Custom slip joint in carbon steel?

sierra11b

sierra11b

Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Messages
622
Thinking of getting another custom but for the first time in carbon for an actual real use edc.

I've been pretty partial to Joel Chamblin over the years and he essentially said he can make it out of a number of stainless or carbon steels. Thinking 1095 or 52100.

Thing is, even though I own some stainless custom knives I always find I'm pocketing a non-custom 1095 slippy for the edge and ease of sharpening.

So why not stick to the non-customs? Well, I want to have joel make me a medium stockman to pay homage to the last and well worn knife my grandfather carried when he passed away -- the western medium stockman with large clip, small clip, and coping blades.

However... I am little apprehensive in having $1k+ knife made of carbon. Are there any stainless steels I'm missing? 440c or that powdered version (I forget the name but joel uses it, too). I own cpm154 and ats34 knives and they're great and all, but not quite as good as 1095 IMHO, at least for keen edge and ease of sharpening.

Perhaps I'm overthinking carbon here if I intend to care for the knife like any other in my collection, but would appreciate thoughts here.

-Eric
 
I've not owned a custom slip joint ... yet, but have various pocket knives in those steels mentioned, except ats34. Nothing wrong with 1095, I like it a lot, but I'm becoming partial to a semi-stainless ... D2. Typically not quite as easy to sharpen as 1095 but tends to hold an edge longer. And unlike a stainless such as CPM154, D2 may/will patina somewhat but also may not/won't rust as easily as 1095.

I'm not as experienced as many who may offer an opinion, but that is just my thought. While you can't go wrong with 1095, I might look at a semi-stainless for consideration too.
 
Last edited:
Hi Eric - My experience in buying custom slip-joints is to basically work with what the maker likes best or uses most - if they're well known for their use of 52100, I get one with that steel; if they work often with both carbon and stainless, I give the edge to stainless…it just depends on who the maker is (for me anyway). It's indeed a hurdle to overcome, investing so much in a material that corrodes more easily, but, in the end, I do think it's mostly psychological - for, as you say, in the end, proper care will ensure a knife's long life.
 
John Lloyd uses 52100 on many of his knives. Most of his knives can be had for a very reasonable price. Vince (VCM) keeps many of his knives in stock. An option could be to get a Lloyd at a great price from Vince and still get your stockman from Joel in his preferred steel choice...the best of both worlds!
 
If you plan on using the knife, carbon steel always carries a risk if you want your custom to look good. I have a custom fixed blade in damascus, which hides use marks well. I clean and oil it at the end of the day, but it still has some "pepper"marks on the spine. I do not care, but for a pearl handled slipjoint, I want stainless steel.
 
You say you would like 1095 steel for ease of sharpening. Are the commonly used stainless steels, such as ATS-34, CPM154, BG42, etc. actually that much harder to sharpen ?
Maybe one (or more) of the sharpening experts could chime in here to answer this.
I think it is important to let the knifemaker choose the steel as heat treatment is more important than steel type in edge holding. The knifemaker should have the heat treatment perfectly 'dialed in' for the steel he uses most often.
kj
 
KJ,

I don't find them harder to sharpen...might take a few more strokes but that's about it. It all comes down to the edge and blade profile also. I have two TA Davisons made from ATS34 and they get superbly sharp and relatively quick. His hollow grinds are nice and thin so the edge is easy to maintain.

And maintenance is where it's at. If you don't let the blade get super dull, you won't see any difference in sharpening between 1095 and the super steels. I like to touch up my blades on the Sharpmaker using the white (fine) rods and then usually give them a quick few strokes on my paddle strop and they'll stay super sharp all of the time and it's not much effort to keep them that way
 
Eric,
When the Earth,Moon & some stars are lined up just so,I could sell you a Lloyd and a Chamblin :) Just sayin'
 
AEB-L or 13C26 are simple stainless steels with enough carbon to harden to 61-62 HRc, but don't form carbides, so they sharpen and hold a very fine edge similar to 1095.
 
Jake, thanks for your post re sharpening stainless vs. 1095. Now the OP can reconsider if his Custom still has to be a non stainless steel.
Or, he could take up VCM3's offer and get a good deal on a Lloyd (non stainless) and a Chamblin (stainless), use them both and see for himself. Vince (VCM3) is a 100% reliable guy who does not mislead people to get a knife sale.
kj
 
I have a custom in 01 and have another in A2 ( makers preference) on order.I like a good patina and choose knives that look with it .Im my opinion, a custom carbon that's been used daily and stained by your life looks better than scratched up stainless . I concede that a custom with patina wouldn't have a very good resale value. I've been known to make poor financial decisions
 
JB in SC said:
I would choose CPM 154 for a multi-blade slip joint.
Click to expand...

I'm no metal expert and don't own any customs, but from what I have seen and read about them this is the way to go. That and 154 CM.

If I had the coin I would shop for nothing else in a custom.

Eric
 
It's your knife, so get it in the steel you like best! My last custom was ordered in o1, which is one of the best carbon steels IMO. 52100 steel is a fantastic steel too, but like a poster above stated if you want the knife to stay "pretty" then stainless would be a better option. Chamblin does a nice job with cpm154, I have one of his knives with that steel. It has sharpened easily for me with my limited skills and takes a nice keen edge.
 
snippy said:
I'm no metal expert and don't own any customs, but from what I have seen and read about them this is the way to go. That and 154 CM.

If I had the coin I would shop for nothing else in a custom.

Eric
Click to expand...

It will take a very high grit hand rubbed finish without smearing (like D2), capable of very fine edges that are easily maintained and has enough chromium to keep it looking nice without a lot of maintenance. I own no custom slip joints that I don't carry. D2 would be fine in a Scotchbrite finish, but it can develop a funky patina.
 
Txjohn said:
I have a custom in 01 and have another in A2 ( makers preference) on order.I like a good patina and choose knives that look with it .Im my opinion, a custom carbon that's been used daily and stained by your life looks better than scratched up stainless . I concede that a custom with patina wouldn't have a very good resale value. I've been known to make poor financial decisions
Click to expand...

Who are you using for the A2 knife if you don't mind?

I'm certainly not opposed stainless and do maintain my knives with various rods, fine sand and jewelers papers, and strops, so that's never been a real problem, but carbon just seems to be slightly better for that hair popping edge. I must say that the idea of a knife that ages uniformly is also appealing... I've been in this game long enough to know what I like in a knife so am confident I wouldn't get hosed by flipping.
 
Perhaps another email to Joel is in order regarding what other steels he's comfortable working with? I hadn't emailed him discussing this topic since my last project with him and do know he was experimenting with steels like CTS XHP, CTS40CP amongst a couple others I cannot recall. Although he seems partial to cpm154 he at least has the expertise and willingness to broaden his steel palate on his own or use the classic carbon steels if so commissioned.

This could be a good opportunity to discuss and list which current makers fancy what...? I recall when PJ Tomes was one of the only guys using 52100. Now it seems a lot of makers are branching out a little... I even saw a couple Kawamura folders for sale using San Mai which floored me as he always uses ats34 like most Japanese makers. Ohta seems to use carbon but only in his friction folders.
 
Last edited:
Joel makes a fine knife and I'm sure you'll be happy with whatever blade steel you choose. A few years back, I had one of his sowbelly knives with stainless blades and was very pleased with it. I suppose the type of blade steel that's best will be whatever you enjoy using. If you're wondering about a particular steel, you might buy a regular production knife with that type of steel and try it out before you choose it for your custom knife.
 
I've also wondered about a san mai slip joint, but i would also suggest

AEB-L or 13c27 - Sharpen like carbon, but are very stain resistant - its secretly my favorite steel (shhh don't tell my carbon knives)

like black mamba said above




You can also etch/parkerize/patina a carbon blade -- I've seen a few really nice etched A2 slipjoints
 
Last edited:
ISKski said:
I've also wondered about a san mai slip joint, but i would also sugges

AEB-L or 13c27 - Sharpen like carbon, but are very stain resistant - its secretly my favorite steel (shhh don't tell my carbon knives)

You can also etch/parkerize/patina a carbon blade -- I've seen a few really nice etched A2 slipjoints
Click to expand...

I'm a chef by trade and actually learned to make knives from slip joint maker Al Warren years ago. I had made a couple out of various steels and had purchased and cut out designs in 13C26 but never finished them and never completed my shop. I always thought it would be a great slip joint steel for the same reasons it would work well for a stainless chefs knife. May need to research this one further...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top