Cracked stone

Joined
Jan 31, 2006
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Pulled out my EP tonight and discovered my 5k stone is cracked. All of the other stones are fine. It has been sitting in a drawer for some time, so I know that it has not been dropped and nothing has been dropped on it. I have never heard of a stone cracking like this. Does anybody know what may have caused it to crack? Is it still usable?

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I've got a king water-stone that did something similar, I think it was due to the humidity level in it changing too fast. I filled the cracks with super-glue, lapped it, and it mostly still works. No good for straights, but fine with knives.
 
I also cracked a stone once so I blew the dust particles off of the broken ends and used super glue and fit it back together. It held together solid and didn't effect sharpening at all. The purpendicular crack on yours should be no problem but the horizontal split you have is another story. Good luck
 
I would have to say the glue between the alu plate and the stone was not adaptable enough.
An adaptable glue would be hot glue ( the clear flexible stuff) or contact cement especially Barge brand.
Non adaptable would be epoxy or hide glue (another form of "hot glue").
The stone dried out and moved; the aluminum plate didn't.
Or if you store the stone where it is hot, near a floor vent etc., the plate and the stone moved in opposite directions : the plate elongates / expands as it gets warmer and the stone shrinks as it gets drier.
 
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It was sitting in a drawer of a wall/storage unit on the far side of the kitchen. It was not near heat or cold and was kept at room temperature the whole time. It seems that the stone dried out in such a way or at such a pace as to cause the cracks. The weird thing is all of my stones are handled pretty much exactly the same way and this was the only one to have any trouble.
 
tried straightening a bowed venev 2000 bonded diamond stone, went just passed bend to horizontal crack in stone. reminded me of intentionally cracking racing cranks as i looked at it. now i have another idea for repair n use, although Konstantin from gritomatic showed a edge pro size stone carrier for kme, so might open up another supply of bond diamonds...
thx OP N others-
 
This can happen sometimes especially in very hard bond stones. Sometimes there are many cracks like a spiderweb pattern on glass - this is known as crazing. Your stone may have had a similar thing occur. I would use the CA glue approach mentioned above, it works well. Fill the gaps until they are proud of the stone (will take more than one application) then flatten the hone with a diamond plate or whatever you normally use. I've done this on a few hones and they are perfectly usable, even for a straight razor. As long as you keep them flattened there will be no catch on the edge.
 
Wow and I just ordered two SiC Edge Pro stones. They should be here tomorrow.
Maybe this is a good reason to use oil on just these two stones. The rest of mine for the most part are Shapton Glass Edge Pros and obviously they get water.
This can happen sometimes especially in very hard bond stones
 
It was sitting in a drawer of a wall/storage unit on the far side of the kitchen. It was not near heat or cold and was kept at room temperature the whole time. It seems that the stone dried out in such a way or at such a pace as to cause the cracks. The weird thing is all of my stones are handled pretty much exactly the same way and this was the only one to have any trouble.
Warranty ?
 
Warranty ?
I originally thought about that, but I have had the EP for a few years now. Still, it has not seen a ton of use. IDK. I may give EP a buzz in the next day or two just to see what they say. It probably wouldn't hurt and the worst case scenario is they say, "Sorry, not much we can do to help."
 
Yeah not sure what actually causes this. Seems like it happens to some guys but not to others. May be related to humidity, dunno. Could just be a bad batch with some contaminant that causes this symptom in the hone paste before they're molded/pressed too - no telling.
 
That's pretty strange. Just noticed a crack in one of my stones.

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I went looking for the info I had seen quite a while ago about removing old worn out stones and putting on new Edge Pro stones.
I could have sworn the person just used hot glue but here is another vid
For what it is worth.
I still say the glue was too thin or two hard.
 
I use plain old elmers rubber cement to attach my chosera stones to a 4x1 aluminum plate for my kme when they get thinner and well before they are too fragile. As long as you have the thickness compensator or just go up however thicker they are its awesome. And you can use them down to about nothing . I know edge pro already has a base but ya. And you can even glue cracked stones or stones that are shorter or anything . they have held up for over a year
 
But anyways back to the venev bonded diamond stones...I got the 6x1 double sided full set with all 6 grits . My medium/fine and extra fine/ultra fine feel exactly the same .Maybe even the medium/ fine feels even smoother . Do you think I got a screw up? And also what grit would you compare the f400 and f800 to say in Japanese stones? And of anyone has tried the Naniwa diamond waterstones does the 800 leave a better polish than the f800 side of the venev? Or should I use the naniwa 800 diamond between the f400 and f800. Like I said I don't think my 6x1 has a f400/f800(medium/fine) included . I think it was marked wrong. Any thoughts and answers would be a big help! I have a venev 8x3" f400/f800 coming and a Naniwa 800 and I was wondering what order. I know the f800 is a finer grit but I heard possibly the naniwa 800 polishes better.
 
As a follow-up to my original post, I did contact EP by phone and discovered a few things. First off, they do not have a 5000 grit stone, so apparently this one is not a EP stone. That said, the gentleman I spoke with did say that a propane torch under the plate should cause the stone and glue to release completely from the aluminum plate if I wanted to go that route. New stones are available without the plate and all it takes is some contact cement to attach it to the plate. A little on the stone, a little on the plate, press them together (no clamping though), let it sit overnight and I should be good to go.

Also, EP stone grits are different than their apparent Japanese water stone grit counterparts. In other words, an EP 1000 grit stone is equivalent to a much higher grit Japanese water stone--I think he said 10,000 grit IIRC.

This may be old news to some of you guys, but it was news to me.
 
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