Recommendation? Custom Buck - From Buck's site

H

Hands

Joined
Aug 17, 2018
Messages
19
This is what I'm thinking. I'd like to try the finger cut out even though I really don't need it.
Also the drop point 'a sin' is something I'm look forward to. The nickel goes better the the brass but I might do brass, not sure.

Rivets are a given. It's hard for me to say no to them. The community here seems split down the middle about rivets. I agree that it depends on the material used on the handle.

S30V Satin blade.

What do you guys think of the custom service. There are basically pre-made customs on Amazon with drop point that are well priced.

This knife is $106.

I'd like to have more choice on the grip being that all the others cost more so you have 3 or so choices but I really like what Buck has done here.

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I cannot recommend the G10 handles but I have had really good luck with the ironwood handles, cherrywood, and walnut.

I do like the drop point, get one or two of those.
 
Imo, If your going to go custom, why not truly go custom. What's another 40.00 to get wood by which you probably won't bump into anyone else who has it. Unless you bump into the folks here.

Pete
 
kossetx said:
Imo, If your going to go custom, why not truly go custom. What's another 40.00 to get wood by which you probably won't bump into anyone else who has it. Unless you bump into the folks here.

Pete
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I agree Pete but at $106 give or take a few bucks 'pardon the pun' depending on nickel/brass is not a bad price.
I like it at around 100. I don't want to fork over the extra. If I was going in the $150 I'd be temped to get the auto but it's very illegal in my state so carrying it is rolling a dice.
 
Welcome to the Buck forum Hands! Well I love the idea of helping you spend your money on Buck knives (lol). Buy it you will like it, just know it will not be your last as they are addictive. Nickle -vs- Brass is the same as your pins -vs- no pins IMHO depends on the scale material. If I was getting Oak scales I'd go with brass as those colors go well and complement each other, Nickle washes out the color of the Oak wood to my eyes. You can mix and match all of the handle and frame configurations and pick what looks best to you at your price point.

Now just remember all of the natural materials will have some variation in looks and color from the web site images. Even the right side to left side of the knife you have made may have variations (if you don't like it send it back for replacement). Keep us updated on what you pick and show us photos.

JB
 
That is a nice g10 handle and I like them when they are right. Yes, they have a nice and even texture.

In my experience you can't know if your g10 handle is going to be right or some glued over, excessively ground down work of somebody's idea of artwork.
 
Just another option, C&C offers this in 5160 for much less. I can appreciate the FG versions of the 110 and 112, but found that I preferred to further radius the edges on my FG 110. After making the modifications, I decided I'd just add FG's to my liking on future ones (dremel plus grinding bit, a little sanding, and then polishing bits).

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3rd recommendation for C&C, I keep an eye on their sight, and order what floats my boat. Cheeper than full blown custom, but very nice.

These nickel/blue knives are a good example. Nicley configured, and cheeper than you can order them for. Also they had Amber stag 110's for $99 recently how can you beat that?
 
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eveled said:
View attachment 968404 3rd recommendation for C&C, I keep an eye on their sight, and order what floats my boat. Cheeper than full blown custom, but very nice.

These nickel/blue knives are a good example. Nicley configured, and cheeper than you can order them for. Also they had Amber stag 110's for $99 recently how can you beat that?
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Damn that photo.
C&c has a really nice model with a black handle and drop I'm eyeballing.
Blue is a nice handle too.
 
My opinion on finger grooves, I can take them or leave them.

Be aware they make the handle smaller. The points don't stick out, the grooves are cut in. I hope that makes sense.

My preference is 1 finger groove cut higher than the factorys first groove. It is similar to a standard 112 handle.

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eveled said:
View attachment 968421 View attachment 968420 My opinion on finger grooves, I can take them or leave them.

Be aware they make the handle smaller. The points don't stick out, the grooves are cut in. I hope that makes sense.

My preference is 1 finger groove cut higher than the factorys first groove. It is similar to a standard 112 handle.
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So it would be perfect to have a 112 style on the 110. I could see that. I'm glad to have the opinion that the finger groves are a take or leave opinion. This draws me closer to the budget Amazon option. That black charcoal is looking good right now.
though my money will go to a sharpener.
 
I have three 110's in rotation, 1 factory finger groove, 1 smooth, and the 1 with the single finger groove. I go back and forth daily without issue. It really makes no difference. I would not spend extra just to get finger grooves. When you get right down to it the standard 110 is the best bargain in the knife world imho. Especially if you find it on sale somewhere. If on a budget, I'd easily take 2 standards over 1 custom any day.
 
As much as I like the look of finger grooves. The smooth fits my hand better
 
Personally I don't like the way brass tarnishes. The Satin nickel looks better longer. Definitely the drop point.
From what I've seen of the blue wood, some of it appears to be more blue-green than blue, which I don't like.
Finger grooves are so so. I really like the front bolster on the 112's in function and appearance, but don't care for the appearance of the single groove many have added to the 110, maybe functional.
 
I showed a modified Spyderco to Sal Glesser at the Blade Show. He asked, “Are you some kind of knife maker?” My reply, “My collector friends call me the ‘The Mangler’.”
 
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