- Joined
- Dec 26, 2010
- Messages
- 1,091
Well, here she is. My priciest knife to-date. My first fixed-blade. I am in serious like with this beast.
I bought it from Caine last week (thanks man!). He says he's never used it and that he bought it new at a Florida gun show in 1993-1994, so at this point the Shadow 1 had been around for a while (according to Nyefmaker's sticky
). 20 years later, the knife is in fantastic shape. The edge looks factory to me (at least similar in profile to what I've seen on my Sebenza's, but almost a mirror edge), but sharper by far than any CRK I've handled. The coating is even and attractive (I think it's Gun-Kote?). The round steel grip is interesting. It doesn't automatically orient the blade in your hand, but if I choke up a bit I can use the guard to help. Even though the large ricasso doesn't have a choil, it allows me to choke up past the guard for more control. I'm either going to have to wear gloves while using this knife heavily, or I'm going to have to suffer through some blisters and build up callouses. I'm thinking gloves. The balance is good, so the heft doesn't seem awkward.
The sheath seems well made, if basic. It does show signs of age. No leather rot or cracking, but the plating on the rivet heads near the opening has bubbled and peeled, exposing what I assume to be non-stainless steel. The copper/brass(?) snap on the securement strap also shows some age/patina. It seems that something was done to the backs of the securement snap and belt loop snap so that they don't scratch up the blade. It's nice that the sheath is symmetrical, allowing options for edge orientation. The only problems with the sheath so far is that in addition to the stitching holding the stacked leather edge together, it appears that a lot of waxy glue was used. This builds up on the blade and is a real pain to get off. I spent some time "cycling" the knife in the sheath, in both orientations, while I watched TV yesterday, scraping off the waxy-goo buildup periodically and it seems to be diminishing. With each cleaning it, sheathing and un-sheathing becomes easier. Since there's only one carry option with this sheath, I might look into making or buying a custom kydex sheath that could be carried/mounted in various orientations.
Time for some questions/issues I could use some advice on.
The blade is a little over 1/4" at the spine, but it has a very deep hollow grind. I haven't been able to find much on the web about people using their CRK OPK's. Most of what I found was some very controversial discussion of the Green Beret's S30V and it's "shortcomings". To me, this blade's shape and size (almost 9" from guard to tip) makes it a camp knife, so what type of punishment should I feel comfortable subjecting it to? I assume this is A2, which has a good reputation for toughness. Should I be able to chop and baton hardwoods with confidence? I don't intend to abuse it with ridiculous sheet metal and brick cutting tests, but I do want to use it. I just don't want to have to coddle it and tiptoe around with it. If I ever feel the urge to play tacticool and test some limits, I'll buy something cheaper to be foolish with.
My other question has to do with a slight, but noticeable, curve to the blade. Holding the knife, with the spine facing me, and the tip pointed away from me, it bends slightly to the left. Is this a usual possible condition for CRK OPK's or fixed blades in general? I assume that the blade was machined prior to heat treat, so maybe they get slightly warped? I can't imagine that it would be detrimental to the effectiveness of the knife, but it makes me curious.
Thanks for reading and for any advice or comments!


I bought it from Caine last week (thanks man!). He says he's never used it and that he bought it new at a Florida gun show in 1993-1994, so at this point the Shadow 1 had been around for a while (according to Nyefmaker's sticky

The sheath seems well made, if basic. It does show signs of age. No leather rot or cracking, but the plating on the rivet heads near the opening has bubbled and peeled, exposing what I assume to be non-stainless steel. The copper/brass(?) snap on the securement strap also shows some age/patina. It seems that something was done to the backs of the securement snap and belt loop snap so that they don't scratch up the blade. It's nice that the sheath is symmetrical, allowing options for edge orientation. The only problems with the sheath so far is that in addition to the stitching holding the stacked leather edge together, it appears that a lot of waxy glue was used. This builds up on the blade and is a real pain to get off. I spent some time "cycling" the knife in the sheath, in both orientations, while I watched TV yesterday, scraping off the waxy-goo buildup periodically and it seems to be diminishing. With each cleaning it, sheathing and un-sheathing becomes easier. Since there's only one carry option with this sheath, I might look into making or buying a custom kydex sheath that could be carried/mounted in various orientations.
Time for some questions/issues I could use some advice on.
The blade is a little over 1/4" at the spine, but it has a very deep hollow grind. I haven't been able to find much on the web about people using their CRK OPK's. Most of what I found was some very controversial discussion of the Green Beret's S30V and it's "shortcomings". To me, this blade's shape and size (almost 9" from guard to tip) makes it a camp knife, so what type of punishment should I feel comfortable subjecting it to? I assume this is A2, which has a good reputation for toughness. Should I be able to chop and baton hardwoods with confidence? I don't intend to abuse it with ridiculous sheet metal and brick cutting tests, but I do want to use it. I just don't want to have to coddle it and tiptoe around with it. If I ever feel the urge to play tacticool and test some limits, I'll buy something cheaper to be foolish with.
My other question has to do with a slight, but noticeable, curve to the blade. Holding the knife, with the spine facing me, and the tip pointed away from me, it bends slightly to the left. Is this a usual possible condition for CRK OPK's or fixed blades in general? I assume that the blade was machined prior to heat treat, so maybe they get slightly warped? I can't imagine that it would be detrimental to the effectiveness of the knife, but it makes me curious.
Thanks for reading and for any advice or comments!