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craftsman 2x42 1hp with 8in disc

C

crank78

Joined
Dec 21, 2013
Messages
336


got a guy wanting to trade this a band saw and a bunch or other equipment.
whats this worth I have never seen the 1hp model?
 
I have one of those. It works great. I've only stalled it by getting a knife blank sucked down into the space between the housing and the bottom wheel. Payed $75 for mine off Craigslist. Much better than the current models. I'd say go for it.
 
I believe you need to be a Gold member to ask values.

Trade for what? Pic is kinda crappy and I've never heard of the 1hp either, but it would definitely be handy along with the band saw.
 
broom since you have one. would it be possible to move the motor back and put a 3step pully on the drive wheel.
 
I have one if you're interested. I have a glass platen on mine too.
 
I just traded for this one. got a 11 band saw, tree stand, muzzleloader, and scroll saw as well. I figure the clubs were worth about 600 or so. maybe I done ok.
its to bad he didn't have a drill press and a forge as well
 
The guy whose video that is, that The Count just posted, has some great ideas. I chopped the table on mine for easier belt changes and did his tracking knob upgrade with about 3 bucks in parts from True Value, major upgrade. I have a glass platen that I have yet to install. I doubt I'll do the secondary motor with pulley setup, though. Mine was missing a platen completely when I got it, so I rigged one up. I'm debating about trimming back the housing over the top wheel so I can use a file guide easier and use that top wheel to grind inside curves.

Considering the clubs were essentially worthless to you, I'd say you did really good. Tru-Grit has a good selection of belts too.

I just noticed that you will have to fab a tension release knob for it. Tomorrow I'll get the specs/pics off mine for you.
 
I picked up one of these for $25 dollars on craigslist. I'm in the process of turning it into a 2x72. I cut away some of the housing at the top and bottom wheels and will fabricate a receiver for a KMG tooling arm. Might run a bit fast but it should work fine with minimal investment.
 
yea great vid I have watched it a few times lol. I was wanting to remove the motor and scoot it back ant mount a 3step pully to the drive wheel. that way I could use the 1hp motor that's on it.
ty broom I appreciate it.
I just noticed the new ones are only 2 wheel versions. im building a 2x72 in February so this should tide me over until then.
 
Last edited:
Hey crank,
I just got back offshore yesterday so can't post pics for awhile but I will try to remember when I get back home. The plan is to make a sqaure receiver that will sstraddle the motor and bolt onto the existing base. Then it should jst take a standard KMG tooling arm and platten or wheel. I'm just not sure if the short travel on the tension wheel will be enough but it's worth a try.
 
I hope it works if so ill do the same. like I said im going to build a 72 but it would be nice to have 2 of them in the shop.
 
That is a craftsman 2X42, 3 wheel grinder. The no longer make that model but that is the one you want. The new ones that are 2 wheel with a platen are crap. I used one of those for the first 8 years of knife making. You can flat or convex grind on them, shape handles and flatten handle material on the disc. It is a very versatile grinder and there is no need to convert it to 2X72. I have one that I now only use for sharpening.

Check the bay for belts, they are readily available.
 
Crank, here is a picture of the tension knob while attached:


The bolt is 5/16"x2 3/4" with a 5/16-18 thread pitch. The knob that goes over it is 2 1/4" long and tapers from a 5/8" diameter up to 13/16". I have found that this knob gets in the way a bit when grinding on the slack portion of the belt so I'm going to trim mine down in length, between 3/4-1/2 of it's current length. I'm going to try taking 1/4 of it off first and go from there. I'll let you know how it goes.

I also measured the tracking knob bolt that I use, just to save you some time at the hardware store. It is 1/4"x1 1/4" with a thread pitch of 1/4-28. I took it off before I took the tension knob picture, but here is a picture of the knob itself:


Basically, I took a four armed knob from True Value/Ace, drilled out the threads and all the way through with a 1/4" bit. Then I slipped the bolt through the hole and tightened it down with a nut. It works like a freaking miracle compared to the stock hex-head bolt. Just be careful putting it in the vise to drill it, I broke one of the arms when I tightened it too much.

Let me know if you have any other questions when you finally get it. It is a great machine and you lucked out getting an old model with the larger motor.
 
josh I sent you a email. I would be interested. I could use 2 of them.

ty broom I go pick it up sat ill get that fixed soon as I get it home.

I think I read somewhere that the 1hp model is a little slower as well is that correct?
 
Broomhead said:
I also measured the tracking knob bolt that I use, just to save you some time at the hardware store. It is 1/4"x1 1/4" with a thread pitch of 1/4-28. I took it off before I took the tension knob picture, but here is a picture of the knob itself:


Basically, I took a four armed knob from True Value/Ace, drilled out the threads and all the way through with a 1/4" bit. Then I slipped the bolt through the hole and tightened it down with a nut. It works like a freaking miracle compared to the stock hex-head bolt. .
Click to expand...

Nice fix, but if you do it again, you can buy them like that.
 
Broomhead said:
Crank, here is a picture of the tension knob while attached:


The bolt is 5/16"x2 3/4" with a 5/16-18 thread pitch. The knob that goes over it is 2 1/4" long and tapers from a 5/8" diameter up to 13/16". I have found that this knob gets in the way a bit when grinding on the slack portion of the belt so I'm going to trim mine down in length, between 3/4-1/2 of it's current length. I'm going to try taking 1/4 of it off first and go from there. I'll let you know how it goes.

I also measured the tracking knob bolt that I use, just to save you some time at the hardware store. It is 1/4"x1 1/4" with a thread pitch of 1/4-28. I took it off before I took the tension knob picture, but here is a picture of the knob itself:


Basically, I took a four armed knob from True Value/Ace, drilled out the threads and all the way through with a 1/4" bit. Then I slipped the bolt through the hole and tightened it down with a nut. It works like a freaking miracle compared to the stock hex-head bolt. Just be careful putting it in the vise to drill it, I broke one of the arms when I tightened it too much.

Let me know if you have any other questions when you finally get it. It is a great machine and you lucked out getting an old model with the larger motor.
Click to expand...

You can take the knob and tension assembly off and rotate it to several different positions. You csn also make it tighter by winding the spring a bit tighter. Just be forewarned its a bit of a snake to wrangle.
 
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