Cru Forge V steel

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ninpo532

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Jan 11, 2011
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I have been doing some looking around and saw a lot of good info on here about Cru Forge V. Does anyone know why Crucible doesn't have it on their website? I just ordered some From USAknifemakers (not too far where I just came from).

It looks really good on paper. But, since it is a Hypereuctoid(?) steel, is there a soak time and if so (which I imagine there would be) how long is it? And has anyone had any problems with using a fast quench oil during their quench? I have read it works great with all oils but, it would be interesting to see why.

Oh, and how would most knife makers compare this with their other steels like 1095, 5160, O1 or other forging steels (for a camp knife or utility knife)?
 
I don't think it's in regular production, just limited runs. Also, Crucible isn't exactly known for keeping their website up to date.

The added vanadium gives it nice wear resistance over 10xx series steels. It also makes it a little more effort in finishing.

I don't have the heat treat info on-hand, but I believe it's available through USA Knifemakers. I seem to recall a 10-15 minute soak. If you're heat treating in an oven, it won't hurt even if it doesn't require it.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. I guess since this is a blade steel it would be limited in production to some extent.

Ok, since it has better in wear resistance over the 10XX series, how much more so than Aldos 1084 FG?

I saw the data sheet you are referring to but, don't know where thats at. I would be using a gas forge for my heat treating. So, this would (Until I get a Thermo Couple) by eye.

Thanks again...
 
Can't say that I've used Aldo's 1084, but the CruforgeV that I used was considerably harder to hand finish than any of the 1080 or 1084 stock I have. I've only done two blades out of the stuff and have not done performance testing vs other steels. Hopefully Matt will be along tomorrow to give his impressions re Aldo's 1084 vs Cruforge, he's used more of it than me.
 
Yeah, I don't see a whole lot of people really using this stuff since is seems relatively new. I just heard about this steel the first time the other day.

I've been out of the loop for awhile. The last time I was researching knives, steel and forging was back in the late 90's and the only pages up at the time were Bob Engnath's page and the Sword Forum magazine.

And back then, Admiral steel was the shit. and now well, its just $#!+.

I really appreciate guys like you helping guys like me out. Thanks again!
 
CruForgeV steel got lost during the Crucible bankruptcy. It is a regular production steel. They have not run a new melt because they have 40,000 pounds in inventory. It sells consistently and reports back from knifemakers have been good.

Here is heat treat information, a table comparing CruForgeV with other steels and a link to the data sheet:
http://www.alphaknifesupply.com/zdata-bladesteelC-CruForgeV.htm
 
Just got two pieces from AKS, and am looking forward to trying it out. :)
 
Actually, when quenched in Parks #50 and tempered at 400F, it is ridiculously hard to hand finish beyond say 400 grit.:eek: It scoffs at sandpaper, even really good stuff like Norton Black Ice.:D I asked Dan Far about that and he told me that if you temper it a 425F for a final hardness of 59, it is not so bad. It does take a nasty edge.
 
Can't believe that this stuff would be any harder to hand finish than heat treated CPM 3V.

But, just in case, methinks I'll just go with a Scotchbrite belt finish on mine, ;) :)
 
It isn't quite as bad as 3v but does have that same sort of feel on the paper, makes fresh 220 grit feel like worn 400. Welcome to vanadium alloys!
 
Wow, I didn't know Crucible went bankrupt!... Ok, it say to hold the steel at temp long enough for the steel to equalize then, quench... So, no real hold time there.

Kinda interesting on the finishing part. Even at 59Rc it starts to get more manageable in finishing and sanding. And holds a wicked edge too.

This is some good info. Thanks again guys.
 
I love this steel and hate it, at the same time - for the same reasons! Relatively simple to heat treat, both tougher and more wear resistant than any of the spring or simple tool steels... I've made small blades that I've left a pinch harder that hold great edges, and I've made a couple of big 10" plus choppers that performed better than any other steel I've used for this purpose. Very fine grained, and resilient to torsional stresses.

It also positively sucks to hand finish. It holds scratches much the same way that CPM3v does (although 3v is still worse), and has stain resistance on par with O1 (which is to say not much).

It's one of my favorite steels for all of the things I want my blades to do - it simply demands more of me, the maker! As much as I might gripe about the difficulty in finishing it out, I wouldn't have it any other way - I think my customers buy things from me because they want better, and I aspire to please them.

These were posted previously here, but I think they're pertinent so I'll offer them again. The credit for these goes to Dan Farr and the metallurgists at Crucible:

The following images are tests which were performed by Crucible's metallurgists on a test blade which was forged and heat treated by Dan Farr. The blade was heat treated using a propane forge, and the spine temper was drawn back using an oxy/acetylene torch. The vanadium content was chosen to increase wear resistance and also pin the grain boundaries during proper forging practices.

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Thanks Matt, I appreciate you going through the time to post that up. I looked through that on one of the other threads. Pretty interesting stuff. It would be good to find some thing to compare that with (like 1095 500X, or 5160, etc).

Do you have any pictures of the finish you are talking about. I know of CPM 3V but, have never used it. I have a blade from S30V and thats as close as it gets for me right now.

Has anyone tried any destructive test on this steel? So far it sounds very versatile.
 
Dan Farr got a number of smiths involved with in the development process, including, IIRC, Kevin Cashen and Dr. Jim Batson. theywent through 3 or 4 versons of the stuff before it ever got back to Crucible for them to decide how much more chromium they needed to add to make it roll more easily. A lot of work went into this. I am going to try to weld up a small Burt Foster style laminate billet of Cru Forge and 416 tomorrow. I will let you guys know how badly I fail.:eek::D
 
But, why is there no soak time? This steel is Hypereutectiod. I am not complaining. But, just curious.
 
I suggest a short soak at temperature (15 minutes or so to equalize).
 
The microstructure looks very fine, like photos of O-1. Am I correct in assuming the light spots are vanadium carbides?
 
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