custom blur scales?

No sir I don't do that sorry. You need someone that does aluminum anodizing and that is a lot more involved than titanium which is all I handle. Thanks for asking though
STR
 
Don't mean to step on anyone's feet here or hijack an otherwise good thread...

kimberfan said:
could you anodize a blur to purple for me? and how much would it cost? its black atm

thanks =)
Click to expand...

If you strip the knife to the scales and remove the grip tape...its about $65 for a lot charge to do purple. If you're not in a rush...I can run it with one of my overseas customers billet racing clutch covers and it'd only cost you $10.
 
1SHOT1KILL said:
Don't mean to step on anyone's feet here or hijack an otherwise good thread...



If you strip the knife to the scales and remove the grip tape...its about $65 for a lot charge to do purple. If you're not in a rush...I can run it with one of my overseas customers billet racing clutch covers and it'd only cost you $10.
Click to expand...

Yeah so long as I'm not the one stripping it. ;) I don't want to strip it. My blast cabinet is terrible for leaks and blasts powder all over so I only use it when I have to. With clips its not so bad but big jobs mean big powder mess in my shop. While this should not be a big job I've found that blasting aluminum after anodizing can be frustrating. I was asked to clean up a knife once a few years back that was hard anodized aluminum handles. I passed over that thing once or twice knowing it was all cleaned up ( I can't see through my glass anymore and got tired of buying those clear covers so its all by feel with my blasting). Damned if it wasn't just the same looking as when it went in. I could barely tell I had blasted it at all! In my experience if the aluminum is already a color by hard anodizing it may be stubborn about gettting it off there as not all just blast right off. What should be a job that can be done in good time could end up taking a lot longer just to blast one scale. I had a Kabar hard anodized Dozier designed Thorn 4061 model here and it was the anodized black color and I was like to never get that off there and I had another one also a Kabar that had the hard anodized khaki like color on the #4050 model and it was also a long ass job just to strip it down to bare aluminum and I mean I had my compressor kicking at 120psi on average not really doing much with it using glass beads #80.

You may end up paying as much to have it stripped as to recolor it.

STR
 
1SHOT1KILL said:
Don't mean to step on anyone's feet here or hijack an otherwise good thread...



If you strip the knife to the scales and remove the grip tape...its about $65 for a lot charge to do purple. If you're not in a rush...I can run it with one of my overseas customers billet racing clutch covers and it'd only cost you $10.
Click to expand...

i would be into this except 1 i gotta have the knife re-bladed first and second i dont think the grip tape will come off with leaving the scales in tact lol i tried getting it off with another knife and screw driver and it just wouldnt budge

so guess no purple s30v blur for me :(
 
The rubber grip tape came right off this one.
(ready for the purple stuff?)
DSCN2812.jpg
 
I was looking into removing the anodizing and I saw where a guy used a heavy duty de-greaser and it took it all off pretty well judging by the pics. Maybe an industrial paint stripper? Dont know if that would actually work or not. And would getting the liner lock out and back in be a problem? I believe it is pressed in.
 
STR said:
Yeah so long as I'm not the one stripping it. ;) I don't want to strip it. My blast cabinet is terrible for leaks and blasts powder all over so I only use it when I have to. With clips its not so bad but big jobs mean big powder mess in my shop. While this should not be a big job I've found that blasting aluminum after anodizing can be frustrating. I was asked to clean up a knife once a few years back that was hard anodized aluminum handles. I passed over that thing once or twice knowing it was all cleaned up ( I can't see through my glass anymore and got tired of buying those clear covers so its all by feel with my blasting). Damned if it wasn't just the same looking as when it went in. I could barely tell I had blasted it at all! In my experience if the aluminum is already a color by hard anodizing it may be stubborn about gettting it off there as not all just blast right off. What should be a job that can be done in good time could end up taking a lot longer just to blast one scale. I had a Kabar hard anodized Dozier designed Thorn 4061 model here and it was the anodized black color and I was like to never get that off there and I had another one also a Kabar that had the hard anodized khaki like color on the #4050 model and it was also a long ass job just to strip it down to bare aluminum and I mean I had my compressor kicking at 120psi on average not really doing much with it using glass beads #80.

You may end up paying as much to have it stripped as to recolor it.

STR
Click to expand...

I can check with my plater (we are very tight...as I send a significant amount of billet to them for both plating and stripping/side note...they are a mile from my shop and they also do the plating for Surefire)

I will check with them on tuesday for laughs and kicks and show them my black blur and see if I can interest them in doing me "a favor". The shop foreman is also into knives and is always checking out my edc of the week. Let me know if anyone else is interested in altering their colors...
 
BobSig said:
I was looking into removing the anodizing and I saw where a guy used a heavy duty de-greaser and it took it all off pretty well judging by the pics. Maybe an industrial paint stripper? Dont know if that would actually work or not. And would getting the liner lock out and back in be a problem? I believe it is pressed in.
Click to expand...

The liner lock is held in by the standoffs and the pivot.

linerlock.jpg
 
Last edited:
BobSig said:
I was looking into removing the anodizing and I saw where a guy used a heavy duty de-greaser and it took it all off pretty well judging by the pics. Maybe an industrial paint stripper? Dont know if that would actually work or not. And would getting the liner lock out and back in be a problem? I believe it is pressed in.
Click to expand...

In the R/C world that I'm more accustomed to, guys have been known to use either oven cleaning spray or Greased Lightening (seems to be more forgiving) to remove anodizing. Only ever tried the oven cleaner myself and you really have to watch it or it can pit the aluminum pretty bad. Never tried the Greased Lightening but hear it is more forgiving as far as the pitting goes. Soak in a bucket, rinse, repeat till bare.
 
incaorchid said:
#2 I would be interested as well.
Would there be any way to preserve or restore the Kershaw Ken Onion USA logo on the corner of the scale?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately...no. Once the color is stripped out...its gone. Theoretically you could fill it back in after anodizing with a white marker/crayon. Otherwise it would need to be filled with wax beforehand to preserve its color, and I don't think the etching/engraving is deep enough to preserve it that way either. I'll ask...
 
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