My Randall Clinton Special was similarly "oriented" to its large guard, and certainly could not be adjusted... My Randall Model 18 was also the same, but even worse:
In addition, this 18 had the blade base slightly offset towards one side of the handle, and the blade was not parallel to the handle looking down on the spine...
On the Clinton, the center grind was commendably straight and symmetrical, and the edges thin, so I did not consider the "canted" edge "orientation" to the guard to be a huge deal beaker. The handle being a one-way deep finger grooved type, the downward cutting edge did slant towards the back of my right hand, which would be the wrong way to help whittling... I did discover I did not like broad blade daggers anyway: It felt like a large "leaf" made of metal.
Almost all daggers I have seen had symmetry issues: My first Al Mar Shadow IV (a numbered pre-prod) had terribly off-center grinds that spun off near the tip on one side, plus an awful needle-like fragile point. My second (also pre-prod) Shadow IV was much better, but is slightly "canted" to its plastic handle, like the early Mark IIs: The difference is, I don't think the 3 degree canting was here intentional! But it is good enough to keep.
A typical dagger grind flaw on one of my two Guardians IIs was that the "losange" frontal view of the blade was "flatter" on one side, making the center grind spine line "taller" on one side than the other. This led to an off-centre point that was kind of made "centered" by
curving the edges near the tip(!): That still left the tip asymmetrically "flat" on one side...: I got rid of that after getting a much better Guardian II later.
The dagger is the most difficult pattern to get perfect, and virtually
none of them are, or at least not while being thin-edged, since adding inherent sharpness to the mix compounds the grinding difficulty many times over... Just imagine that a dagger tip requires
four separate broad surfaces to pitch inward at the same time and in perfect unison... Get this wrong on one surface, and the tip is asymmetrical viewed edge-on, often overly thin as a result. Only my second Guardian II got this edge-on "swelled" point taper (the slight "swelling" allowing for better tip strength compared to a straight sided point taper) seemingly perfect, yet its center grind straightness is only marginal.
Your edge grinds looked thin, so that is good, but I understand your disappointment. If it is thin-edged sharp, with straight and symmetrical center grinds, it could still be unusually well made compared to most... Be careful to over focus on one issue, only to get a new one that is worse elsewhere!
Gaston