Custom 110

jstrange

jstrange

Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
3,379
Hello all,

I am finally close to pulling the trigger on a custom 110. I know that I want S30V for steel, finger-groove handle, and I am pretty sure I want the nickel finish.

Here is the hard part. I am torn on the cheaper woods vs. the more expensive horn materials. As far as looks go I think I like some of both of them. Budget-wise I would be limited to the Elk, Asian Water-buffalo, or Ram if I went with non-wood. The wood handles don't do that much for me aesthetically, but the Koa flame looks pretty nice and the blue colored one is strangely appealing.

My question (one of many I am afraid) is, which material is longer lasting, less prone to fracturing or wearing? Are the horn materials strong as well as pretty and does the material justify the price jump? Which wood would last the longest and be the most durable? Which material should I avoid, if any, as I am not the best at preventive maintenance? Lastly, what do the rivets add to strength or functionality or are they just decoration?

I don't believe in safe queens so this would be used and carried. I am leaning towards the water-buffalo. Based on my criteria, would that be a good choice or no? My brass 110s really get pretty tarnished easily, will the nickel be a better material or not? I don't know when, if ever, I would be able to do this again so I am being very indecisive and need some help.

So, what say you all?
 
I have a smooth water buffalo handled custom 110 and a Cherry wood custom 110. The choices you have made are good ones. S30V Blade, Nickel Silver Bolsters, the handle material is what you are stuck on. My thoughts and I am no expert, I dropped my smooth water buffalo handled 110 on concrete and it did not crack or break. I was afraid it would but it held up. The woods will last a lifetime with normal use and care. I think in the end it will be your decision. Cherry looks really nice and the smooth water buffalo does too. As far as the rivets, they are more for looks, I like them on wood but not on horn, so I do not have them on my smooth buffalo horn 110. Play around on the custom page and see what you like, but the wood scales will do just fine and Buck has a lifetime warranty anyway.
 
Thanks. I think I am down to the Indigo or the water buffalo. What exactly is "jigged" and why does it add so much to the cost over regular WB?
 
jstrange said:
Thanks. I think I am down to the Indigo or the water buffalo. What exactly is "jigged" and why does it add so much to the cost over regular WB?
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I believe that jigged bone is where they apply a texture or pattern to the exterior surface of the bone. That takes extra time so it's extra cost.


Here's one I ordered that sounds a lot like what you are considering. Indigo scales, nickel bolsters, finger grooves with rivets and S30v steel. I just opted for partial serrations on mine. I'm really pleased with it.

100_2729.jpg


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To me the smooth buffalo horn is better looking than the jigged buffalo horn.
 
DesertChris said:
I find that the nickel silver doesn't tarnish like the brass. Plus I personally like it much better :)
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Yes, I have come to the point not to buy another 110 with brass because I like the NS so much. I have two regular 110's and plan on getting rid of them because the brass looks bad after it tarnishes. So my buck pet peeve is I have to have NS Bolsters on my Buck 110's.
 
Badhammer that looks really nice. That wood looks really slick (as in no texture), is it slippery to hold or do the finger-grooves help out?

RickJ - how is the smooth buffalo horn? Does it have any texture or is it smooth like glass?
 
Here are some real visuals, note your mileage may vary

Jigged Buff cost's more due to the labor to cut the grooves in the horn


Smooth Buff


I do like the KOA, but the wood grain can have a lot of variation


The antler Sambar and Elk also has a lot of variation (top sambar CS bottom elk LE)

bottom sambar the top 4 are elk (note variation can look like smooth bone to ruff with a lot of bark)



Ram horn is nice, but I like it with brass better than NK



jb4570
 
jstrange said:
Badhammer that looks really nice. That wood looks really slick (as in no texture), is it slippery to hold or do the finger-grooves help out?

RickJ - how is the smooth buffalo horn? Does it have any texture or is it smooth like glass?
Click to expand...

Finger grooves do help but it's no more or less slippery than a standard 110. I've got this one in jigged water buffalo. My personal preference is for rivets but I was concerned that in horn or bone they may induce cracks. I have not seen any cracked scales because of rivets so I can't support this theory and may yet order one with rivets in the future.

100_2744.jpg

100_2731.jpg
 
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smooth buffalo is smooth like glass, also you must remember this is real buffalo horn so it will have striations in it, I have some white streaks in mine which makes it look really nice. Part of my travels in my 20 year Army career were to southeast Asia and I have seen water buffalo up close and have gotten a good look at there horns, reason why my first custom was smooth water buffalo horn.
 
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