- Joined
- Feb 8, 2022
- Messages
- 8
Preface: A lot of people dislike this knife and that's fine, but critiquing the concept or design is not what I'm posting about.
The product images for this knife look like this in the sharpening choil area:
The one I recently bought (and another I've seen around a year ago) look like this:
The plunge line in the product image is more abrupt than the two production ones I've seen.
I like the knife but absolutely hate the look of the "fake" sharpening choil. I realize one way of getting rid of it is to just remove material up to the edge, and I may do that, but I'm trying to think through the options.
I believe I can see why they did it this way in the factory: most of the knife measures 0.9mm at the grind right above the edge bevel. Measuring the knife I have with calipers, they've ended the edge bevel at the exact spot where it gets thicker, and it's at about 1.6mm by the end. In other words, to do it any different, the person putting the edge on would have to accept the edge bevel getting much taller there, which most would consider weird-looking.
I've been contemplating doing it myself. I assume the practical way of doing this would be diamond files. There's not a way of reaching that area with a stone because it would hit the edge and ricasso. (Theoretically I could use the edge of a stone I guess, but that seems terrible). I don't have a belt grinder, and if I did it would be the same problem I believe.
If I were to file it, what are some ways I could fixture it to do it neatly? The vernier protractor shows about a 16 degree edge angle, and I could get that as exact as needed. I can imagine bolting the blade by the pivot hole to a piece of wood, clamping in a vice, and rotating it so the edge is level, then trying to manually keep the file level. Is there a more clever way than that? What are some things that could go wrong, other than obvious ones like not actually being able to keep the file level? The plan for maintaining centering would basically be go back and fourth between sides and do it visually. I could scribe a line where the edge should be, but I don't know how helpful that actually is.
I do realize that because of the recurve, I'm never using a sharpening method on this that benefits much from a sharpening choil anyway. Part of the point of this for me is the problem-solving and another is just to improve the look of the thing.
The product images for this knife look like this in the sharpening choil area:
The one I recently bought (and another I've seen around a year ago) look like this:
The plunge line in the product image is more abrupt than the two production ones I've seen.
I like the knife but absolutely hate the look of the "fake" sharpening choil. I realize one way of getting rid of it is to just remove material up to the edge, and I may do that, but I'm trying to think through the options.
I believe I can see why they did it this way in the factory: most of the knife measures 0.9mm at the grind right above the edge bevel. Measuring the knife I have with calipers, they've ended the edge bevel at the exact spot where it gets thicker, and it's at about 1.6mm by the end. In other words, to do it any different, the person putting the edge on would have to accept the edge bevel getting much taller there, which most would consider weird-looking.
I've been contemplating doing it myself. I assume the practical way of doing this would be diamond files. There's not a way of reaching that area with a stone because it would hit the edge and ricasso. (Theoretically I could use the edge of a stone I guess, but that seems terrible). I don't have a belt grinder, and if I did it would be the same problem I believe.
If I were to file it, what are some ways I could fixture it to do it neatly? The vernier protractor shows about a 16 degree edge angle, and I could get that as exact as needed. I can imagine bolting the blade by the pivot hole to a piece of wood, clamping in a vice, and rotating it so the edge is level, then trying to manually keep the file level. Is there a more clever way than that? What are some things that could go wrong, other than obvious ones like not actually being able to keep the file level? The plan for maintaining centering would basically be go back and fourth between sides and do it visually. I could scribe a line where the edge should be, but I don't know how helpful that actually is.
I do realize that because of the recurve, I'm never using a sharpening method on this that benefits much from a sharpening choil anyway. Part of the point of this for me is the problem-solving and another is just to improve the look of the thing.
Last edited:
