mafeya said:
I followed all the steps but now I have a blunt knife with what seems to be like a bur in the front.
If you look at the edge of the knife you can see the scratches from the stones leave a gap across the edge, this is because the edge was initially ground on a wheel which made it concave or hollow ground - generally you won't get stable edge behavior until this hollow is removed. You are also hitting the full height of the edge which means honing on the Sharpmaker will be a slow process.
If you want to stick to the Sharpmaker then start with the corners of the brown rods and hone until the edge forms a full burr. At this point it will slice paper readily and shave with one side of the blade and not the other. If the bevel doesn't closely match the Sharpmaker's angle this could take awhile, 10-15 minutes isn't uncommon. You may also have to clean the rods as they get heavily loaded as they will stop cutting.
Only now when the edges meet clean from the corners of the medium rods do you switch to the flats of the medium rods and then to the fine hones if desired. While this seems like a long time it is only the first sessions which takes awhile because you are setting the edge to match the Sharpmaker. Once the edge has the right shape then subsequent sharpenings are much faster. You can speed the process up by using an x-coarse hone to grind the intial edge to the right shape or provide a relief.
The tip of the blade also changed shape ...
Most tips are ground at a more obtuse angle than the rest of the blade so when you use a Sharpmaker or any jig which is preset at a lower angle you will induce the edge in the tip to change angle. If you grind heavily into one side and not the other you may see the effect of this relief grind as the bevel will get wider on one side. The grind will even up once you establish the same relief grind on the other side assuming the primary grind is actually symmetric anyway.
It also isn't uncommon for people to have a left/right bias when sharpening because you judge angles differently on your left/right side so most hand sharpened knives have slight differences anyway. I have seen much larger tip variances than what you have pictured even on high end knives like Dozier for example. It is common to have the edges ground at 10-15 degrees on one side and 15-20 on the other and if there is any difference in sweep they become even more asymmetric.
In short, it isn't a big problem, establish a sharp edge with the corners of the medium rods and then refine it by proceeding to the flat and then the fine stones. You may want to do a search for relief grinds and micro-bevels as these will make the process more efficient.
-Cliff
