CRK Sebenza 21, Hinderer XM-18 and Strider SNG

Bluesummers

Bluesummers

Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
656
My take on these three knives in a few words.

Sebenza 21- Basic. OCD's wet dream.

Hinderer XM-18- Robust. OCD's dream.

Strider SNG- Tacticool. OCD's nightmare.

More words.

I bought a Sebenza first. Thought it was going to be my end all edc knife. It wasn't. What you hear is what you get and the majority of what you hear is positive. This is the case with my experience with the Sebenza.

Next I bought a Hinderer XM-18. First thought was I can't believe I spent that much for a knife... even after buying a few CRK's. I got my hands on it and after holding the Sebenza and Umnumzaan I did not like the way the Hinderer XM-18 felt in my hand... at first. After carrying it for a while it feels really good in the hand and better so than the Sebenza. Fit and Finish is up there with the Sebenza but imo slightly less.

Finally I broke down and got a Strider SNG. Even after hearing all of the issues that comes along with owning a Strider folder. My brand new Strider SNG has some of these issues. The blade was not centered. The fit and finish was not the best compared to the other two. My Strider SNG has developed LOCK ROCK. Why do so many Striders have this problem? I think it is because there is only 1 stop pin actually doing anything. So now I get to send my knife in so they can fit a bigger stop pin to fix this problem. Why not use a bigger stop pin in the first place? Why not have the original stop pin touch the g10 side? I like my Strider SNG. I think it is built tough and it gives us the "mall ninja" knife that is okay too own but it has more faults imo.

 
Yeah its crazy. I share your feelings. Sebenza is near perfect (w really no competition IMO). Hinderer seems a little pricey, especially for what you get with an already expensive Sebenza. LOVE SnGs, but mine too has lock rock. It still seems like a sturdy lockup, but I'm considering sending mine in as well. Seems like Strider's warranty service is good, but the lack of communication is BS. ...that and taking 3-6 weeks to get to your knife. In business, EXISTING customers are the most important.

I think the lock rock is due to the major curve in the blade tang/lockup. I do t think it will fail though. I just picked up a minty fresh SmF... Goin on 6 weeks with it. I'm liking it better than the SnG.
 
Did you clean the blade tang and lockbar where they meet? Should take care of the lock rock.

Personally, I'm gonna get rid of my Umnumzaan and probably end up with another Strider:)
 
That rock lock goes away the more it wears into place. At least all of my Striders have. Clean the lock and tang area with some alcohol on a q-tip too to help until it wears in.
 
I'd have to agree with everything you've stated "in a few words".
I like them all enough to keep them, but if I had to choose it'd be the Large 21 for me.

IMG_2331.jpg

TheTrinity9.jpg

TheTrinity6.jpg
 
For those of you that like the Strider, what makes it so special? It seems like the ZT framelocks have better tolerances, design, steel, ergos, and customer service, for half the price. I guess they look cool, but for that price you could get tolerances like CRK has. Am I missing something? I haven't seen anything on paper or in person that seems to justify them.
 
I'm just not getting this whole lock rock thing. I've had my SNG for 5 or 6 years now, and the lock has always been perfect. Is something preventing the lock bar from traveling across the blade tang?
 
I think it happens on the CC more than Lego models. I carry a lot of CC models in the SMF and SnG variety. It is that slight up and down movement or slip on the lock face as the titanium bar wears into the arc shape of the tang cut-out. I goes away with more use or Strider will fix it for you if it bugs you a lot. Part of the reason that it locks this way is so if you are hard cutting, the knife never wedges in so far it doesn't unlock.
 
I agree with the OP's assessment..........

It's funny that these 3 knife brands get compared so much. The only thing they have in common is that they are all expensive production knives made from similar materials.

All three have their strong points, negative issues, fanbois and detractors.

To me the three styles are very different and in the end it is very likely that most people would gravitate towards one or the other because of that. Personally I prefer to carry the sebenza, I have tried the others but they do not feel right to me. I like all three enough to own them just not to use as an EDC.

So in the end it will always come down to what YOU like, no point in asking others unless you are looking for someone else to justify your choice.
 
The problem is that my lock bar doesn't go further across the tang without added pressure/force to stop the lock rock. I can push the lock bar further to stop the lock rock but that is not its normal locked position. When I pull back on the open blade against the stop pin the lock bar will spring back to its normal resting position where there is lock rock. I don't think this would happen if there was another point of contact with the stop pin. Only utilizing one side of the stop pin just doesn't sit well with me.

In a normal locked position the lock bar it is at 40% with lock rock.

In forced locked position after I squeeze the knife so that there isn't any lock rock the lock bar it is at 60%.

In any case I need a bigger stop pin or the lock bar needs to be bent more toward the g10 side.
 
While we're on this subject...... Does Chris Reeve replace stop pins with larger ones, when a Sebenza's lock starts to wear too far? My lock bar is just about all the way over on my large Classic Sebenza?
 
So is there any side to side movement? If there is and your bull pivot is loose, then that might be half the problem. That or the lock bar doesn't have enough bend. If you own a Strider then the PSD spanner bit is a good investment for care and cleaning. Mick has posted that the lock bar on the G10 side doesn't need to make contact. Half of mine do and half don't. You can always send it in and just EDC that Sebbie until it comes back. It sucks to have to do that, but it happens from time to time on anything...a new car, TV, home appliance..
 
Buzzbait said:
While we're on this subject...... Does Chris Reeve replace stop pins with larger ones, when a Sebenza's lock starts to wear too far? My lock bar is just about all the way over on my large Classic Sebenza?
Click to expand...

No, they don't cheap out. They will replace the whole locking side of the knife if it develops play. I dont think Ive ever heard of this happening on a Sebenza tho.
 
Bluesummers said:
The problem is that my lock bar doesn't go further across the tang without added pressure/force to stop the lock rock. I can push the lock bar further to stop the lock rock but that is not its normal locked position. When I pull back on the open blade against the stop pin the lock bar will spring back to its normal resting position where there is lock rock. I don't think this would happen if there was another point of contact with the stop pin. Only utilizing one side of the stop pin just doesn't sit well with me.

In a normal locked position the lock bar it is at 40% with lock rock.

In forced locked position after I squeeze the knife so that there isn't any lock rock the lock bar it is at 60%.

In any case I need a bigger stop pin or the lock bar needs to be bent more toward the g10 side.
Click to expand...

Have you cleaned the mating surface? It will stop the rock. This is common when breaking them in.
 
frontline29 said:
No, they don't cheap out. They will replace the whole locking side of the knife if it develops play. I dont think Ive ever heard of this happening on a Sebenza tho.
Click to expand...

It's an oldie and well used. An old BG-42 model. I just want to make sure that they don't replace the blade instead.
 
I had a strider that developed lock rock well after the break in period. Mine already had the bigger stop pin on the ti side. I requested that they put new equally sized stop pins on when I sent sent it in. It came back to me with a rock solid early lock up, brand new stop pins that were equal in size, and sharp as hell. I have no idea how they restored the early lock up without putting an even larger stop pin on the blade. Strider is great, just make sure you use Fed Ex!!!
 
ssblood said:
Have you cleaned the mating surface? It will stop the rock. This is common when breaking them in.
Click to expand...

Lock bar does not touch the blade tang. What exactly am I supposed to clean that will make them touch again?

I'll have to send it in. It is unfortunate that it developed but I knew what I was getting into when I bought it.
 
Bluesummers said:
Lock bar does not touch the blade tang. What exactly am I supposed to clean that will make them touch again?

I'll have to send it in. It is unfortunate that it developed but I knew what I was getting into when I bought it.
Click to expand...

You can always pull it apart and tweek it youself. As long as you put all three screws and the pivot back in place then it should be fine. I've taken mine apart with no issues.
Just don't strip any screws or wreck the pivot head. That is why I say a spanner is a great tool to keep the Striders tight and working good.
If you are not comfortable doing that, then just send it in.
 
I don't have a problem taking the knife apart but I'm not going to try bending the lock bar myself. If they said to go ahead and fix it yourself I would bend away but since it would void the warranty I'm not going down that route.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top