CS Kudu: WTH?

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Apr 17, 2010
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I picked up a Cold Steel Kudu just because it is cheap and well respected for a $5 knife. Also, I've been fascinated with the Navaja style lock ever since my naive childhood self drooled over cheap knife catalogs in the 80's and early 90's.

Well, it is put together a bit rough, but acceptable for a $5 knife. After all, I've had to do some modifications of my own to much more expensive knives to dial them in, so a little sanding and filing of sharp edges won't be a big deal.

The thing that really stuns me though, is the quality of the blade. Maybe I just got a good one, but this flat-ground 4116 Krupp blade keeps a hell of an edge. The bevel is a tad lopsided and will need some slight reprofiling, but this thing cuts cardboard repeatedly better than AUS-8. I'd say the edge characteristics are more comparable to a good Buck 110 blade.

Once I get the sharp edges taken care of, replace the ring with something more comfortable, and reprofile one side of the edge, this little diamond-in-the rough will enter my EDC rotation.
 
My frickin Kudu...uhhh, not a big fan. Its hard to sharpen and keep that way but consdiering that it was a free throw in, Im not gonna fuss that much.
 
Yeah, maybe I just got one that got a lucky break with the heat treatment. I'm not saying all Kudus will be like mine, but this one is great.
 
I actually really enjoy mine. I use it as a beater knife and have been nothing short of impressed with the blade on it. Like you said--cheap and a bit rough, but not bad at all for what it is!
 
I've got a couple of the Kudu and of the SA Okapi and the Kudu is LIGHTYEARS ahead of the Okapi! It is a great beater knife!
 
I have handled the Okapi but not the Kudu. I think I would attribute it's ability to keep cutting longer to the thinner blade of knives like this (blade geometry.) That can go a long way.

Most of the AUS8 folders I have seen have 1/8 inch thick blades that are either hollow ground or lack full flat grinds that go all the way to the top.
 
I used one for rough work for a while. It worked well, lock was good, blade shape was excellent, blade steel was acceptable. The full flat, thin blade has a lot more to do with the cutting ability than the steel in this case. Even after the edge had rolled while cutting epoxy and concrete, it would cut shavings off aluminum with surprising ease.
 
After seeing the batoning videos of the Kudu, I think I might get another one to use in a "large pocket" winter climate PSK. Basically my reasoning is that I'd never really need to do any batoning in a 72 hour survival situation, so it should be able to handle notching branches and making fuzz sticks and fishing poles just fine.

And the thing is really light compared to any other 4" blade knife I own, as well.
 
It's a good knife, with good steel. If anything, I found the blade not particularly thin, and the edge bevel too thick and not particularly acute out of the box. Kind of silly considering they bothered to do a full flat grind. But after thinning the edge, I have no complaints at all. It's simply a good knife.
 
Oh, I did forget to mention mine was rebeveled on the trusty HF 1x30. Dropped the bevel from ~30 on one side and 18 on the other to about 17 degrees per side, then stropped on the power belt.
 
I bought one a while back I figured why not try one so I did all in all it's the best 5 dollar knife I own these would be great additions to a b.o.b. imo.
 
Oh, I did forget to mention mine was rebeveled on the trusty HF 1x30. Dropped the bevel from ~30 on one side and 18 on the other to about 17 degrees per side, then stropped on the power belt.

I see you paid extra for the asymetrical edge! :D

I also have one, and a couple of CS's Western Hunters and Long Hunters. I really like the Krupps steel. It's not a wonder steel, but it does have decent edge holding, and it seems to be pretty tough in our kitchen. I have to agree that a nice full flat ground blade is a very good all around performer.

You should really try that Pendleton lite in the Krupps steel - great ergonomics!
 
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