Craftsman mini hatchet with curly osage handle

[osage outlaw]

I found this Craftsman mini hatchet head in my Grandfathers tool shed when we were tearing it down. He passed away over 20 years ago. The hatchet head is in rough shape with a lot of pitting. I cleaned it up the best I could with a brass wire brush wheel. I found a picture online of the hatchet with the original handle. I used some curly osage and made a new one matching the shape the best that I could. I finished it with 6 coats of tru-oil. I'm giving it to a friends son. He is just shy of 3 years old so its going to be more for display. This was the first time I have messed with any restore work on a hatchet. I'm a beginner with this stuff so any constructive criticism is welcome. I should have done something different with the wedge.

I also made a new osage handle for this throwing hawk. I'm giving it to my friends other son. He is a teenager and likes to throw hatchets at the primitive archery gatherings that we go to. I traded for the head a few years ago. Its made from an old leaf spring. Its finished with several coats of spray polyurethane and tung oil.

Here is my small hatchet collection so far. I have always loved using hatchets and just got into collecting them this winter. I'll be making new handles for the two heads soon.

 

[osage outlaw]

Does anyone know roughly how old the mini hatchet is?

 

[jblyttle]

I found this Craftsman mini hatchet head in my Grandfathers tool shed when we were tearing it down. He passed away over 20 years ago. The hatchet head is in rough shape with a lot of pitting. I cleaned it up the best I could with a brass wire brush wheel. I found a picture online of the hatchet with the original handle. I used some curly osage and made a new one matching the shape the best that I could. I finished it with 6 coats of tru-oil. I'm giving it to a friends son. He is just shy of 3 years old so its going to be more for display. This was the first time I have messed with any restore work on a hatchet. I'm a beginner with this stuff so any constructive criticism is welcome. I should have done something different with the wedge.

So....I agree with regard to the wedge. Fix it when the kid is old enough to use it, I guess. The head is rough, but only visually, I'm sure that it will be a fine user. But the handle...

"I'm only a beginner" he says. To axes maybe. Certainly not to working with wood. That hatchet handle is like looking at axe porn. Bravo.

 

[osage outlaw]

Yeah, I have some wood working experience. I've been making wood longbows for 6 years now.

 

[lobo9er]

Nice work. The wedge might be unsafe for using. The wood working and finish is light years of anything I could do though. Beautiful gift.

 

[300Six]

You definitely are talented with wood! Nice job of the shaping. I suspect that both the hawk and the hatchet can be disassembled without too much grief. You really don't want either head to ever fly off. The hatchet should have a kerf cut into it and a taper wedge installed. If this doesn't have any appeal (ie trying to take it apart) it is much simpler to just pound a conventional steel wedge in there or better yet see if you can get hold of one of those now-popular hollow cone-shaped metal wedges that many European axes feature. Hawks are generally slip fit like a pickaxe or a mattock and therefore have no wedge at all. Does yours have a noticeably tapered eye (front larger than the back)! If not, with a dremel tool or a small grind stone on a drill you could also make a small eye flair so that a kerf and wedge can hold the head in place. A hawk haft with no shoulder is going to be problematic though (head can slip off towards the back) if wedging is in the cards.
All the best to you man.

By the way; do I happen to spy some P. L. (Peter Lymburner) Robertson's 1908 Canadian patent #2 size "square drive" screws showing on that work table of yours? If you ain't living in Canada, and are actually using these that puts you in my good books for practicality! 107 years later (despite the much more recent Torx design) they still are the best

 

[Hacked]

Yeah, I have some wood working experience. I've been making wood longbows for 6 years now.

This explains the username and the wood selection. The handles look great, I agree about adding a wedge to the hatchet. Its easy enough to do so no issues there.

I will point out that with handles for hatchets, hammers and so on it is widely accepted that the grain should run as close to parallel to the business ends of the tool. I wouldn't worry about it in these cases, but something to keep in mind for the future.

 

[the possum]

That's some pretty wood. I have a soft spot for hedge/osage orange as well, and am in the middle of making a hedgewood handle for a mini Craftsman like yours as well.

I will point out that with handles for hatchets, hammers and so on it is widely accepted that the grain should run as close to parallel to the business ends of the tool.

+1. Now that I see you're a bow maker, it makes sense why you went with this grain orientation, but like Hacked said, it would be better to turn it 90 degrees so the grain is lined up with the cutting edge. Probably won't be an issue on such a small hatchet though.

I found a picture online of the hatchet with the original handle. I used some curly osage and made a new one matching the shape the best that I could.

As long as you're starting from scratch, don't be afraid to deviate from the shape of the original handle. Factories in the last several decades especially seem to shape handles based as much on minimizing waste, and ease of cutting them from a flat board, as they do for user comfort. Yours turned out right pretty though.

 

[osage outlaw]

You definitely are talented with wood! Nice job of the shaping. I suspect that both the hawk and the hatchet can be disassembled without too much grief. You really don't want either head to ever fly off. The hatchet should have a kerf cut into it and a taper wedge installed. If this doesn't have any appeal (ie trying to take it apart) it is much simpler to just pound a conventional steel wedge in there or better yet see if you can get hold of one of those now-popular hollow cone-shaped metal wedges that many European axes feature. Hawks are generally slip fit like a pickaxe or a mattock and therefore have no wedge at all. Does yours have a noticeably tapered eye (front larger than the back)! If not, with a dremel tool or a small grind stone on a drill you could also make a small eye flair so that a kerf and wedge can hold the head in place. A hawk haft with no shoulder is going to be problematic though (head can slip off towards the back) if wedging is in the cards.
All the best to you man.

By the way; do I happen to spy some P. L. (Peter Lymburner) Robertson's 1908 Canadian patent #2 size "square drive" screws showing on that work table of yours? If you ain't living in Canada, and are actually using these that puts you in my good books for practicality! 107 years later (despite the much more recent Torx design) they still are the best

Their is no taper to the eye on the hawk. I don't think I can take these apart without messing them up. The head fit very snug on the hatchet. I had to do some pounding to get it seated. I took a ring shanked nail and hammered it flat and into a tiny wedge shape. The edges of the wedge still had the rings so it was kind of barbed looking. I used the same type of nail on the hawk. I cut it to about an inch long and didn't flatten it.

I'm a little south of Canada. Those square head screws are some kind of exterior deck screw. I do prefer the square drive heads.

 

[osage outlaw]

This explains the username and the wood selection. The handles look great, I agree about adding a wedge to the hatchet. Its easy enough to do so no issues there.

I will point out that with handles for hatchets, hammers and so on it is widely accepted that the grain should run as close to parallel to the business ends of the tool. I wouldn't worry about it in these cases, but something to keep in mind for the future.

I knew the grain orientation wasn't ideal for both of them. I wanted to cut the handle out of a highly figured osage board. I couldn't get the shape that I wanted with the grain running the right direction. With it being such a small hatchet I didn't think it would hurt anything. The handle on the hawk had a slight curve to it. I turned it so it would curve forward instead of sideways. I harvest a lot of osage for bow making and I'm very familiar with its strength. I'll make sure the grain is correct on any tools that will see some serious use.

 

[osage outlaw]

Thank you for the compliments and advice. I am very happy that I found this forum. I have enjoyed looking at everyone's work. Bringing some tools back to life was very rewarding. I'm already looking forward to my next project.


Is there a tutorial on how to correctly wedge the handle? I would like to see some pictures of how the kerf is cut and the shape of the wedge. Also, is there a section on this forum with any draw knife information?

 

[rjdankert]

I knew the grain orientation wasn't ideal for both of them. I wanted to cut the handle out of a highly figured osage board. I couldn't get the shape that I wanted with the grain running the right direction. With it being such a small hatchet I didn't think it would hurt anything. . .

That handle will last forever if it's not abused. Maybe only 100 years if it is.

Good job!

 

[Hacked]

Is there a tutorial on how to correctly wedge the handle? I would like to see some pictures of how the kerf is cut and the shape of the wedge. Also, is there a section on this forum with any draw knife information?

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JWFSM0qEvX0

I like this tutorial personally. Most handles have a kerf cut though I re-hafted a hatchet that did not, and made a handle for a hammer recently. A thin hand saw works fine, clamp and saw, take it slow and make sure you stay centered. With your skills I'm sure it will be a breeze.

Other notes, I believe the video shows the technique but when I was starting out the concept of hitting the handle rather than the head to seat the ax head was not obvious to me. It works really really well. I prefer to leave a decent amount of half above the eye as it will swell over the eye opening and aid in keeping the handle attached even if it comes lose. It also helps if you need to tighten the head in the field as you can always drive the wedge in a little further. Finally it can also be useful in removing the haft if need be. I don't use glue and never ever ever use a metal wedge as I've seen them cause splits over time. Instead I simply coat the wedge with BLO before I drive it in to help it on its way, much like using grease on a bolt to help touque it down nice and tight.

 

[garry3]

I knew the grain orientation wasn't ideal for both of them. I wanted to cut the handle out of a highly figured osage board. I couldn't get the shape that I wanted with the grain running the right direction. With it being such a small hatchet I didn't think it would hurt anything. The handle on the hawk had a slight curve to it. I turned it so it would curve forward instead of sideways. I harvest a lot of osage for bow making and I'm very familiar with its strength. I'll make sure the grain is correct on any tools that will see some serious use.

Might be better to run the grain that way. Might get some flex out of it. Probably not though.

Is it true that it dulls cutting tools quickly and is gnarly, twisted and hides all its faults underneath the bark to surprise the unsuspecting?

And your handles look great!:thumbup:

 

[osage outlaw]

Might be better to run the grain that way. Might get some flex out of it. Probably not though.

Is it true that it dulls cutting tools quickly and is gnarly, twisted and hides all its faults underneath the bark to surprise the unsuspecting?

And your handles look great!:thumbup:

Osage can be very gnarly and twisted. If you study the bark closely you can get a good idea of how the grain is going to run. I try to get as straight and clean sections as possible for bows. As far as dulling cutting tools I can't really say for sure. Osage is about the only wood that I cut. I have a 14" homelite chainsaw and I've cut a lot of trees with it. Several were in the 24" diameter range. I sharpen the chain a couple of times a year. As far as hand tools like draw knives, rasps, and scrapers I don't think osage dulls them any faster than other woods. Hop Hornbeam has been the hardest wood that I have worked with so far.

 

[garry3]

I think you should stay traditional all the way and use an axe on that Osage.(just kidding)


I fool around with the stuff on occasion. I have some Osage matched billets laying around still, but I think I am out of staves. I don't make many bows these days and I am well stocked for my needs with yew. If I ever make it down there again where osage is plentiful I would for sure cut more.

Your back ground has served you well for shaping and making handles. I look forward to seeing what else you come with.:thumbup:

I can't imagine a better handle material than Osage. I would think you could easily make your handles as thin as you wished and disregard most rules that would apply to lesser wood. As long as there was not a lot of grain run out near the head it would be pretty dang hard to break.

 

[osage outlaw]

I agree with you on the osage handles. From my experience bending it I know how much thickness and width it takes before it starts to flex.

 

[mhutch]

Fun fact about osage, it's colloquially called "bodark" which came from the term bois d'arc because of its use in making bows. Apparently back in the day a good osage bow was worth more than a horse. Where I grew up in south central Kansas we were on the western edge of the tree's range so a lot of the woods I used to play in as a kid were full of these trees, and a lot of the farms out east have osage fence posts.

Not particularly relevant, just thought I'd add because they're such cool trees!

By the way, beautiful handles!

 

[osage outlaw]

Thanks mhutch. Our property is about 75% osage trees. The property lines are marked with hedgerows. Bow making was a good hobby for me to get involved in.

 

[LEGION 12]

Thanks mhutch. Our property is about 75% osage trees. The property lines are marked with hedgerows. Bow making was a good hobby for me to get involved in.

You must live in Illinois ? I have an Osage stave if I post some pics could you tell if it's worth trying to make a bow out of ? If not I will probably make a haft out of it.