• The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
    Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
    Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.

  • Today marks the 24th anniversary of 9/11. I pray that this nation does not forget the loss of lives from this horrible event. Yesterday conservative commentator Charlie Kirk was murdered, and I worry about what is to come. Please love one another and your family in these trying times - Spark

Cuda MAXX is a BEAST

J

jhokie

Joined
Sep 21, 2002
Messages
44
My new Cuda MAXX arrived today and all I can say is WOW! Holding this knife really inspires a lot of confidence. It might as well be a flippin' fixed blade! The quik flik opening system works like a charm.

The only concern I have is the frame locking... on mine it only goes about 2/3 of the way ander the bottom of the blade... is this normal or does my knife have a problem? I can push it all the way under with a lot of force, but it doesn't go that far with a normal flick, and it is hella hard to get unlocked when I do that. Other than that (which may not be a problem at all, just worries me a slight bit), this is an absolutely awesome knife. The handle feels good in the hand, though not quite as good as my 806D2, but to make up for that the knife doesn't feel as noticable clipped to the pocket than my 806 (though I carry both anyway sometimes so it makes no difference).
 
I've got two CUDA Maxx bowies and one Darrel Ralph Madd Maxx dagger, all 5.5" D2. You'd be amazed at how close the quality of the CUDAs is to the custom.

It is one monster knife, all right. When I opened the box on my first one, I just stood there laughing. I couldn't believe how huge it was. But I've found it is easy to handle, and turned into my primary kitchen knife, too. It's thin and sharp for slicing and long enough for bread or roasts. It also cleans up very nicely.

Don't worry about the framelock if the blade locks up tight. It needs a little room to move over as it wears in. You don't need to force it, just snap it open as hard as you like, as long as it releases one-handed, no problem.

Have fun! :D
 
DON'T push the lock all the way over! It's only supposed to go a little way across the blade - the less the better! (just far enough to lock it) This is to account for wear. The more the lock wears, the farther over it goes. So, if you push it all the way over a lot, you could prematurely wear out the lock and make the knife's lockup sloppy.
 
Two-thirds is just about perfect for the CUDA Maxx if you ask me. I had a Maxx that the lock went all the way over and it was hard to disengage, but it got replaced and I'm a happy camper again. :D
 
Is not a problem jhokie. Mine did the same, it just needs time to wear in. For the first month or so, had to pry the frame lock open at times. Mine has been an edc since I recieved it (15-18mnths ago?). Now seems like a 5.5" folder is normal.
Now where or where can I get one of the 7.1" bowie grinds? Saw a Custom one for sale on a well know knife site but was out of my price range for an edc. Read/heard somewhere that only 100 were to be made?
Rad
 
Originally posted by rad148
Now where or where can I get one of the 7.1" bowie grinds? Saw a Custom one for sale on a well know knife site but was out of my price range for an edc. Read/heard somewhere that only 100 were to be made?
Click to expand...

There will be a limited production run of 500 7" CUDA Maxx's. They have already taken orders from dealers, I don't know if they are sold out though.
 
Why would you stick some kludge like an axis lock on a knife that's got a simpler, stronger lock already?
 
I'm a big fan of the AXIS lock, but I would have to say that it is just fine as it is with the frame lock. Simple, strong, and easy to use, what more do you need?
 
I have axis lock and it is nice, but on a cuda maxx would be dumb. Slim and trim is why it is good. Apples and Oranges.
Rad
 
Glad ya' liked the Maxx! It truly does grow on ya. The handles are my only complaint also, (not much to aid gripping) I've thought about putting grip tape on it, but...quite honestly I spent about six to eight hours a week working with this knife, and haven't dropped it yet. Worked up a pretty good sweat a few times while I was at it too...Guess I've just become more confident through training with it.

Also wanted to say thanks for lettin' us know what ya' chose and how ya' like it. It's nice to see what someone has to say about your suggestions instead of just fading off into the background.

Wouldn't worry about the lock if I were you, as has already been said, it'll break in awight.

the lock on my own is somewhat defective, but...I like it that way! The locking tab doesn't actually contact the blade during opening and closing, which gives it a tiny bit of an inch blade play, but...on the bright side, I've used it, abused it, spinewhacked it, etc. to my hearts content, and never had it come close to closing. and with no parts contact I figure the lock oughta last darn near forever.:D
 
The 2 best, IMO, custom makers when it comes to a perfect lock are Mayo and JW Smith, and both of them start out their locks so that they are barely engaging the blade, maybe only 15%, the lock will move slightly to the right from an initial wear in period, to about 30%, then, assuming it was properly hardened or coated, it should stay there for quite a while, and at even just 15%, there is more than enough engagement to ensure the 2 parts wont shear under pressure. People worry too much about the % of engagement, when they should be much more concerned with the angles the lock and tang face are cut at.

Also, regarding the sticking issue, Mick Strider recommends taking a #2 pencil and giving the face of the tang a thick coating of graphite, this will supposedly help a lot with sticking.
 
Phil,

Per your review of the CUDA MAXX, the thumbstuds are not useless or unnecessary. They may not be useful for opening the blade, agreed, but I don't think they were supposed to.

Both CRKT M16 models I have also have ambidextrous thumbstuds that are flush with the handle. Because the blades of these knives (and the MAXX) have the flipper on the blade, it rules out the possibility of a small bolt inside the handle to act as a blade stop against the tang. Thus, the thumbstuds are designed to act as the blade stop.
 
LyonHaert, you are absolutely correct. What appears to be conventional thumbstuds are in fact bladestops. They shouldn't be used as thumb studs. If you want to thumb the Maxx open, use your thumb on the flipper or guard and thumb it open as you would a regular blade with a thumb stud.
 
LyonHaert:

Check your m-16's. Are the studs knurled?
If they were only stops, that process would not be necessary [ knurling the studs ].

On my review of the m16-03 and the m1602z I have here to test in the future, they have knurled ends on the studs. It would appear that they are intended for both, and they are definately stop pins.

Brownie
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top