robotech
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- Feb 22, 2009
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I decided to customize a Buck Strider 889. And boy, did THIS turn out to be an ever changing project.
I wasn't going to worry about a work log, as this is a prototype, and I will probably make some mistakes. But, a friend asked me to do this as he was curious on how it was done.
I purchased a used Buck Strider 889 in a tan FRN, black hardware. I wanted a user as I was going to change or add new hardware as it progressed.
So, this starts after the 1st stage was completed, but will continue as I finish and I will post updates as they get done.
I am going to put on a set of lemon Yellow rough textured G-10 with black liners. Then use black 4-40 screws and custom standoffs. And maybe a low ride Ti pocket clip.
Well, after I received the knife, I found that Buck, for what ever reason, decided to put a .040 bushing on one side of the blade, and a .020 on the other. I had heard that it was done to prevent the lock bar from wedging into the far side blade/liner when the lock was worn. Considering that the lock is 50% + new, that kinda made sense.
But, after I measured everything, I am not buying that. And that bothered me.
Then I measured the liner and found it to be .050, .020 wider than the bushing on that side IF Buck had just centered the blade. Uh uh, that liner would not wedge, so I am stumped.
You could see that the blade was off center at the pivot! AND the liner lock bar was past 50% lockup, new. As this one wasn't new, it was about 80%.
This design also uses a thumbstud as the stop pin. It hits the frame to stop, and then the lock bar sets.
So after I measured everything out, I found that the inside the well width was .205. A .145 blade, a .040 bushing, and a .020 bushing. The stock standoffs are .205, so that is the well width all the way back. OK.
To be honest, I don't know why Buck went to .205 width, to start with. .155, or even .185 would have made a much thinner knife, as they use pins, not screws. .155 standoffs threaded just doesn't leave much room for the screws to seat without touching in the middle. It can be done, but is very tedious in cutting, trying, cutting, trying, etc. 8 screws.
The G-10 will give a little when you torque it down.
I WILL try that on my next one. I can cut down standoffs and pivot pins to fit. Then just use .010 or .020 bushings. We'll see.
So, to make the blade centered, I would use 2x .015 bushings on each side, and use new .205 standoffs, like the stock ones. The original standoffs are pins, and had to be drilled out. Useless, now.
I have ordered the hardware, to include new thumbstuds as these are a little worn. I also punched in a new ball detent as this one was slightly worn and flattened.
Will give more technical info when I update the post, mid week. But notice how the clip is mounted in the stock knife scales, and how I have drilled/tapped a new clip position. And the lanyard hole is only drilled through one side!
The 889 has an 420HC blade. A heavy one at that.
As I said, this is a prototype. I will do one more, only a 882 Tarani with an ATS-34 blade (I have one coming). But, it is essentially the same knife, and pinned together.
So it will get .185 (3/16") standoffs (4-40 thread), and two .020 bushing to thin the knife, and probably Toxic Green scales. And a Ti low ride clip.
But that is for another day.
To be Continued:
I wasn't going to worry about a work log, as this is a prototype, and I will probably make some mistakes. But, a friend asked me to do this as he was curious on how it was done.
I purchased a used Buck Strider 889 in a tan FRN, black hardware. I wanted a user as I was going to change or add new hardware as it progressed.
So, this starts after the 1st stage was completed, but will continue as I finish and I will post updates as they get done.
I am going to put on a set of lemon Yellow rough textured G-10 with black liners. Then use black 4-40 screws and custom standoffs. And maybe a low ride Ti pocket clip.
Well, after I received the knife, I found that Buck, for what ever reason, decided to put a .040 bushing on one side of the blade, and a .020 on the other. I had heard that it was done to prevent the lock bar from wedging into the far side blade/liner when the lock was worn. Considering that the lock is 50% + new, that kinda made sense.
But, after I measured everything, I am not buying that. And that bothered me.
Then I measured the liner and found it to be .050, .020 wider than the bushing on that side IF Buck had just centered the blade. Uh uh, that liner would not wedge, so I am stumped.
You could see that the blade was off center at the pivot! AND the liner lock bar was past 50% lockup, new. As this one wasn't new, it was about 80%.
This design also uses a thumbstud as the stop pin. It hits the frame to stop, and then the lock bar sets.
So after I measured everything out, I found that the inside the well width was .205. A .145 blade, a .040 bushing, and a .020 bushing. The stock standoffs are .205, so that is the well width all the way back. OK.
To be honest, I don't know why Buck went to .205 width, to start with. .155, or even .185 would have made a much thinner knife, as they use pins, not screws. .155 standoffs threaded just doesn't leave much room for the screws to seat without touching in the middle. It can be done, but is very tedious in cutting, trying, cutting, trying, etc. 8 screws.
The G-10 will give a little when you torque it down.
I WILL try that on my next one. I can cut down standoffs and pivot pins to fit. Then just use .010 or .020 bushings. We'll see.
So, to make the blade centered, I would use 2x .015 bushings on each side, and use new .205 standoffs, like the stock ones. The original standoffs are pins, and had to be drilled out. Useless, now.
I have ordered the hardware, to include new thumbstuds as these are a little worn. I also punched in a new ball detent as this one was slightly worn and flattened.
Will give more technical info when I update the post, mid week. But notice how the clip is mounted in the stock knife scales, and how I have drilled/tapped a new clip position. And the lanyard hole is only drilled through one side!
The 889 has an 420HC blade. A heavy one at that.
As I said, this is a prototype. I will do one more, only a 882 Tarani with an ATS-34 blade (I have one coming). But, it is essentially the same knife, and pinned together.
So it will get .185 (3/16") standoffs (4-40 thread), and two .020 bushing to thin the knife, and probably Toxic Green scales. And a Ti low ride clip.
But that is for another day.
To be Continued:
Last edited:
