Custom Buck 110 Work Log Picture Heavy

robotech

robotech

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I have had requests to show a work log of my Custom Buck 110 build.
I am building a Buck 110 from essentially scratch. All that will be stock is the lock bar, spring, blade, and butt spacer (to hold the spring).
I am building the SS liners from 316 Marine SS, .036" thick. $16.00, shipped.
I am replacing all rivets with 1/8" pivot pins with 2-56 screws. The screws will be T-8 instead of T-6. The pivots and screws will have to be cut down to fit the width of the frame.
The bronze bushings shown below is not for the blade pivot, as it has a bushing. They are for the lock bar.
The lock bar is .010" thinner than the blade, and the butt spacer. Buck doesn't worry about it, but in these thin liner builds, we need to keep that width consistent. I have found adding these bushings help. And they are hidden when the knife is assembled.
Hardware is about $12.00 shipped.
The scales will be a set of BLEMISHED Toxic Green that has a factory blem resembling snakeskin. About 1/5th of a sheet, about $3.00. And I will use black fiber liners.
I am also drilling and tapping 4-40 screw holes for a polished Titanium deep ride pocket clip. Clip about $7.50.
I am reshaping the stock 110 with a two finger choil frame, one small and one sweeping. The FG version of the Buck has four small ones.
I have obtained a CPM-154 BOS heat treated Buck 110 blade and bushing from a friend here at BF. This will be the blade on the custom. A little better than the 420HC. $70.00 shipped.
The parts I am using come from several different knives. The butt spacer, which I had to cut down for the new frame shape, is from an older version. The lock bar from that knife is worn and has some up and down play.
So, I have purchase a 110 built in 2010 from the 'bay. $14.00 SHIPPED, LOL.
When I receive it in the next couple of days, I will punch out the lock bar and use that, and maybe the spring, too. Due to the shorter (top to bottom) frame, I have to work down the blade stop portion of the lock bar to allow the blade to seat below the frame so it is covered. A long process, but necessary.
Here are the pictures where I am at today, and will post again when I get the new parts and finish this up.

Here is the liners drawn and the old Buck 110 frame used to start this.
1.jpg


Here re a few parts, including a FG model frame to show the difference in how the frame will be finger grooved, but different than a stock version.
2.jpg


New CPM-154 blade
3.jpg


Here is the knife assembled to get the liners shaped for the other hardware. Just a quick assembly.
4.jpg


Opposite side, closed.
5.jpg


More parts. Notice the lock bar has been cut down at the blade stop. Just a prototype as the locking tang is badly worn and I won't use this lock bar.
I also had to drill and cut the back spacer to allow the clip screws to have a little extension. I will show that better when I take the next batch of pictures of the disassembled parts before I put this together.
6.jpg


Here are the Toxic Green scales ready to shape, and drill holes for the screws.
7.jpg


Scales shaped, and ready to cut black liners.
8.jpg


Will post more next week.
 
I am waiting for my donor 110, should be here this morning.
So, here are a few more pictures.

Gluing the black liners on. Gorilla glue.
10.jpg


I have cut down the pivot pins and screws to fit the whole mess together when I get the 110 today. The benefit of using pivot pins is that they are hardened.
11.jpg


Here are a few pictures of the knife waiting for the lockbar and blade. Then I do a final shape to fit (liners, scales, and such). Then a sand down and polish. i MAY put on a thinner TI clip, more of a stealth type. We'll see when I get there.
12.jpg


13.jpg


14.jpg


If I get the 110 today, I will finish this up and post the final pictures.
 
I finished the project this afternoon, so here is the rest of the pics.
After I had shaped and fitted everything, it is ready for the new lock bar, and assembly.

Here is the donor 110. It was made in 2010. I just needed a good lock bar, and took the spring, too.
17.jpg


Here is the donor with the lock bar rivet punch out.
16.jpg


I had to grind down the new lock bar to allow the blade to recede properly into the frame. I had cut the frame down with finger choils, and the blade tip would protrude. Dangerous!
And here is the butt spacer (spring retainer) that I had to grind out on one side, and drill a hole on the other to allow some clip screw room.
15.jpg


Here is the knife with one side, the blade, lock bar, spring, etc assembled. Ready to button up.
18.jpg


Next post, the finished project
 
Here is the finished custom Buck 110. Toxic Green G-10 with a "snakeskin" pattern (was a blemish on the sheet). With a black fiber lining.
CPM-154CM BOS heat treated blade.
New pivot pins, screws, bushings, and a low ride Titanium pocket clip.
Clip screws drilled and tapped for T-8 4-40 screw. Scale screws are T-8 button head 2-56.
Blade centered, action is smooth. It will get smoother after it seats. This will be a one hand opener.

ls1.jpg


rs1.jpg


t1.jpg


t2.jpg


tc1.jpg


bc1.jpg


Pocket clip or not I have a custom sheath for it.
s1.jpg
 
Couldn't seem to get the color right on the above pics. More camera than knowledge.

So, I took some more to get better representation.

Can see the black liner better, here.
t1a.jpg


ls1a.jpg


rs1a.jpg


lc.jpg


Happy now.
 
Simple Man said:
Color me impressed, quite nice Rob. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Thank you, Sir.
I am impreesed, myself.
The whole project turned out just as I wanted, and the blade centering, and smooth action, surprised me.
Hard to get that with a 110. It's a lock back, no adjustments can be made to a stock knife as it's all pinned.
This one is spot on. Cen't see ANYTHING wrong with it.
And it seems to get better as it seats in.
Here is my 1st busk 110 build.
It is a daily user. Has some cosmetic issues, but it's action and centering is excellent.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...uck-110-Mod-1st-one!!?p=10967589#post10967589
 
Very nice!

Has there been a noticeable change in the weight and/or center of gravity after the rebuild?
 
keithhblade said:
Very nice!

Has there been a noticeable change in the weight and/or center of gravity after the rebuild?
Click to expand...

Absolutely.
The weight went down to 4.0 oz, and that includes the clip. The stock 110 is 7.2 oz, no clip!!
If I could work with TI, it would probably go down to 3.5 oz.
May try that, sometime.
And look how thin it is.
The knife is much more agile, and the blade balance is better than good. VERY fast switch ups.
I can do a scale shot, if enough folks want to see it.
 
That's a surprising drop in weight! I would have figured a little bit, but given the number of parts that the knife retained or directly replaced, that is surprising. I guess brass and wood are a lot heavier than G10.

Thanks for the run down.
 
keithhblade said:
That's a surprising drop in weight! I would have figured a little bit, but given the number of parts that the knife retained or directly replaced, that is surprising. I guess brass and wood are a lot heavier than G10.

Thanks for the run down.
Click to expand...

That was an interesting thought.
I measured the two brass and wood scales, added the four solid pins, and got a weight of 6.0 oz!!!
That means the blade, lock bar, spring, and butt spacer only weighs 1.2 oz! So the Green G-10, the steel liners and a TI clip weighs 2.8 oz. The same as one brass and wood scale!
 
robotech said:
That was an interesting thought.
I measured the two brass and wood scales, added the four solid pins, and got a weight of 6.0 oz!!!
That means the blade, lock bar, spring, and butt spacer only weighs 1.2 oz! So the Green G-10, the steel liners and a TI clip weighs 2.8 oz. The same as one brass and wood scale!
Click to expand...

I've got a 110, and it weighs a ton compared to some of my more modern knives. It's interesting to know where the weight comes from.

Thanks!
 
One final pic. I cut down the pocket clip as it was too big (in my opinion) for the knife. It fits the sheath much better, too.
I still need to polish the marks out, but here it is.

f1.jpg
 
Guess hoo said:
are there special tools required to disassemble a buck 110 knife?
Click to expand...

Not really.
I just drill the pins to loosen with a drill press, then use a punch to knock them out.
Then, when I re-assemble it, I just use 1/8" pivot pins and 2.56 screws. May have to counter bore drill the screw heads in the frame so the heads are flush, or at least, inset a little. Then you can take it apart to clean, change blades, etc.
So, pretty much, just a drill press, hammer, and punch.
 
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