Curious how everybody sharpens their recurved blades

[bigbcustom]

I was wondering how everybody else sharpens their recurved blades. I have, at different times, done them on the Sharpmaker, on the edge of a bench stone, with round diamond followed by round ceramic, and on wooden dowels impregnated with different abrasives....I was wondering if there was a better way out there that I am missing. Anybody know how Jerry Hossum sharpens those recurves he makes?

 

[QuietOned]

1" belt grinder works.

Narrow file followed up by 1/2" stone in the Edge Pro.

For really wicked curves various grit papers over the 1/2" stone blank in the EdgePro and held on with two sided tape can take you all the way to 0.5µ, you just have to be careful in setting the angle as the papers over the stone all have various thicknesses and will give minor angle changes.

 

[BJE]

I use the Sharpmaker and sometimes a round diamond rod.

 

[Vorpal Blade]

For sharpening, I use the ceramic corners of a sharpmaker.

For reprofiling, so far, I have hesitated to use the corners of the sharpmaker diamond 'stones' for fear of wearing the diamonds off such narrow surfaces. Sooner or later, I will give it a try.

 

[SanShou]

I'm still looking for a way to reprofile and sharpen my Spec Bump, have tried with sharpmaker but I can't the results I'd like. I'm getting an Edge Pro soon but I have read it's not that good sharpening recuerved blades...

 

[Deadhead Archer]

I'm still looking for a way to reprofile and sharpen my Spec Bump, have tried with sharpmaker but I can't the results I'd like. I'm getting an Edge Pro soon but I have read it's not that good sharpening recuerved blades...

When sharpening your Spec Bump, are you keeping the contact point of the edge on the stone perpendicular? Meaning, twisting the handle around the recurve so that the contact point is parallel to the table.

Just straight-drawing your recurve through won't burr the recurve edges. Keeping the contact point of the blade and stone perpendicular is the key.

Takes a little bit of practice with moving the handles like that, but the results are there.

 

[cbwx34]

From the Edge Pro website:

"You do not need a curved stone for a recurve blade. When the stone goes through the recurve portion of the blade, it only cuts at the edges of the stone but this is not a problem. If you have a new stone , that has sharpened edges , you could relieve them a little with some sand on a flat piece of concrete. Edge Pro does have 1/2" wide stones that can be shaped to the curve of the blade. This technique will give you a slightly better finish in the recurve part of the blade but, I have never felt that it was worth the trouble. All of the recurve blades that are sent in for sharpening are done with the standard 1" wide stones."