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custom kydex with split rivets

W

wannabuckbiotch

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Sep 4, 2013
Messages
28
So I got a custom kydex with a few split rivets. I know its only cosmetic and it won't hurt the strength of it but sheesh it's custom it shouldnt have that. You can't say it's high quality when there's split eyelets. i was told that it's part of manufacturing process and if I want it fixed send it back and I have to pay for the shipping. Ain't that frustrating?
 
Split eyelets do happen sometimes, but are easy enough to spot and correct when it happens, or catch on final inspection before shipping. Removing an eyelet and replacing it is not that difficult at all.
 
Mike Sastre said:
Split eyelets do happen sometimes, but are easy enough to spot and correct when it happens, or catch on final inspection before shipping. Removing an eyelet and replacing it is not that difficult at all.
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i agree but as a sheath maker would you send one out with split eyelets? i don't want to offend any sheath makers here but as a customer i feel that sending out sheaths with split rivets is like sending a dull knife and wheres the quality in that?

just saw your work, awesome sheaths!
 
If you read my post carefully that should tell you how I handle things. If I notice a split when setting eyelets, it is replaced. If I miss one, there is always the final inspection to catch it. Several places in the process I run my hands all over everything to see if there is any snags, rough, or sharp parts that will bite body parts and/or clothing, or slow down your draw if it is a SD piece.
 
Would either of you gentlemen care to share some knowledge on how to remove a split eyelet so it could be replaced?
 
I squared off the tip of a pair of pliers so that the very tip had a sharp bite, then polished it as to do minimal if any damage to the sheath. Then just place them perpendicular to the sheath and gradually compress the rolled side of the eyelet. I do not use the pre-finished side, only the split side. Once I've compressed the eyelt enough, it just pushes out of the hole.
 
I use a different tool, but the principle is the same - shape the split side small enough to push through the hole.
 
Thanks guys! That's kind of what I was thinking but was concerned about damaging the sheath. Starting at the split makes sense and slow and easy seems to be the way. I am just starting out with Kydex sheath making, I am going to practice setting eyelets a few times to get the hang of it maybe I should practice removing a few also before starting my first sheath. I am a journeyman carpenter so I understand the importance of details, even minor ones.
 
I use a sharp 1/2" chamfer bit and drill off the back side of the eyelet, I have for years and it works great.
You have to hold pressure on the opposite side and it will get hot but it is way faster than the pliers method .
 
I have no idea what they're actually called, but I use a pair of those wire cutters with the horizontal head. Snip, snip, knock out with a screwdriver.
 
Stoneyarder said:
Dykes? http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/d252.html That is a great idea!
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The ones I have look like these (probably a bit bigger): http://www.watchstraps-batteries.com/horizontal-wire-cutter-pvk-rt34.html

They're just big enough to go around the rolled part (I should probably know the terminology by now). I don't remember where they came from, but I'm guessing any hardware store would have 'em. As long as the bevel is low enough to cut but not low enough to dig into the Kydex though, pretty much any style should work. I've never had any luck drilling. Just end up with the eyelet still in place and a big melted circle for garnishment.
 
I use a SnapOn #5 Ignition Plier (no longer available), laid on its side - crush, crush, pull from the opposite side. Very quick.
 
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