Critique and Opinions Needed

2

252chevyboyz

Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Messages
147
Just wanted to get some critique on my current project. I replaced the handle on one of my favorite heads about a week ago now and the knob on the end of the handle just wasn't quite pronounced enough for use with thicker gloves on. I have maybe 8-9hrs worth of work time on it since I put the new handle on. This evening I set out to change up the handle a bit. Shaved off a little bit up near the head also. Seemed to be a thick. Did everything with a rasp and sanded it down afterwards. Then coated it with BLO.

What I wanted everyone to critique and give their opinion on was what I maybe did wrong or could have done differently to achieve a better end result. Maybe post up a picture of one of your projects or a pic of one you thought was executed near perfectly. If you think it's a job well done just let me know. Always open to critique from the experts or others with more experience than myself.

Thanks for any help or opinions,
-Rick

Before:

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This Evening Before BLO:

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This Evening After BLO:

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Sorry the pic quality. Everything was taken with my cell phone so the quality might not be the best

T2 Tappin'
 
Overall I'd call it a very good hang. As far as 'open hang'/'closed hang' it looks just right. I like how you've captured the little finger far enough forward that the end of the swell won't blister the heel of your hand. Both the bit and poll of the axe look unabused and in good shape.

I can make some suggestions but these are really minor little nitpicky things hardly worth mentioning. You could have taken a hair more off the shoulder on the poll side. It's not a Quasimodo my any means. Just barely more hump than needed.

In the top down shot:
I don't really care for round wedges. I prefer just wood wedges. I'll add a flat steel wedge if needed later. Most of my axes have no steel wedges.

Also in the top down shot the bit appears to curl toward the right. If that's real and not just a photo artifact then I would straighten that edge with a file.

In the last photo of the poll the shoulders seem a tiny bit wide. They might get scarred in the split.

Again, these are all extremely minor. I'd be please to use that axe just as it is. I only mention these things because you asked.
 
@Square_peg Thank you for your honesty and the kind words. Good to hear even the nitpicky things. I trimmed the shoulders down a decent bit. Might do so again after letting this BLO dry and getting out to use her a bit. I thought the shoulders were still a little wide. I also just recently started using these round wedges. Not sure if I'm a fan yet either. They will have to prove themselves over time and after a many of hour of use. I've never had problems with wooden wedges but where I live I can't find any black walnut or much of any other type of wedge besides oak. Then the wedges from Lowe's but that is about it. Do you know of anywhere online that has decent wedges? Also the bit does indeed curve right. Not as bad as the chili peppers I hit while playing golf but it does curve. I do believe I will have to trim the shoulders to keep any scarring from happening though. I appreciate your quick reply too.

-Rick

T2 Tappin'
 
252chevyboyz said:
Do you know of anywhere online that has decent wedges?
Click to expand...

Thrane Axe & Saw sells wedges. I just make my own but I have good power tools to do that. I was just thinking about the Pulaski I hung the other day. Used an elm wedge a cut a couple years ago. The grain had raised substantially on each side. Elm has such a coarse intertwined grain. It naturally leaves a rough surface.

If you make you own wedges I think it's best if the grain crosses the wedge in the short direction. It has more compressive strength that way.

5.jpg
 
@square_peg thank you for the help on finding somewhere with some decent wedges. Maybe if I can branch out to get some different woods I can attempt to make my own. What are your main power tools making wedges? That elm wedge looks right nice. Probably will only get better with time

T2 Tappin'
 
I'll cut them on either the band saw or a 12" compound slide saw. It's a little risky but I actually prefer using the slide saw.
 
Except for the best fitting gloves I can't use an axe with gloves on ... I hate working in gloves in general, but I'm just saying, it may not be the handle's fault, it may just be personal preference. In any case, thinning the handle is a good move IMO, but the issue with the swell with most new handles I encounter is that you'd have to add wood to improve them. That was a pretty good looking handle, if a little thick of course, but probably much of the original swell was left as dust on the factory floor. Another option with wedges, and how I make mine, is to just split them out a little thick, then belt sand (or whatever) them to the desired shape.
 
Good job. Looks wonderfully usable to me! Store bought handles these days are so club-like crude that concerted efforts to thin out and make the handle more comfortable is a real plus. Your selection of handle with regard to optimal grain orientation (least possible runout) looks to be 'bang on'. If the hang does accidentally work loose through shrinkage you're going to regret having installed that hollow conical wedge!
Over the past few years there's been increasing agreement on here about the benefits of trimming handles somewhat proud of the eye (1/4", tops) rather than flush cut such as on factory hangs. One) it allows the uncompressed wood and wedge to 'swell over' as cheap insurance against a head flying off and Two) it enables future whittling to expose wedges to pliers or vice-grips should there ever be a need.
 
@square_peg I have a table saw and then some hand power tools. Don't have the biggest assortment of big power tools. Might just be better off buying some from Thrane. They really have some nice looking inventory.

@cityofthesouth I work in mechanics gloves when it's been cold like it has. To me those are thick gloves for working. I usually don't ever work in gloves unless it's rather cold to try to help my hands not crack. Thanks for the kind words on the handle. Wish I could find a belt sander at a garage sell. Thanks for the thoughts also.

@beachlogger the next couple I hang once I find some more heads and use wooden wedges I'll leave a little (1/8-1/4") sticking out for sure. I appreciate the suggestion and the thought.


-Rick

T2 Tappin'
 
@300six thank you for the honesty and critique. I've never used these round wedges before and I think with the lack of adjustment is going to come back and bite me. I saw them in my local shop so I thought I'd give them a try for $0.79. A cheap experiment but could be more expensive if I have to hang the head again if it get loose. Appreciate the kind words on the handle though. I tried to pick a handle that had the least amount of run-out as possible. I have seen the wood swell over on the extra 1/4" sticking out before. It really help the head not work loose after hours of hard use. I don't plan on buying anymore of these round wedges except for maybe hammers or something of the sorts. My next few hangs will be with locust, black walnut, and maybe osage orange wedges from Thrane. Looking forward to getting back to all wooden wedges. They look so much better once you get them sanded and oiled down. Thanks again for your thoughts on the subject and the help.

-Rick

T2 Tappin'
 
Noticed the shipping with Thrane is a little steep at $15 for a $12 order of 9 wedges. Might have to put that order on the back burner until I hear back from them via email.

T2 Tappin'
 
252chevyboyz said:
Noticed the shipping with Thrane is a little steep at $15 for a $12 order of 9 wedges. Might have to put that order on the back burner until I hear back from them via email.

T2 Tappin'
Click to expand...

House Handle also sells wedges.

https://www.househandle.com/products-3.html#wedgepacks

I have some out in the shop, didn't really pay much attention to what kind of wood, probably poplar or hickory wouldn't surprise me, all the scraps of it they must have around.

There's a good argument to be made for both soft and hard wedges. I usually use soft ones, but a hard one set well below the top of the handle (like 1/8") can key in and not come loose if it's harder than the handle.

Home Depot has a Ridgid bench spindle/belt sander that is pretty handy, I use one a lot with a coarse belt for reshaping handles, among other things.

Good looking mods to the handle, btw.
 
@serotina thank for the kind words and the link to another store for wedges. I picked some up from Thrane after talking to someone at the shop over the phone. Thanks for the tip to set hard wedges below the top of the axe. I don't have a home depot around me or near but if I see one while traveling around I'll stop in to take a look at that Ridgid model. I got house handle bookmarked for a later date no doubt though.

After speaking to Nick at Thrane over the phone I placed an order for some Osage Orange, Black Walnut, and Locust wedges. Looking forward to getting these in the mail and putting some to use 😀. Some of the best customer service I've experienced with Thrane. Something that is hard to find these days

T2 Tappin'
 
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@square_peg He is indeed. It is very rare these days to speak with someone inside a company while your trying to make an order. Will be a returning customer to Thrane for some time to come. Can't beat the service.

I will post of some pics of the handle once this BLO dries. It has been taking its time drying for sure. It is worth the wait though. Love the finish the oil puts on the wood

T2 Tappin'
 
Looks pretty good to me.
But since you asked, I like a smooth transition from the handle into the eye of the axe. IMO the handle should not be wider or taller than the eye at any point. (well a little is OK, as in a couple mm's each way, nothing abrupt)

The whole shoulder should be thinned down to meet the eye of the axe. In your example I would remove the "hump" from the back of the handle/shoulder, and reduce the side to side thickness (only a little bit) below the eye as well.

here's an example from one I did which should help make sense of the above.
Note there is no "hump" or abrupt shoulder below the head :thumbup:
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IMG_1413_zpsiuzhzszo.jpg
 
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@nzedge I really do like that smooth transition. I know I'm not done modifying it yet. Going out and splitting some wood up tomorrow so I'll give it another run with the current mods to see what I do next. Might be shaving down the handle to make a smooth transition.

Got two questions.

Would making it thinner near the eye make the handle any weaker? Still learning a lot about handles.

Also anyone know why pre made handles are thick near the eye? Maybe add looks or strength? Maybe to fool proof it?

T2 Tappin'
 
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