Customized a couple Mules

David Mary

pass the mustard - after you cut it
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Jul 23, 2015
Messages
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I don't know why the stock Mule has a kick that points straight down. I think it is kind of ugly. Also I find the thumb ramp uncomfortable. And I came into contact with a Mule owner who felt the same way, and also wanted better cutting geometry, and a custom handle. So here is what happened.

"Now, since you and I first corresponded about this job, I have acquired the means to put my maker's mark on my work. Because this is not something we discussed, I did not want to presume to do it without running it by you first, but regrinds I do in the future will all get my mark, and I will let people know this in advance. If you would like my maker's mark on your Mules, then I will be happy to oblige, and if not, it's okay with me, and I will not be insulted. Either way, these will both cut much better than before. They were both about .5 mm, or .020" behind the edge, and now the PD#1 is .2 mm, or .008" behind the edge, and the S110V is about .25 mm, or .010 behind the edge. Both thumb ramps are moved slightly forward and rounded for comfort, and the ugly kick on the Mules that sticks straight down has been ground on both for a more visually pleasing aesthetic. Both knives fit snugly in their sheaths. And your naked mule is now clothed in a black and blue handle with ergos that won't quit."

BEFORE
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AFTER

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A private message from a member said:
Hello David,

I just wanted to comment on your decision to mark the blade on a regrind; I have two issues:

First it would be like me, taking a painting someone else did, changing some colors on it, then calling it mine. In the case of the Spyderco you just did, erasing the original painters name and signing my name on it.
As an 'artist' myself, that just isn't happening.
(Just for reference, I would never alter or change any artist's original work)

Second, you run the risk of, especially if you remove the original makers mark, of someone thinking that you ripped off the original makers idea. There is no way to know that it's a regrind.
This also, IMO, lessens the authenticity of the mark on original blades that you made yourself.
In other words, 'is it an original or a regrind?'

I kind of see where you're coming from and what you're trying to do, but it is a grey area there.
For me, authenticity is everything and I think you are blurring a line.
I believe I've seen a makers mark with 'regrind' added to it.

I appreciate your comments. I have to be able to see everyone's perspective, and yours, as an artist, is certainly valuable to me.

The customer actually said he would be honored to have my mark on the blades, and I tried to put it on one of the knives, and it didn't take very well. So I ended up regrinding it again to remove the uneven mark. I have only done it with AEB-L and 1084, and PD#1 proved a little different, and I didn't even have the guts after that to try the S110V.

I seemed to recall that people put their maker's marks on when they regrind, and in particular I was thinking of Tom Krein, whose work I've seen much of. Your message has prompted me to take another look, and yes, you are right that Tom Krein's mark actually says "Regrind". I had forgotten that. For the time being, I will hold off indefinitely on using my maker's mark on regrinds, or at least until I have a mark that reflects it is a regrind. I will update the post I made with this reply. Thank you very kindly for helping with this point of my craftsmanship journey. I appreciate you.
 
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