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Critique my ostrich leg sheath

Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Messages
405
This is my first sheath with exotic. I went with thin backing to use as casual ware. Seems ok for that but I will use 5/6 oz. next time. I used 5/6 oz. for the belt loop. Lots of things could be better. Let me know what you think. One big problem is when I dyed the edges with Febings pro oil dye it bled (wicked) right onto the ostrich. What should I have done to avoid this?

Thanks for your critique. John

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http://s1288.photobucket.com/user/darkmatter35/media/IMG_3254_zpswei9u53j.jpg.html

http://s1288.photobucket.com/user/darkmatter35/media/IMG_3255_zpspllyhg3f.jpg.html

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http://s1288.photobucket.com/user/darkmatter35/media/IMG_3253_zps3ijftezc.jpg.html
 
I really like the leather--what a nice look! I can't see the edge dye bleeding from the picture...how did you apply it?
 
Short and sweet. It's really a very fine job. You should be very proud of it. Don't see the wicked dye problem from the photos so it may not be as bad as you think. When it thoroughly dries, it may disappear and certainly with use it will all fade to nothing. Just a great job! (Great job includes design, materials, execution and stitching.)

Paul
 
Thanks for a positive critique, It really comes from learning and practicing. Most of the learning comes from this forum. The dye wicking is minor but it is there and like you said Paul it may fade. I applied the dye with a dauber. Also I think I will get a little thinner thread for the lining. If anyone has any things that I could better let me know.
Thanks for looking, John
 
. I applied the dye with a dauber.

Sometimes when I have a tight spot or thin edge that needs edge dye I'll use a Q-tip. The Q-tip doesn't work nearly as well as a dauber, but for me it lends more control in a tight spot. You probably could also use an artist's brush for a little more precision, as well. Just my two cents, for what it's worth. (But I'm with Paul--I really don't see the bleeding).
 
Gorgeous work John!! If you're gonna dye the edges make your own dauber out of a heavy felt. That way you can make the applicator edge about 3/8"s wide and apply the dye much more accurately. Tandy use to sell these daubers as well as the round wooly ones years ago. I had little use for the round woolies but did indeed love those felt ones for dyeing edges. They worked and ya didn't have the bleed over/wicking problems of the round woolies. The felt (and I'm going by memory here from 20 years ago) was probably 3/8" x 3/4" by 1/4" thick. It was pretty firm felt and the wire handle looped around the center of the felt giving you two sides to apply with.
 
Thanks for the great ideas for edge dying, I'm going to try them all. I searched felt on the net and it has some interesting properties, ( Wool felt has excellent wicking properties. It can absorb several times its weight in oil, and when used as a lubrication wick, it will supply small amounts of oil at a uniform rate. Pressed wool felt has excellent solvent resistance and stability in oil. SAE wool felt is unaffected by sunlight and maintains its original form after long periods of stress.).
Lots of good advice got me thinking about Anthony, a member that I haven't heard from for a long while. I hope he is ok. Anyway we started working leather about the same time and he would ask a lot of questions, I sure did learn a lot from all those questions.
Thanks, take care, John
 
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