicator with a plunger that ejects both components simulataneously in equal amounts.

Strength of 2500 psi, waterproof and non-flammable.
 
Use it all the time: putting scales on kitchen knives; handles on ceramic sharpening sticks, etc.

Is this a really large crack in a horn handle? Because if it's pretty small, superglue (cyanoacetate) is a better bet. LOTS easier to get into the crack.
 
SASSAS said:
It's got a nifty applicator with a plunger that ejects both components simulataneously in equal amounts.
Click to expand...

Sassas after you use the applicator the resulting glob has to be mixed together thoroughly for it to work.
You probably already knew that but if your new to the product it never hurts to make sure.;)
It can be mixed with a bit of model car enamel to color it black for horn I hear and it can be mixed with the sanding dust from the handle to make it the same color as the wood.

The 5 minute stuff also has it's uses but when they say 5 minutes they mean 5 minutes!!!!:eek: ;) :D

Edit:
Rusty used to use the super glue gel for some of the larger cracks that could be sealed with super glue. Personally I never have had much luck with it but then I've never tried it for cracks either.
 
If anyone feels like browsing;
Lots & lots of other crack repair resources.

If this:
www.google.com/search?num=100&q=woo...oncrete+-house+-wall+-ceiling+-paint+-plaster
won't work in your browser
Then copy this line & paste into the Google search window:
wood|horn|bone|ivory|shell "filling cracks"|"repairing cracks"|(fill|repair crack) -concrete -house -wall -ceiling -paint -plaster

turtle shells
violins
wood woodwinds
cricket bats
lots more


Lots of techniques in common.

coffee grinder to make fill dust was the bit that caught my eye today.
http://www.homeimprovementbanter.com/showthread.php?mode=hybrid&t=778

http://www.sydneywoodturners.com.au/site/articles/techniques/cracks.html



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Some adhesive info:
2-part Epoxy has to be mixed thoroughly, not just stirred together, but really mixed well.
The mating surfaces must be free of all grease, oil, moisture, or dirt.
Mild heat reduces set-up time. I use a lamp with a 100 W. bulb several inches away when I want to speed things up. Not too hot.
Cold extends setup time. Once, I mixed a batch prematurely, put it in the freezer - cheated a bit of extra set-up time.
I mix it on a small piece of aluminum foil, then keep the excess close-by to check the set-up periodically.
Full mechanical strength doesn't develop for a day or more.
Put a good coat of paste wax on your workbench top, and if you drip glue on it, just let it set-up and pop off the blob later.

Superglue needs some moisture to set. Breathing on it is usually enough.
It really likes skin. Don't glue your fingers together.
It is anaerobic - it sets when their is little or no air present.
It comes in several viscosities from syrupy to water-thin. Hobby shops are a good source, as it is very popular with model builders. While you're there pick up a small bottle of Testor's black enamel paint (NOT acrylic!) to color epoxy to match horn.

I haven't thoroughly tested Gorilla Glue for this work, but it might be great.
 
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