Crusader Forge VIS-T at its end?

P

Pierze

Joined
Jun 5, 2013
Messages
9
I purchased this slab of a blade just over a year ago and since then after countless opening and closing i've noticed that the "locktime" it think is the term has begun to reach its end. I purchased it used from a friend and when i first had it the lockbar was about flush with the handle. Now as you can see it has about .050 left before it completely bottoms out. I tried seeking help at CF's forum but i can only seem to find forums in foreign languages. I called CF as well and was told to send it in but if i go that route it could take up to 6 months before i would get it back. Im pretty sure im going to have to send it in but thought it couldn't hurt to give a shout here and see if anything pops up.

Thanks in advance.
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What...do you actually expect timely customer service in exchange for your very expensive knife? I've learned that's not always how it works...even though it definitely should.
 
I content with accepting what is. Pardon my pc illiteracy im really green at this stuff, took me a while to figure out how to upload these photos hehe. I know its a one man band over there. Im just not sure since i couldent confirm it with anyone as to what can even be done to fix it. A new blade?
 
Probably a new stop-pin and a slight modification of the blade to fit properly with the new stop-pin.
I guess... :confused:

Nice knife though.
 
You make an interesting comment: "it's a one man band over there.". Perhaps it should be a 2-man band considering their extended time-frames (of course, they're not the only ones). Not much can be done re: your issue aside from having a new blade manufactured...or a frame. One of those two items must be longer than it currently is. Not sure how much a modified stop pin will help. Have you seen Lionsteel's SR1a? It's pretty cool because the part of the frame that contacts the blade is replaceable and adjustable. Very cool but, I realize, this doesn't help your situation.
 
A larger stop-pin would give earlier lockup but it would screw up the closed position so the blade would need to be modified.

Replacing the entire blade or frame would be overkill.

I dunno. :cool:
 
Replacing the entire blade or frame may be necessary regardless of whether or not it's overkill.
 
I, for example, experienced a similar situation with a custom knife I still own. The maker asked me to send it to him (which I did) and he made a new blade in a day, then sent the knife back. As is the case with C.F., he is a one-man show, has a backlog and his books are closed. Still, he handled the problem in no time. Seems you need to add material to one component or the other. Hard to do without replacing at least one of them altogether. The stop pin wouldn't, in my opinion, be the most effective way to solve the problem.
 
a larger diameter stop pin is the standard remedy for liner/frame lock wear. see the eccentric hexagonal stop pin on benchmade framelocks, you dont need much change here to completely change the lockup, and unless the point is very close from sticking when closed there wont be anything to adjust. a new blade is not only overkill but unneeded unless there was something wrong with the lockface geometry from the start.

if you want to see how much is needed, get a small piece of folded copy paper between the stop pin and blade and see how the lockup reacts. the tickness of paper x2 is the increase you need in diameter, you'll see its not much.
 
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I guess I don't think of blade replacement as being overkill because the custom maker who replaced mine encouraged the approach and made the process so damn easy. The result was perfection and was done quickly. From the time I sent it out to the time I received it back was ~1 week. Of course...this is CF we're talking about here ;) .
 
The late lockup is fine at the moment. What I'd be worried about is the high rate of wear on the lockbar. Even if you send it in, you'd get only another year before you'd be back to where you are now.

Personally, I'd send it in, after some conversation about solving the high rate of wear.
 
Twindog said:
The late lockup is fine at the moment. What I'd be worried about is the high rate of wear on the lockbar. Even if you send it in, you'd get only another year before you'd be back to where you are now.

Personally, I'd send it in, after some conversation about solving the high rate of wear.
Click to expand...

I agree with this. With many frame locks the bar is intended to ride far across the face. Or at least it's fine when they do. Sebenza are like this.

As the guy above said, what is concerning is why it's wearing so quickly.

Also, are you getting lock rock or any other problems? It might just creep all the way across and be fine if not.
 
Yes the excessive wear my fault. There was a period when it was sticking really good and i even had to pry it open with a makeshift lever a couple times. This ofcourse was before i did some research and had the mating surfaces completely clean. I incorrectly assumed that it was just a temporary break in phase and that after a few more flicks that it would be smooth. As far as lock rock it only does that if i have to much #2 pencil graphite in there but if i wipe off the excess it remedies that issue. I think i will just let it ride for now after hearing everyone's advice. I still have 50 thousands before it bottoms out and even if it does go all the way over and lock up solid i see no issue. What is carbidized? Some sort of coating or an insert of some sort?
 
I know almost nothing about carbidizing. I know that it's an application of carbides to the lock bar face that makes it harder and adds a tiny bit of length to the lock bar. It's also sometimes done to the edge of a knife that is otherwise made entirely of titanium.

I would just let it ride before I sent it in. If it starts to display issues only then would I consider having it serviced.

You can check lock integrity by holding the knife by the back of the handle with one hand (with nothing in the path of the blade), then, with your other hand place your index finger and thumb on the pivot screws and apply pressure against the back of the blade spine with the web between those two fingers. That produces enough pressure to see if it's working properly, while keeping everything safe. That is, if you do it right. ;)
 
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