Custom shop ironwood

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EagleIH

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I’m thinking of having a 501 and 503 built by the custom shop. I generally carry my pocket knives just down in my pocket with keys, change, etc. I know the stabilized woods hold up quite well, but can anyone tell me how ironwood would hold up under those conditions since it’s apparently “real” wood? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
 
Iron wood isn't fragile.
Years ago I had a piece of Iron wood root burl.
My (sharp) miter saw barely scratched it. I'm pretty sure a carbide or a diamond tipped saw I didn't have would have cut it.
(so much for making a set of iron wood grips for the 1911 and a butt plate and pistol grip cap for the Marlin 1895SS and 336 I had then. I did manage to get a 2 inch x 1 inch x 0.25 inch (give or take) piece cut off to make an starburst stock inlay for my CVA "Kentucky" rifle using my Dremel with a cut-off wheel.)

I'd guess it will be fine in the pocket with other stuff.
You can always "play it safe" and get or make a pocket sleeve for them. That would also help protect the boaters from getting scratched.
 
Anytime a natural material is used that hasn’t been stabilized it is going to have various results from one piece to another piece. Ironwood is usually very durable and the craftsman working with it will probably select a piece that seems to have good tight grain structure and suitable in size and shape to give the best results. It kinda takes an eye for it and some guys I’ve seen will tap on the piece if it sounds solid and resonates well. I seen some ironwood that was very durable almost like iron.
 
Makael said:
Careful, we had a conversation about powdered steel. Now Iron wood. Lol.
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don't worry Mike, im gonna read more and post less this time.😆 one i dont own any Buck iron wood yet, but wish I did. two, don't have the experience with it. I expect it would scratch up and get pocket worn, but that aint a bad thing.....but don't know never tried. just guessing.
 
EagleIH said:
I generally carry my pocket knives just down in my pocket with keys, change, etc. I know the stabilized woods hold up quite well, but can anyone tell me how ironwood would hold up under those conditions since it’s apparently “real” wood?
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Desert Ironwood is one of the "hardest" woods. The Janka scale, which measures resistance to denting, has it near the top for all of the world's woods and it's probably the hardest in North America—much harder than hickory or black locust and about twice the value of sugar maple. With a specific density of about 1.0 to 1.2 it is also one of our densest woods—it won't float in water. I have a 110 with ironwood done by JAG Knives and it is beautiful. However, even though it's a tough wood, I would never carry it in a pocket without some sort of slip sheath; but then, if had a Maserati I wouldn't leave it parked outside at the curb all of the time.

Bert
110 JAG ironwood Ti 2 copy.jpg
 
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bertl said:
Desert Ironwood is one of the "hardest" woods. The Janka scale, which measures resistance to denting, has it near the top for all of the world's woods and it's probably the hardest in North America—about twice the value of sugar maple. With a specific density of about 1.0 to 1.2 it is also one of our densest woods—it won't float in water. I have a 110 with ironwood done by JAG Knives and it is beautiful. However, even though it's a tough wood, I would never carry it in a pocket without some sort of slip sheath.

Bert
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good info Bert. learning something today. thank you.
 
I didn't remember Ironwood being an option for the 501, but it's there. Hopefully you will get one with some nice figure to it. More noticeably the bolsters will get scratched up. I quit carrying change and keys in same pocket as knife for that reason.
 
Figured Ironwood and Koa are my favorites but if you get a plain piece it's looks like light Ebony.
 
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