Craftsman 2x42 Belt Grinder Problem

tubamonster · Mar 16, 2015

This is my first time to use the belt on this grinder. It is hanging over the tracking wheel by about 3/8 of an inch. It stays in place when I run it, but it does concern me. Is there anyway to fix this or should I see if I can get it replaced or repaired under warranty?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzOEvtF2QxhvYmswVjkwRHdoYzA/view?usp=sharing

Cajun Kamikaze · Mar 16, 2015

There should be an adjustment screw near the upper (small) wheel when positioned vertically. Use that to adjust the belt so it's placement on the plenum is what you need. The belt doesn't have to always ride on the tracking wheel 100%. I don't think you have an issue to be fixed, you just need to get more familiar with your tool.

Maelstrom78 · Mar 16, 2015

I JB welded a knob on the tracking bolt. Much more convenient. I still use my 2x42 on occasion.

NC Biker · Mar 16, 2015

I just duct taped a allen wrench to mine.

T.Knotts · Mar 16, 2015

Cajun is correct. there is a screw at the top wheel that takes an allen wrench to adjust the tracking. I have the same machine and have to adjust tracking quit often and so just like Maelstrom said, jb weld a knob on it for convenience.

tim

Salolan · Mar 16, 2015

Figure out what screw is for the tracking, then remove that said allen screw. Take it to a hardware store and find a threaded thumb screw to replace it and you no longer need a tool to adjust tracking.
If you haven't already, check Youtube for 2x42 mods. There are several there that really improve the functionality of the machine. Other than that, get some quality belts and get used to grinding at warp speed.

Chris

12345678910 · Mar 16, 2015

Salolan said:
Figure out what screw is for the tracking, then remove that said allen screw. Take it to a hardware store and find a threaded thumb screw to replace it and you no longer need a tool to adjust tracking.
If you haven't already, check Youtube for 2x42 mods. There are several there that really improve the functionality of the machine. Other than that, get some quality belts and get used to grinding at warp speed.

Chris

I agree with that, having to use a hex key is silly

John Katt · Mar 16, 2015

These might make a cleaner looking mod

http://www.grainger.com/category/ma...t-3~~~8++knob?nls=1&sst=subset&ts_optout=true

NC Biker · Mar 16, 2015

12345678910 said:
I agree with that, having to use a hex key is silly

Call me silly, but it gave me something to do with one of the extra 30 or 40 so hex wrenches I get from China every time I'm supposed to put something together. Cheap, easy and most important... it works!

zooker89 · Mar 16, 2015

I would just weld the allen wrench to the screw.

Skeaterbait · Mar 17, 2015

I typically don't lock the nut down on mine and find it not that difficult to adjust with my fingers.

12345678910 · Mar 17, 2015

NC Biker said:
Call me silly, but it gave me something to do with one of the extra 30 or 40 so hex wrenches I get from China every time I'm supposed to put something together. Cheap, easy and most important... it works!

I actually meant that as directed towards the designers of the tool, saving $1 on the plastic knob but forcing you to fiddle with hex keys each time.

NC Biker · Mar 17, 2015

12345678910 said:
I actually meant that as directed towards the designers of the tool, saving $1 on the plastic knob but forcing you to fiddle with hex keys each time.

I agree, there are a lot of things the designer could have done to make it easier to change and adjust belts, but it's pretty clear the machine was designed for wood workers as it's advertised as a sander, not a grinder. Woodworkers will slap on a AO belt and run it forever. To change a belt on a stock machine you have to remove the side cover and table. Then reassemble and use a hex key and wrench to unlock and adjust the tracking. Not a setup a knife maker would like to deal with. Most I've seen using the Craftsman trash the side cover right off the bat. Then modify the table so that belts can be removed without having to remove the table. Then comes some type of mod to the tracking screw, in my case a hex key, but your right, an adjustable knob would be nice.

To the OP, look into modding your platen with a pyrochem glass backing plate. This will greatly improve your machine. Like others have said, just Google "2x42 mods" and you will find lots of info.

Kootenay · Nov 15, 2017

I know this is an old thread, but since I just bought the Dayton 2x42 (which is the same) and have the same problem...

I took my level and lined the rollers up on my belt sander... I wanted to see if the bottom drive roller was aligned straight to the top roller, thinking that if they line up then it is either the belt or something else. Sure enough the angle is off just a hair, which translates to about 3/8” at the top roller. So that accounts for the belt hanging off on the top!

I took the top roller lever off (just undo the handle screw) and pulled the top roller assembly out. I could see that it is possible to put a shim between the housing and the roller assembly, so it would push it out to the right just enough to line the rollers up. I bought two 1/2” steel washers to shim the Sander’s top roller... since nothing is ever easy they were 1mm too small to fit on so rather than go back to Lowe’s/Home Depot to get larger washers I reamed the inside of washers out a bit with a dremel to make them fit onto the top roller assembly.

Reassembled and now every is 100% lined up and working fine. Happy not to have to send it back, and not a bad little project for a Tuesday night!