CTS-BD1 question

tbow

tbow

Joined
Nov 29, 2012
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THis is my first time to post in this Forum,I spend a good amount of time in the Kershaw/ZT forum which is what I have been collecting thus far. I am interested in getting my first Spyderco and was wondering what are some opinions about this steel from someone who knows more about these knives.

Thanks for your help.
 
How does it compare to 8cr13mov as far as edge holding,rust,ease of sharpening? I am trying to decide between the Tenacious and Manix2 with BD1. I am familiar with the 8c steel.
 
Hi Tbow,

Edge retention, corrosion resistance and toughness will be a little higher on BD 1 than 8Cr.

sal
 
Thanks Sal. Do have an opinion or preference on Manix2 vs Tenaciuos

Tom
 
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Eric and I designed the "Tenacious" to be mainstream model at an entry level price. Made possible by mfr in China. It's an effective design with good materials made by a skilled maker. Good blade/handle ratio, Walker Linberlock is well known and accepted, good ergos.

Eric designed the Manix to be more of an "afi" model with finger choil, exotic lock, etc. The BD-1 version was a way to make a more affordable model in the USA.

sal
 
I am interested in trying out CTS-BD1 myself. I have a Manix in 154CM that fits my hand perfectly and think I will give the lightweight a try.
 
mu UKPK is cts-bd1 and so far it seems pretty decent. I'm usually a carbonsteel man but this steel takes a nice mirror edge and holds it fairly well. Also no rust at all so far! I'm by no means an expert of steels but I'd say it's good, and I like the finish on the steel, it's kind of speckly and quite pretty. :)

DSCF3799.jpg


Shaprens easily too, I use the spyderco double stuff for my pocket knives and just that brings out the mirror shine.
 
The CTS-BD1 will take a nice polished edge. Edge holding is respectable.
The Manix 2 Lightweight is something of a marvel. So light. Perfect for hiking or wearing in the summer with shorts that would be tugged down by a heavier knife.
The Tenacious is an entry-level Spydie. Very good knife for the money. If you want to step it up and you like the ball lock, the Manix 2 is for you.
 
You won't be disappointed tbow. They are both great knives and if I had to choose between the two I'd go for the tenacious even tho I already have one. If I wouldn't have gotten the Para 2 I'd still have the tenacious in my pocket. I've been meaning to get the fully serrated one sometime as well.
 
I do believe that Sal has mentioned potentially replacing 8Cr13MoV with CTS-BD1 on the value line (Chinese made knives). IIRC, Sal requested Carpenter for for an American made alternative for an entry level steel, and Carpenter responded with CTS-BD1.
 
So how would you guys compare the CTS-BD1 to VG- 10 ? I assume less edge retention, but by how much would you say?
 
It only holds its edge for a little less time than VG-10 under regular used.
CTS-BD1 holds its edge very well, quite longer than 8cr13mov.
It's also just as easy to sharpen but doesn't roll as easily.

I EDC'd a UKPK for a few months and it was wonderful. I really need to pick another one up.

Makes an excellent EDC steel for regular EDC use.
 
So is BD1 as easy to sharpen as 8Cr? I love how easy it touches up. I don't actually sharpen my 8cr knives unless there is a nick or larger dent in the edge. If its just rolled or dull I take it to the strop and 5 minutes later and it'll shave a little hair. If it is, I'm gonna have to get me some of that.
I definitely like VG-10, I haven't sharpened my cricket since I got it. I have maybe a week worth of edc on it. I have too many small knives that I rotate around lol.
 
I am not so sure about BD1's edge retention being as good as is being discussed. I don't own any personally, but when it comes to edge retention, Jim's testing is my go to. There are a lot of factors in edge retention, but read his method, outside of CATRA, you cannot get much better. Notice BD1 has its own category, the very last one. Even 420 bests it in edge retention, and remember that 8Cr13MoV is China's version of the Japanese AUS8. Do keep in mind that Jim does not mention heat treat numbers or the particular knife where the data was derived from, but again it sits alone at the bottom:( http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...based-on-Edge-Retention-cutting-5-8-quot-rope Might be worth asking Jim about...
 
Abrasion resistance is not the only factor controlling how long a knife remains sharp but if you are going to cut a lot of cardboard, carpet or similar materials it will be an important factor to consider. Remember that none of the steels that you mention (Aus8, 420, 8Cr13MoV, BD1) are highly abrasion resistant.
 
I have a UKPK in BD-1 and find it easy to get very very sharp. I edc it and touch it up on a strop about once a week. When I need to break down lots of boxes I grab my gayle bradley in M4. But for every day use I love my UKPK.
 
I have all of these high value steels in spyderco knives. I feel for over all performance I'm torn between VG10 and BD1 but for my fav knife I grab a manix 2 over the delica or tenacious. The weight, ergos, and size the manix 2 LW; I feel is perfect.
 
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