cracked axe head

B

bronc076

Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Messages
41
Hello All,

I'm new here been lurking for a while but have a question.

I cleaned up an old Axe Head that was my Dad's. I'm real happy with how it cleaned up after 2 days in a vinegar bath and some work with a stainless wire brush. My problem is it has a small crack you can see in the first image below. I'm wondering if this should be welded and filed, or if I should just leave it alone as I will do more damage than good.

What are your thoughts?

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Thanks
Rob
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
I see what you are writing about, but the discontinuity doesnt seem to go anywhere. I wonder if it was made by the drift that was used in forming the eye. It is a nice looking Kelly, and I would just do a good job hafting it. Enjoy that axe.
 
Thanks Pipehand! I guess I should have said the "crack" is in the eye. It never occurred to me that this has been there since the axe was new and not a crack, however it does not go through to the outside.

I need to find a good handle. I bought a USA made hickory handle at Home Depot (I know :( ) and spent over an hour cleaning some kind of varnish off of it, it sanded like rubber cement. It does not fit as tightly as I like so I'm shopping for another handle.

Thank you again.
Rob
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Is that not the same crack showing thru to the stamped side? It looks like the typical sort of crack that arises when a rotten handle is left out in the weather, absorbs water and then freezes. If this is the case then it should be ground open and welded, preferably with 7018 but most commons rods would do fine.
 
I just inspected the stamped side and there is no crack. I think what you are seeing in the pic is a scratch. The crack is on the non stamped side but does no go all the way through. Probably from Dad smacking the poll with a sledge splitting firewood.

I have a mig welder but i hesitate to weld the crack as I don't want to do more damage than good.
 
bronc076 said:
I just inspected the stamped side and there is no crack. I think what you are seeing in the pic is a scratch. The crack is on the non stamped side but does no go all the way through. Probably from Dad smacking the poll with a sledge splitting firewood.

I have a mig welder but i hesitate to weld the crack as I don't want to do more damage than good.
Click to expand...

I agree with Square Peg. I'd grind a V the length of then weld, then grind, sand and polish. It's a really nice head! If it was just a wall hanger, I'd say leave it. If you are going to use it, I'd follow Square Peg's suggestion.
 
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Id weld that back up as people suggested here, its far from the hardened edge and on the Inside of the eye, it would never show once its hung, got for it, be patient and do a quick and clean job, you will probably be glad you did once its hafted and you dont have to worry about it worsening when you are using it.
 
I can't make out whether it's a deep scratch or a crack. Doesn't look to go right through either. See if you can get some opinions from expert metal workers that can physically inspect the head in good light. If welding (as described in earlier posts) is in the cards at least the eye area is soft and the blade is far enough away not to have the temper affected.
There's lots of miles left on that head and Vulcan (if I recall) is one of Kelly's better grades. If you use the search feature there is an entire thread on this forum devoted to Kelly True Temper history and models.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys. I'll get a die grinder bit and work the crack a bit and see what I can find. I hesitate to take to a welder, seems like any time I pay someone to do a job they mess it up. My 22V mig will do the job as the crack is not too deep, then i'll spend the time needed to file they eye back to the correct shape. Nice thing about a hobby is time is not a concern.

Thanks again and I'll post up a pic when I am done.

I was looking through the picture thread, you guys have nice collections!

Rob
 
That looks like a job for a tig weldor. I shudder to think what mig or stick would do compared to what a good tig hand can accomplish. The only caveat is the tight fit, but not a deal breaker for someone with skill at tig. That is literally a few minutes worth of work, but clean it up meticulously first. Ask around over at http://weldingweb.com , there is bound to be someone near you who can help you out if need be.
Edit; Show it to Zap, he will probably get a chuckle out of the challenge! :p
~
Just as an example of Zap's work, here is one of his threads... http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?651231-The-Tale-Of-Two-Beads&highlight=Beads
 
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I finally got around to welding up my Axe.

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Now I need a handle. I'd like to make one but I can't find a piece of hickory here in southern AZ, i'll look next time I'm in AR unless one of you guys can let me know a good place on line. Where is a vendor for good handles? I got one at a local hardware store but I'd like an 8 sided handle. Does anyone sell those or are they all home made?

Thanks

Rob
 
It didn't look like a real crack as far as I could see, but I also don't think that you did that head any harm. Looks nice, can't wait to see it hung.
 
Going forward with refurbishing a known provenance quality axe head, and attending to a suspicious crack (which could easily have gotten worse) beforehand, was a good move on your part. The repair looks to be beautifully done and will become more or less invisible.
 
Thanks for the kind words all! Any advice on a good source for a handle? I've looked in the local hardware stores and have have not found one that fits well enough.

Thank you
Rob

[edit]
I just found the axe handle thread about two down from my thread. :) I also realizing asking about a good handle on this forum is asking about the best motor oil on an automotive forum.

Thanks again! :)
Rob
 
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bronc076 said:
Thanks for the kind words all! Any advice on a good source for a handle? I've looked in the local hardware stores and have have not found one that fits well enough.

Thank you
Rob

[edit]
I just found the axe handle thread about two down from my thread. :) I also realizing asking about a good handle on this forum is asking about the best motor oil on an automotive forum.

Thanks again! :)
Rob
Click to expand...

Not entirely! Regardless of who makes the handle the onus is on the buyer/user to select for correct length, proper grain orientation and least amount of grain runout. There are threads on here that are devoted to that.
By the way go with any synthetic; minimal wear upon startup and increased intervals between oil changes more than makes up the cost differential. I've been running the stuff for almost 30 years and have yet to wear out an engine, including the 86 F150 I started off with and which is about to turn over 1/2 million km.
 
making your own handle after sourcing your 8/4 hickory or ash is always the hardest/best method of acquiring an axe handle. ;)
 
It's alive!
You've done a first class job of this resurrection and a forum sage such as quinton will likely endorse your 'darn near perfect' choice of wood grain orientation. Somewhat 'insider joshing' aside you've kept money from moving offshore towards a lesser but new purchase, and you've rejuvenated a reliable and durable lifetime investment. Well done!
 
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