cross-threaded pocket clip screws

T

theron

Joined
Apr 20, 2009
Messages
207
I think I cross-threaded the screws when I put the clip back on my arc-angel :rolleyes:. They just spin now.

Maybe some loctite would work?
Theron

P.S. No need to worry if you read this, Dan.. it's my other spear point AA I recently got ;)
 
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Sounds like a thread insert is called for, e.g. a Helicoil kit.

Don't know the thread size, but you can use the bolt to determine the thread size with the index most loose bolt sellers seem to have near the bolts. Last time I was at a Lowes they had a screw-in thread index near the loose bolt drawers.
 
Thanks orthogonal1 :) I will look into this. I really did not want to have to use any loctite either! ;)
 
I just went to Lowes, I checked the screw size and it was about 1.5 mm. they didn't have any screw's that small. :(
 
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I think I am gonna call Cold Steel Monday and make sure. Hopefully they will know. That's a neat link! That should provide some real useful info, thanks orthogonal1 :)
 
Locktite would work. Just use the strongest one, red I think?? Any way I have used them in the past to do the grip bushings on 1911 45s. The stripped bushings are pretty common inherent design problem with this model. Locktite isa very common fix with anyone who has played with this style pistol for any length of time.
 
hunterfisher808 said:
Locktite would work. Just use the strongest one, red I think?? Any way I have used them in the past to do the grip bushings on 1911 45s. The stripped bushings are pretty common inherent design problem with this model. Locktite isa very common fix with anyone who has played with this style pistol for any length of time.
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Remind me not to buy a gun from you and your friends :):).

I thought about the permenent thread lockers, usually red in color, but my experience with it has been so-so as far as permenance goes.

The issue I saw is the pulling force on the bolt and the space caused by cross-threading. Then, too, the value of an out of production, somewhat sought after knife.

I looked at some of the thread forming compounds as I've used these, also. Couldn't find any that specifically noted working with Ti.

If it was mine, I'd fix it right and be done with it. I'd take my time as Ti is a grippy metal to machine/cut and install a thread insert with a new bolt.
 
Well, you need to find out for sure which set of threads is stripped--the screw or the hole.

Then you can choose a repair technique.

If the screw is stripped, you may be able to "clean" the threads in the hole with a thread tap, and install a new screw. Sometimes; if the screws are short, there will be good threads left at the bottom of the hole that will work with a longer screw.

If the hole is stripped, you need to renew the threads somehow. You can go to the next size up, or try to use an insert of some kind; helicoil or threaded insert. In either case the hole will need to be enlarged past the next screw size. If you don't care about whether the knife is all metric or all US, then that about doubles your size choices.

Loctite is a thread locker, not a thread replacement.
 
I'm thinking longer screws might be something to consider. Whatever the case, I really don't want to mess this knife up since it is discontinued. Even if it wasn't Cold Steel only offered a one year warranty on it. I really appreciate everyone's advice. :):)
 
Some companies will send replacement screws, even if it's no longer under warranty.

If not, you might look at knifekits.com .... they sell replacement screws under knifemaking parts.

cbw
 
What I would do is get a drill bit one size up and drill out the holes, then retap them the appropriate size for that hole. Get screws that size and you're good to go. If you've never done that kind of work find someone that has.
 
hunterfisher808 said:
Locktite would work. Just use the strongest one, red I think?? Any way I have used them in the past to do the grip bushings on 1911 45s. The stripped bushings are pretty common inherent design problem with this model. Locktite isa very common fix with anyone who has played with this style pistol for any length of time.
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I think I will actually end up using some threadlocker of some type but I have to find out which is best for such small screws. It would be just my luck if I put the wrong kind and have a real problem on my hands then :s:confused:
 
The only thing I'd trust would be epoxy, but I'd still rather drill and tap the holes.
 
J-B Weld or equivalent if the hole is stripped, then tap, or go up a size and use new screws. If it's the screw, then clean the threads in the hole and use new screws.

Greg
 
I can't tell if the screw holes in the handle are stripped, if the screws themselves are ruined now, or what. I just know they wont grab. Therefore I can't put it back together. I suppose I could go clip-less, which would make it ugly,.. don't wanna do that. Something will work out eventually. I don't know what I am going to try. I just want to do it right. Again though I appreciate all the advice and suggestions. I'm off to work now. BBL :D :D
 
orthogonal1 said:
I think part of the problem is people confuse "stripped" with "cross threaded".
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Good point.
Cross thread: To screw together two threaded pieces without aligning the threads.
Cross threading also can cause the threads to get stripped ( be removed )from the pressure you apply when cross treading.
Stainless steel screws are more prone to this problem especially when gauling occurs.
It is always best to start the screw counter clockwise a turn or so an you can feel it snap into the mating thread. At this point go clockwise and continue as long as no resistance is felt. If pressure is felt start over. Coarse threads seem to have less of an issue.
When checking the threads on a small screw place a piece of white paper behind the threads and examine their condition looking at the threads with the paper as a backdrop. It helps IMO
Good luck
 
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