Recommendation? Cracks Found During Axe Restoration

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EyeBotXander

Joined
Aug 1, 2020
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This old axe recently came into my life, so I took on the project of restoring it. The handle was a bit cracked and brittle, and the head loose. But I thought I could make it all work... My intention is to actually use it... I glued it for strength, gave it a fresh edge, removed rust with electrolysis, brushed it, ground down the damage, dents, and one blade chip, and began to sand it in successive stages.... I wanted to keep the character of its age, so I didn't grind out all the pits (pretty deep pits, anyways). However, after it began to shine some deep cracks in the butt revealed themselves (see below). Also, not sure if its a crack, but on the top edge between the eye and the tempered bit there appears to be another crack... :/ Not sure if it actually is a crack, though... Could just be rust pits. Maybe. But definitely cracks on the butt....

Would you use this axe? Or is it just ornamental now? I don't have access to a welder at this time. Maybe I could use a liquid weld product? I don't know what to do now. Feeling frustrated.

Secondary: This axe was obviously used very, very heavily and then forgotten about for 30+ years. The markings say "O.V.B." but I am not sure if this is the famous OVB axe maker, or a coincidence (no logo present). Does anyone know anything about the origin of this?

Thank you!



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Those are just stress fractures in the poll, don’t worry about them. I’d seat the head about 2-3 inches lower on the haft too if I were you. There is a member here named @Yankee Josh who does some really phenomenal picture saturated re-hafting jobs, I’d look at his posts to get an idea on how low the head should sit.
 
The head looks fairly small with a long sketchy handle. I don’t think I’d try to fell a tree or split a cord of red oak with it but I wouldn’t hesitate to use it for light duty like cutting kindling. I wouldn’t worry about the fractures.
 
3fifty7 said:
The head looks fairly small with a long sketchy handle. I don’t think I’d try to fell a tree or split a cord of red oak with it but I wouldn’t hesitate to use it for light duty like cutting kindling. I wouldn’t worry about the fractures.
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It's actually a 4 lb head on a 36" handle. Perhaps its the overall slender shape and the close-up nature of the photos that is visually misleading?... But yeah, the handle is definitely super sketchy. In my mind I will eventually make a new handle. But for now, my plan has been to use Titebond III + canvas fabric to wrap it tight from head down to the knob, letting excess glue fill all those sketchy cracks. I've coated wood projects in poor man's fiberglass with excellent, durable results in the past, and it inspires me to make this one work too. I think the canvas + glue will make a good grip as well. I will paint it as well. Not a traditional looking axe, but to me it's a creative opportunity. I will post some photos when I am all done. I haven't even finished sanding and polishing this head yet, so...
 
A17 said:
Those are just stress fractures in the poll, don’t worry about them. I’d seat the head about 2-3 inches lower on the haft too if I were you. There is a member here named @Yankee Josh who does some really phenomenal picture saturated re-hafting jobs, I’d look at his posts to get an idea on how low the head should sit.
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That's a great idea. I would get more use from this as a boy's axe than a felling axe, anyways... I was actually thinking about putting a shorter, beefier handle on it and using it that way.
 
Anyone know anything about the "O.V.B." lettering? From word of mouth where this axe came from, the last owner bought it in the 60's, used it for maybe 10 years, and then left it to rust in a garage. Not sure if he bought it used or new.
 
the-accumulator said:
Stands for OUR VERY BEST, a mark used by HIBBARD, SPENCER, BARTLETT, & Co. which is now TRUE VALUE.
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That's what I was thinking, but I thought it was unusual that it didn't have their logo, only the initials.... Could it be an early model?

Are OVB axe heads particularly good axes? Good quality steel?
 
HIBBARD, SPENCER, BARTLETT over the years sourced their axes from many different manufacturers.
https://archive.org/search.php?query=creator:"Hibbard,+Spencer,+Bartlett+&+Co."&sort=date
I have to point out that the toe is badly worn and it will take a lot of filling to make it square (in case it has overlaid bit you might run out of hardened steel very fast).
Compare the shapes of those axes to yours(focus on toe vs heel).
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Personally I would just go to store, buy handle and do not mess with this beautiful, vintage one. Save it as a pattern for your own hand made haft.
 
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crbnSteeladdict said:
HIBBARD, SPENCER, BARTLETT over the years sourced their axes from many different manufacturers.
https://archive.org/search.php?query=creator:"Hibbard,+Spencer,+Bartlett+&+Co."&sort=date
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I see. Thanks.

I have to point out that the toe is badly worn and it will take a lot of filling to make it square.
Compare the shapes of those axes to yours(focus on toe vs heel).
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Yeah, I am aware... Although I am not sure what you mean by filling? You don't mean grind the bit further to square it off?

How much does it matter that the toe is so worn? Performance wise?

Personally I would just go to store, buy handle and do not mess with this beautiful, vintage one. Save it as a pattern for your own hand made haft.
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Thanks again for the advice. I might just do this.
 
EyeBotXander said:
I see. Thanks.

How much does it matter that the toe is so worn? Performance wise?

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If you split easy wood on a stump than I think you be relatively ok with current shape (it is more about the weight than shape of the bit). I cannot imagine using this axe in current state for limbing. You would need to be very precise with each strike. There is a reason why people love broad edge Connecticut and Jerseys axes.
 
crbnSteeladdict said:
If you split easy wood on a stump than I think you be relatively ok with current shape (it is more about the weight than shape of the bit). I cannot imagine using this axe in current state for limbing. You would need to be very precise with each strike. There is a reason why people love broad edge Connecticut and Jerseys axes.
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Any reason why I shouldn't cut and grind it to approximately this shape (see edited), and hang it on a shorter handle? Waste of cutting discs? Not enough bit left over?

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You may grind past the good steel, often in old axes only just past the edge is good steel. The rest of the head is lesser quality steel and really just there to make the edge a usable tool. So you probably don't want to grind much if any, just sharpen and use and see where she takes you.
 
thebrain said:
You may grind past the good steel, often in old axes only just past the edge is good steel. The rest of the head is lesser quality steel and really just there to make the edge a usable tool. So you probably don't want to grind much if any, just sharpen and use and see where she takes you.
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But isn't the temper line visible in this case? Seen where the pitting changes? I can even feel the change as I am sanding. The tempered portion is much harder than the rest... Shouldn't all the steel forward of the temper line be hardened, high carbon steel?
 
EyeBotXander said:
But isn't the temper line visible in this case? Seen where the pitting changes? I can even feel the change as I am sanding. The tempered portion is much harder than the rest... Shouldn't all the steel forward of the temper line be hardened, high carbon steel?
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It looks like your axe has overlaid bit . We do not know where the soft steel starts. Top down picture of the bit could help. A soak in vinegar could help identify temper lines.
A lot of OVB axes were made by Plumb: it is possible your axe is funny looking mono-steel axe that just looks like it has overlaid bit (hardened steel can be more resistant to rust)
I think you will benefit from @Square_peg 's old tutorial thread https://bladeforums.com/threads/wal...d-handle-wip-pic-heavy.1535911/#post-17640512

Watch out when using that grinder, it is so easy to overheat and mess up the temper
 
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