CS- S.R.K....a real slicer

[Md 25v]

Ok, so I had an old SRK in Carbon-V. I thought it took an edge easily, and had decent edge retention, but the thick and obtuse factory edge had terrible geometry for slicing. I liked the knife so I wanted to mod the edge geometry so I would be more likely to use it. I gave the knife a scandi grind and it became a very good slicer, but at the same time it lost its ability to chop and batton well. I Love the thick spine but thin convex on my BRKT Bravo-1 so I decided to try to put a saber/convex grind on my SRK and see what it would be like. I worked on it a little each day this week and just finished. I convexed the edge from the begining of the saber grind and finished it with a 9 micron lee valley grit and then stropped with green compound. It now slices in a similar manner to my Fallkniven S-1. Here is a pic of the knife before the final polishing.

 

[Md 25v]

Now, I want to get it re-handled with wood but I don't know who to go to. Anybody got suggestions?

 

[richard j]

what kind of wood do you want on the knife?

 

[Md 25v]

I'm not to picky on the wood, nothing to exotic, I just don't like the kraton, causes hot spots for me. Do you do Re-handling? Email me with some prices and available woods if you do. I will strip the rest of the epoxy coat off first and remove the kraton handle.

 

[pedicabdriver]

did your tip break or is that the result of re-grinding?

 

[Alberta Ed]

EEE-yi! that looks sharp. I thinned back and convexed the edge on my SRK, though not as drastically (or as nicely) as yours, and as you say it makes a superb slicer. Works great on moose....

 

[Md 25v]

did your tip break or is that the result of re-grinding?

I actually lost the tip while giving it the scandi grind. The tip was bad to begin with, different angles on each side, etc... so I figured it was no big loss, especially since it would be easy to reprofle if I wanted to.