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Cross-Pinning ?.

Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
373
I know that this is required for Competition Axes , but I notice that it is not generally used in ordinary user Axes.
To me it seems to be an excellent idea , I have not used it in my rehangs yet , perhaps I should start using cross-pinning.
The questions are :-

A Wood or a Metal cross-pin.
A large (say 1/4 inch) , or a small (say 1/16 inch) diameter cross-pin.
Should the cross-pin go through the Wedge or should it be installed below the Wedge.
Any other advice ?.

What are the thoughts on this ?.

Thank you.
 
I think cross pinning can be a good idea. I’ve had some heads that just did not want to stay tight, even with different handles. Maybe the inside taper was too shallow, idk. Regardless, if competition axes require them, any rules governing that would be a good place to start. I would think a 1/8” metal pin through the wedge would work just fine.
 
I can see the reasoning if surrounded by people, like in a competition, or on something like a pickaroon, that's pulling against the hang.

I struggle enough with hanging an axe, I'd hate to add another step.
 
So it's like an OSHA thing up there?
i believe so, i heard it from mr buckin billy ray on why he only used certain axes regularly
say what you will about some occupational safety, but i dont think its a terrible issue, it doesnt interfere with the stamp usually and it doesnt hurt the hangability of the axe in general, but it does bother some collectors
 
i believe so, i heard it from mr buckin billy ray on why he only used certain axes regularly
say what you will about some occupational safety, but i dont think its a terrible issue, it doesnt interfere with the stamp usually and it doesnt hurt the hangability of the axe in general, but it does bother some collectors
I certainly understand the safety aspect of it, definitely seen my fair share of heads go flying over the years.

I just dread rehanging any of my axes, throw in needing to pin one on top of fitting it and I'd be all sorts of bamboozled.
 
I would never pin a axe head to the haft except for competition. I was competing back when the pining rule started, and it was done strictly for crowd safety. I no longer have any competition axes, but I can tell you that some of what I had, unused for years, had loosened when I sold them a few years ago due to moving them to different climatic zones. A pined axe is just as useless as an unpinned axe if the head is loose, it is just a lot more trouble to make it useful again.
 
Ultimately I find the best solution for tightening up a weather-loosened hang, short of fully pulling the wedge and seating a fresh one, is a dowel wedge. Just zip a little hole in the top with a drill equal to the end diameter of the dowel wedge, then drive it home. Expands in every direction and you can add more of them in the exact same spot if you have to since it's all wood.

Cross-pinning is mostly an insurance matter, as it takes a lot for an axe that was hung well and inspected before use to go truly flying off the handle in use. Events require them because of potential liability but unless you're swinging in an area where a head even has a *chance* of flying and hitting someone they're really quite unnecessary in my estimation. If you ever began using them, however, I'd try to have the hole as low on the eye as possible and always make the pin the same size from head to head so a single roll pin punch could be used to drive them out when needed. Generally a small pin is used as it doesn't need to be large to retain the loose head, and it's liable to weaken the handle if a large one is used.
 
Ultimately I find the best solution for tightening up a weather-loosened hang, short of fully pulling the wedge and seating a fresh one, is a dowel wedge. Just zip a little hole in the top with a drill equal to the end diameter of the dowel wedge, then drive it home. Expands in every direction and you can add more of them in the exact same spot if you have to since it's all wood.
I've actually done something similar using license plate screws. Might not be pretty, but it's worked so far.
 
Thanks for all the replies they are really appreciated.

So far , none of my hangs have loosened up (touch wood) , I understand that the cross-pin will not tighten a loose head up but is just some sort of insurance for the head flying of for whatever reason.
Unfortunately unforseen accidents do happen (Murphy's Law) , so I still think that cross-pinning is a good idea.

FortyTwoBlades your advice has been noted and is appreciated , I will be using your suggestion on my next hang as I also believe that the cross-pin should be installed below the wedge.

I think that cross-pinning will work well on axes that have shallow eyes similar to the Hudson Bay patterns as there is not a lot of space for the handle to grip the axe head.

Keep Well everyone.
 
I've actually done something similar using license plate screws. Might not be pretty, but it's worked so far.

Is this one of yours?

OeatYyx.jpg


😆
From this infamous thread- https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/any-unusual-wedges.941940/
 
Ring shanks, concrete nails, screwdriver bits, a professional that knew his way around a job site.

Yes, picked up a few years ago at a Flea market, the “best” I’ve found, I doubt I’ll ever find a Hatchet with so many extras ever again....

AigG5am.jpg


I think this would have benefited from being pinned, but not sure there would have been space enough for one! 😆
 
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