Crawford 1 : reluctant safety lock fix ?

[DocJD]

I only paid $22.50 , and seems like a pretty good knife for that money .

A liner lock , flipper with a secondary slide lock . Flips fine , good detent . Easy open & close with either hand .

Safety not needed for routine utility , but I wouldn't trust for harder use / SD without it .

Everything else works , and I like the way the flipper and thumb ramp act as a guard .

The safety lock is difficult to engage . But if you advance the lock bar over with thumbnail or screwdriver , the safety will slide into place easily .

So , I believe the problem will solve itself as the lock wears in a bit .

For SD especially , you need to have the safety working smoothly .

Anyone have this problem with this type safety . Thoughts about a fix ?

 

[DocJD]

If you flip it out (the blade , don't get excited ) extra hard , sometimes the safety will work .

So , yeah , I think this may be a self limiting problem that will wear in pretty quickly .

 

[paul brown]

Luv them knives has a disassembly video on youtube that shows the knife opened up. Those two screws effect the tightness of the safety. A left handed safety feature with no left clip, dang even when lefties win, we loose.

 

[jbmonkey]

Doc are ya saying the liner lock bar isn't over far enough to engage the slide or secondary lock? unless flipped open real hard? am I following, right?

 

[DocJD]

Doc are ya saying the liner lock bar isn't over far enough to engage the slide or secondary lock? unless flipped open real hard? am I following, right?

Exactly .

I can also just push the lock bar over some , to make room for the slide lock to move behind it .

Seems to be getting better as I work it .

 

[jbmonkey]

Exactly .

I can also just push the lock bar over some , to make room for the slide lock to move behind it .

Seems to be getting better as I work it .

gotcha. Id think of ya go and cut something firmer and use some pressure the liner lock will settle in further and stay that way. every liner lock i own has always set deeper in from using and cutting pressure and stayed further in.

 

[jbmonkey]

Doc give us your feedback on the 4034 steel after ya used it a bit and got a feel for it. thanks.

 

[jux t]

Doc give us your feedback on the 4034 steel after ya used it a bit and got a feel for it. thanks.

I’ve been able to compare the AUS8 in the micro recon 1 to the 4034 in the latest version. After stripping audio cables and opening boxes with both, i could tell the AUS8 kept a working edge significantly longer, for what it’s worth.

 

[DocJD]

Doc give us your feedback on the 4034 steel after ya used it a bit and got a feel for it. thanks.

My Crawford blade is labeled "4116" steel .

Kitchen knife cheap stainless , IIRC ?

 

[DocJD]

I’ve been able to compare the AUS8 in the micro recon 1 to the 4034 in the latest version. After stripping audio cables and opening boxes with both, i could tell the AUS8 kept a working edge significantly longer, for what it’s worth.

I recently received a Grik and a Tuff Lite .

I was not upset to see that both are AUS8 / Taiwan .

 

[jbmonkey]

My Crawford blade is labeled "4116" steel .

Kitchen knife cheap stainless , IIRC ?

wow really? thought those were all 4034. wonder if they changed to 4116 or first versions were 4116. one I got is labeled 4034 and I've had it awhile now. go figure.........

yeah 4116 is a stainless...not too bad. I got it on a few cold steel fixed blades. takes good sharp edge and easy to keep sharp. doesn't hold it long.

cliff stamp said it was close to 12C27M. its not too far off from 420hc either....chemical make up wise. I dont dislike it for what it is.....