Custom 110 Closing Problem

Lenny

Gold Member
Joined
Oct 15, 1998
Messages
2,487
I received a Custom 110 a while back, that, while stunning to look at, had a surprising amount of lateral blade play.
lnstead of sending it back, I decided to see if I could fix it.
Simply put, I covered the pivot end bolsters, used a piece of wood, and smacked it with a hammer a few tiimes.
It worked, but I had to peen the pivot pin down a little and do quite a bit of hand sanding and buffing to get the bolster back to almost new looking.
Anyway, there is no play now.
However, when closing, I always have to push the blade the last 1/8" to fully close it.
I'm assuming it'll eventually smooth out and start closing on its own with use.
Any comments?
Lenny
 
My only comment is that I would have sent it back and let Buck fix it. Your's may or may not ever close right again after your "fix", but hind sight is 20-20 they say.

It's not to late to send it back, just contact Joe Houser through the e-mail link at the bottom of the page and explain it to him. I'm sure that they will take care of you.
 
Thanks for the advice.
I just sent Joe an email.
I kinda doubt that they'll do anything for me as I already tried my own "handyman special job" on it. : )
Lenny
 
Thanks for the advice.
I just sent Joe an email.
I kinda doubt that they'll do anything for me as I already tried my own "handyman special job" on it. : )
Lenny

I wouldn't bet on that. Buck is very good at taking care of "self inflicted wounds" so to speak. Especially since there was a problem (from the factory) with it that you were trying to fix.:thumbup:

I've had them fix, under warranty, at least two knives I aquired that had the tip broken off due to misuse by the owner.
 
That's good to hear.
I'll keep you posted.
Thanks again.
Lenny
 
I tried thise technique to resolve excessive blade play on mine, but I used two thick books and not wood. It did stop the blade play, but only temporarily. I'm guessing peening it will keep the bolsters closer together and I wouldn't worry about the blade being a little stiffer to close. I'd rather that than a wobbly blade..
 
I tried thise technique to resolve excessive blade play on mine, but I used two thick books and not wood. It did stop the blade play, but only temporarily. I'm guessing peening it will keep the bolsters closer together and I wouldn't worry about the blade being a little stiffer to close. I'd rather that than a wobbly blade..

It's the OP's call so if he prefers a custom 110 that doesn't function correctly it's up to him. A 110 should snap closed, not have to be pushed closed.

Buck will fix it so that there's no blade play and still close properly.
 
It's the OP's call so if he prefers a custom 110 that doesn't function correctly it's up to him. A 110 should snap closed, not have to be pushed closed.

Buck will fix it so that there's no blade play and still close properly.


this is why I've sent it to them to fix, as the lock also failed and closed on my finger..
 
In most cases it's better to send it to the professionals to fix it, rather than hitting it with a hammer:D

Hitting things with a hammer does have it's place in life though...
 
Hey Lenny,

My new, 13-12-2012 Ranger 112 had also a little bladeplay sideways. Sqeezing it a little in a protected vice solved that problem, no play anymore. Sanding down the pivot standouts and polishing the bolsters made it look like new. I did not peen the pivot and there is no gap after sanding, so I wonder if they were peened originally.
The last bit of closing now however had to be pushed, it would not snap close. After a few days of regularly opening and closing and oiling the pivot and rocker bar with Nano-oil, it has smoothed out and closes with a snap again.

So, don't worry, use it and will be fine again. Maybe it will take a bit longer with NS bolsters.
My 2011 110 had the same problem and it smoothed out also.


Math.
 
Hey Lenny,

My new, 13-12-2012 Ranger 112 had also a little bladeplay sideways. Sqeezing it a little in a protected vice solved that problem, no play anymore. Sanding down the pivot standouts and polishing the bolsters made it look like new. I did not peen the pivot and there is no gap after sanding, so I wonder if they were peened originally.
The last bit of closing now however had to be pushed, it would not snap close. After a few days of regularly opening and closing and oiling the pivot and rocker bar with Nano-oil, it has smoothed out and closes with a snap again.

So, don't worry, use it and will be fine again. Maybe it will take a bit longer with NS bolsters.
My 2011 110 had the same problem and it smoothed out also.


Math.
Squeezing in a vise is an unpredictable way to tighten up a loose pivot pin. You are lucky that yours worked itself out, often times if they are over tightened the blade tang will encounter too much friction with the liners and they won't just loosen up with repeated opening and closing. It's probably best for most folks to let the good people at Buck to do these kinds of repairs.
 
Sitflyer,
I wasn't lucky, I know what I'm doing. :rolleyes: My old German quality vice, a large one with a very smooth controlable action, is a much better instrument then a piece of wood or even a hammer.
My advice was for Lenny who already tightened his knife. His will loosen up after time.
The good people at Buck should have made Lenny's custom right in the first place, just like my regular 112. I just do not want to send it in al the way from my home to the US and probably wait for weeks to get it back.
People should do what they think is best, most people better send them to Buck, but I wasn't talking to most people, just to Lenny.:)

Math.
 
Well, I heard from Joe Houser yesterday.
He told me to send it in, so that's what I did.
I'll let you all know when it comes back.
Lenny
 
Well, I heard from Joe Houser yesterday.
He told me to send it in, so that's what I did.
I'll let you all know when it comes back.
Lenny

Good for you. In my opinion, that's the best move you could make. After one failed attempt at a home fix, let the experts handle it. :thumbup:
 
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